UC-NRLF 


103    135 


PROBLEMS  IN  FAR 


BLACKBURN 


The  Manual  Arts  Press 


Peoria.  Illinois 


PROBLEMS  IN  FARM  WOODWORK 

FOR  AGRICULTURAL  SCHOOLS,  HIGH  SCHOOLS, 
INDUSTRIAL  SCHOOLS,  AND  COUNTRY  SCHOOLS 


By  SAMUEL  A.  BLACKBURN 

DIKBCTUH   oi-   MANUAL  TRAINING,  OAK    CLIFF  HIGH   SCHOOL,  DALLAS,  TEXAS 

Formerly  Teacher  of  Woodworking,  Forging  and  Mechanical  Drawing 

in  the   Agricultural  High  School,  Spring  Valley,  Minnesota, 

and  Supervisor  of  the  Teaching  of  Woodworking 

in  the  Associated   1'uui    Schools 


THE  MANUAL  ARTS  PRESS 

PEORIA,    ILLINOIS 


n 


> 


CorvmcHT,  191S 

SAMUEL  A.  BLACKBURN 

THIRD  EDITION  1919 


PREFACE. 


IN  many  states  laws  have  been  passed,  requiring  the 
teaching  of  industrial  subjects  in  all  schools  within  the 
state.  In  many  instances  state  funds  are  provided  to  aid 
this  work  in  the  high  schools  of  farming  communities,  and 
in  rural  schools.  The  trend  of  the  manual  training  courses 
in  such  schools  is  toward  practical  work,  and  toward  cor- 
relation with  agriculture. 

In  many  of  these  agricultural  high  schools,  short  courses 
are  given  during  the  four  winter  months  for  the  benefit  of 
those  young  men  and  women  on  the  farm  who  have  found 
it  impossible  to  attend  school  thruout  the  year.  To  the 
young  men  in  these  classes,  the  practical  work  that  can  be 
given  in  the  manual  training  courses  appeals  strongly.  In 
many  cases,  boys  become  enough  interested  in  work  of  this 
character  to  procure  sets  of  tools  for  use  in  their  own  shops 
on  the  farm.  With  the  understanding  of  the  use  of  tools 
and  of  terms  used  in  woodworking  such  as  are  learned  in 
the  manual  training  classes,  and  with  the  help  of  problems 
such  as  are  offered  in  this  book,  these  boys  can  work  out 
many  things  by  themselves  and  become  proficient  in  this 
kind  of  work. 

It  is  not  intended  that  this  book  be  used  as  a  text,  altho 
by  selecting  problems  from  it  an  efficient  course  of  study 


could  be  worked  out  by  the  instructor.  The  aim  of  this  book 
is  to  place  before  the  teacher  and  pupil  the  best  forms,  the 
best  construction  and  the  correct  dimensions  of  objects 
that  can  be  correlated  with  work  in  agriculture. 

There  may  be  a  tendency  toward  careless  work  by  some 
pupils  in  problems  as  large  as  these,  and  it  must  be  im- 
pressed well  upon  the  mind  of  each  student  that  there  is 
great  need  for  accuracy  in  all  these  problems,  else  the  edu- 
cational purpose  of  the  work  will  be  defeated. 

In  getting  together  these  problems  the  author  has  con- 
sulted successful  farmers,  fruit  growers,  bee  raisers,  gar- 
deners, carpenters,  and  other  workmen  in  order  to  get  the 
best  type  of  each  problem,  and  to  make  it  simple,  practical, 
and  the  best  fitted  for  its  particular  use.  He  has  designated 
kinds  of  material  that  may  be  bought  from  any  lumber  yard 
and  hardware  store,  and  has  used  only  the  commercial  sizes 
of  lumber. 

Suggestions  for  a  few  of  these  problems  have  been  taken 
from  bulletins  issued  by  the  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture,  the  Manual  Training  Magazine,  a  Minnesota 
University  bulletin,  and  a  Kansas  State  Agricultural  College 
bulletin.  The  author  is  most  indebted,  however,  to  the 
students  who  have  worked  with  him  during  past  years. 

S.  A.  BLACKBURN. 


423691 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


I.  SHOP  PROBLEMS.  PLATE 

Sack  Holder    1 

Nail  Box  1 

Tool  Carriers  (two  types)   2 

Saw  Horses   (three  types)    3 

Handles   4 

Hammer;  Pick;  Sledge;  File;  Vise. 

Drawing   Board    5 

Miter   Box    5 

Tool  Chest  (small)   6 

Tool  Chest  7 

Nail   Cabinet   8 

Screw  Cabinet  8 

Work   Bench    9 

II.  POULTRY  PROBLEMS. 

Row  of  Nests  for  Laying  Hens  10 

Nest  for  a  Sitting  Hen  10 

A-shaped  Coop  for  Hen  and  Chickens  11 

Box    Coop    11 

Chicken   Feeder    12 

Watering  Trough  12 

Oats  Sprouter  12 

Chicken    Crate    13 

Egg  Tester  13 

III.  SEED  CORN  PROBLEMS. 

Seed  Corn  Testing  Tray  14 

Frame  for  Testing  Tray  14 

Corn  Tray  for  Exhibition  Purposes   IS 

Seed  Corn  Crate 15 

Seed  Corn  Rack  16 

Cabinet  for  Seeds  and  Small  Grain  17 

Seed  Corn  Sled   18 

IV.  YARD  PROBLEMS. 

Bird   Houses    19 

Chickadee ;     Tree    Swallow ;     House    Wren ;     Martin 
House. 


PLATK 

Frame  for  Hammock  20 

Gates    21 

Farm  Gates;  Garden  or  Yard  Gate  (two  types). 

A  Flight  of  Steps   22 

Sawbuck    23 

Rabbit   Trap    23 

Porch  Swing  24 

Dog  House   25 

V.  HOUSE  PROBLEMS. 

Bench    26 

Bread  Cutting  Board   26 

Swing   Board    26 

Fly  Trap    27 

Ironing  Boards  (two  types)   28 

Door  Screen   29 

Window  Screen   29 

Kitchen  Table  30 

Kitchen  Sink   31 

Kitchen  Cabinet  32 

VI.  GARDEN  PROBLEMS. 

Tomato  Trellis   33 

Trellis  for  Small  Vine  33 

Row  Marker   33 

Shrub  Label  33 

Transplanter    33 

Step   Ladder    34 

Fruit   Picking  Ladder    34 

Potato  Marker   35 

Garden  Marker  36 

Cold  Frame  37 

VII.  STOCK  PROBLEMS. 

Hog  Troughs  38 

Grain  Trough  for  Feeding  Sheep  39 

Feeding  Trough  for  Stock  40 

Unloading  Chute    41 

Individual  Hog  Cot   42 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


VIII.    BARN  YARD  PROBLEMS.  PLATE  IX.       BEE  RAISING  PROBLEMS.  PLATE 

Milking  Stools  (four  types)  43  Bee  Hive 54 

Evener  44  Bee  Hive  Details  55 

Singletree    44  Bee  Hive  for  the  Amateur 56 

Neckyoke    44 

Wagon  Box  45  x.        CONCRETE  FORMS. 

Wagon  Box  Details  46  Concrete  Mixing  Box  57 

Spring  Seat  47  Form  for  Concrete  Post  57 

Wagon  Jacks  (two  types)   48  Concrete  Form  for  Silo  Foundation  58 

Sand  Box  49  Details  of  Silo  Form  Construction  59 

Hog  Coop  (to  fit  wagon  box)   50  . 

Hay  Frame  51  j^j        OTHER  PROBLEMS 

Pigeon  House   .........    52  Mouse  Proof  Cage  for  Agricultural  Exhibits .  .60 

Brush  and  Curry-comb  Cabinet  for  Barn  53 

Scales  and  a  Convenient  Case  for  Weighing  and  Sampl- 
ing Milk  53 


WORKING    DRAWINGS 

AND 

WORKING  DIRECTIONS 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


SACK  HOLDER. 

Purpose.  This  sack  holder  will  appeal  to  the  boy  for  its 
great  convenience  in  many  ways.  It  not  only  supports  the 
sack  in  an  upright  position,  but  also  holds  open  the  mouth 
of  the  sack  making  it  easy  to  fill  without  an  extra  helper. 

Material. 

One  piece  I^"xl0"xl5>4",  oak  or  some  heavy  wood. 
One  piece  ^"x8"x6'8"  pine. 
Twenty-two  1W  No.  9  screws. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  lJ4"xlO"xlS",  for  base. 
Two  pieces  54"x8"x3'3",   for  uprights. 
Two  pieces  54"xl>2"x8",  for  cross  cleats  at  top. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  compass,  pencil,  try-square,  wood 
file,  screw-driver,  brace  and  372"  twist  drill. 

Directions.  Finish  the  base  to  dimensions  given  in  the 
drawing.  Lay  off  the  two  upright  pieces.  (This  problem 
should  be  constructed  in  such  a  way  as  to  keep  the  weight 
as  much  as  possible  at  the  bottom,  hence  the  cutting  away 
of  the  uprights,  leaving  just  enough  strength  to  support  a 
full  sack.  Shape  the  uprights  according  to  the  drawing, 
sawing  the  curves  with  a  coping  saw  and  finishing  the 
middle  straight  part  with  a  rip  saw.  Use  part  of  this  wood 
sawed  out  for  the  cross  cleats  at  the  top. 

Assembly.  Put  on  the  cleats  at  the  top,  using  three 
screws  in  each.  Fasten  uprights  to  base,  using  eight  screws 
on  each  side.  A  number  of  screws  are  necessary  at  this 
point,  since  the  holder  is  purposely  made  a  little  wide,  al- 
lowing spring  at  the  top  to  hold  the  mouth  of  the  sack 
apart  with  a  firm  grip. 

NAIL  BOX. 

Purpose.  The  nail  box  is  one  of  the  best  problems  that 
can  be  used,  being  suitable  for  any  community.  Many  of 


these  boxes  have  been  devised,  but  usually  they  are  too 
small.    This  one  is  large  enough,  and  convenient. 

A  knife  box  may  be  designed  from  the  same  drawing  by 
leaving  out  the  partitions  and  making  the  base  8"xl2"  and 
the  depth  of  the  box  2\". 

Material. 

One  piece  J4"xl0"xl6",  pine  or  basowood. 

One  piece  J4"x8"x2'10". 

One  piece  J4"x6"xl5j4". 

A  number  of  6d.  finishing  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  y2"xW"x\6"  for  base. 
Two  pieces  54"x3}4"xl6"  for  sides. 
Two  pieces  }4"x3j4"x9"  for  ends. 
One  piece  54"x5^"xl5"  for  handle. 
Three  pieces  l/i"x3%"x4ya"  for  partitions. 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  rule,  pencil,  try-square,  brace,  $"  bit, 
chisel,  hammer  and  wood  file. 

Directions.  Make  the  sides,  ends,  and  partitions  from 
the  8"  board.  Rip  the  board  thru  the  middle  the  entire 
length  and  lay  out  and  finish  pieces  to  dimensions  given  in 
bill  of  stock.  Finish  the  base  board  to  correct  dimensions. 
To  make  the  handle  partition,  plane  the  f"  piece  to  J"  x 
5£"  x  15".  With  a  pencil  gage  draw  a  line  on  both  sides  of 
the  piece  \\"  from  the  edge.  Locate  the  center  of  this  line, 
also  locate  point  2"  on  each  side  of  the  center.  Set  compass 
to  -jV'  radius.  Put  the  lead  point  on  the  points  last  found 
and  the  compass  point  in  the  line,  and  draw  a  semi-circle. 
Repeat  at  opposite  end.  Connect  semi-circles  with  straight 
lines.  To  shape  handle  partition,  measure  in  5£"  from  each 
end,  and  down  \\"  from  the  same  point.  Connect  the  points 
just  made.  Bore  out  the  handle  hole  with  the  |"  bit,  and 
chisel  the  wood  remaining.  Saw  and  plane  to  the  slant  lines. 
Round  off  sharp  edges  of  handle  with  plane  and  wood  file. 

Assembly.  Nail  first  the  sides  to  base,  then  nail  in  the 
ends.  Nail  in  the  handle  partition,  then  the  cross  partitions. 
These  may  be  arranged  to  suit  the  workman. 


PLATE  1 


SACK:  HOLDEIL 


NAIL  Box. 


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10 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


TOOL  CARRIER. 

Purpose.  These  tool  carriers  are  excellent  for  use  as  tool 
receptacles,  as  well  as  for  carrying  tools  from  one  place  to 
another.  The  first  carrier  is  made  low  so  that  it  will  easily 
slide  under  the  seat  of  a  buggy.  It  is  somewhat  difficult  of 
construction,  there  being  several  hopper  joints.  The  second 
is  perhaps  more  easily  carried,  as  it  may  be  held  in  several 
different  positions,  or  two  men  may  each  take  an  end.  Both 
carriers  will  serve  the  same  general  purpose. 

No.  1. 
Material. 

One  piece  ^"x8"x2'9"  pine. 

One  piece  ^"x8"x3'l". 

One  piece  K"x6"x8'6". 

One  piece  I%"x2"x3". 

A  number  of  6d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  H"x8"x2'9"  for  bottom. 
Two  pieces  i^"x5^"x3'2"  for  sides. 
Two  pieces  yI"x5l/2"x'l2"  for  ends. 
One  piece  24"x7^"3''/2"  for  handle  partition. 
One  piece  Ij4"x2"x3"  for  saw  holder. 

•Tools.  Saw,  plane,  T-bevel,  brace,  1"  bit,  rule,  pencil, 
compass,  chisel,  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Set  T-bevel  on  the  square  at  an  angle  of  5" 
to  3".  (See  the  illustration  at  the  left  upper  corner  of  the 
plate.)  Use  this  angle  in  making  all  the  joints.  Make  the 
bottom  board  2'8"  long  plus  the  length  added  by  beveling 
the  ends.  Plane  the  side  pieces  to  5£"  wide  and  bevel  the 
edges  as  shown  in  the  end  view  of  the  drawing.  Make  the 
upper  edge  of  the  side  pieces  3'2"  long;  from  these  longest 
points  draw  lines  at  an  angle  with  the  T-bevel,  and  saw. 
Make  the  ends  in  the  same  manner.  It  is  best  to  nail  the  box 
part  together  before  making  the  handle  partition.  The 


longest  inside  measurement  of  the  carrier  is  3'^".  Lay  off 
this  length  at  a  point  4J"  from  the  lower  edge  of  the  handle 
partition.  Using  the  T-bevel  mark  the  slant,  and  saw. 
Notice  that  the  opening  in  the  handle  is  9"  long.  This  al- 
lows the  carrier  to  balance  well  even  though  the  tools  are 
heavier  at  one  end.  Lay  out  the  opening  for  the  handle 
\\"  from  the  upper  edge.  With  a  1"  bit  bore  out  the  wood, 
and  finish  with  a  chisel.  Taper  the  handle  as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  To  make  the  saw  holder,  use  a  saw  that  cuts  a 
small  kerf.  Carry  the  saws  teeth  up. 

No.  2. 
Material. 

One  piece  ^"xl2"x2  6*A"  pine. 

One  piece  X2"xlO"x2'6^". 

One  piece  ^"x^x^". 

One  piece  ^"x7"x2'61/^". 

A  number  of  6d.  common  nails  and  6d.  finishing  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  pupil  will  make  out  his  own  bill  of 
stock. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  chisel,  rule,  pencil,  gauge  and  ham- 
mer. 

Directions.  The  construction  of  this  carrier  is  simple, 
the  end  pieces  being  the  only  ones  that  require  any  work 
other  than  sawing  and  planing.  To  make  the  ends,  mark 
points  on  each  edge  4£"  from  the  bottom.  Find  the  middle 
of  the  upper  end,  and  mark  points  1"  on  each  side  of  the 
middle.  Connect  the  two  sets  of  points  which  mark  the 
slant  on  the  ends.  Make  the  notch  in  the  middle  of  the 
upper  end  so  that  it  will  allow  the  handle  to  slip  down  snug 
and  tight.  Saw  the  notch  to  exactly  f"  wide  and  1$"  deep, 
and  chisel  out  the  piece.  Saw  off  the  corners  leaving  a  little 
space  for  planing  a  smooth  surface.  Round  off  the  sharp 
corners  at  the  top  and  on  the  handle,  but  leave  the  ends  of 
the  handle  with  sharp  edges  to  fit  into  the  notches. 


ILLUSTRATION 

A  T-DEVEU  AT  A.  GIVEN  ANCLE 


No.i 


V    

7' 

1 

|             M  SAW  HOLDER- 

\ 

./  

\ 

1 

12 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


SAW  HORSES. 

Purpose.  Saw  horses  are  needed  wherever  woodworking 
of  any  kind  is  done.  They  are  used  also  by  painters,  paperers, 
plasterers,  brick  layers, — in  fact,  every  tradesman  has  use  for 
a  set  of  saw  horses.  Saw  horse  No.  1  is  especially  good  for 
a  cabinet  maker  or  one  who  repairs  furniture.  The  cotton 
and  canvas  pad  does  not  mar  the  wood  in  fine  cabinet  work, 
nor  the  finish  of  any  article  of  furniture  that  is  being  re- 
paired. Horse  No.  2  is  light  and  easily  moved,  and  es- 
pecially good  for  light  material ;  while  No.  3  is  made  for 
holding  heavy  timbers.  The  measurements  in  each  instance 
may  be  changed  to  suit  any  special  or  individual  need.  A 
horse  used  by  a  painter  is  often  made  six  to  eight  inches 
wide  at  the  top  with  cross  pieces  nailed  on  to  the  legs  to 
make  a  ladder.  This  wide  top  affords  a  platform  for  the 
painter  to  stand  on.  Carpenters  sometimes  make  these 
horses  six  or  seven  feet  high  with  the  ladder  part  attached, 
and  use  them  for  working  on  low  buildings,  using  them  in- 
stead of  ladders  and  staging. 

No.  1. 

Material.     Pine,  basswood,  or  any  light  wood. 
Pine,  basswood,  or  any  light  wood. 
One  piece  H"x8"x8'. 
One  piece  ^"x6"x24". 
One  piece  %"x4"x!9". 
One  strip  of  canvas  13"x3'10". 
One  strip  of  canvas  15"x3'10". 
Two  dozen  \yf  flat  head  screws. 
Some  cotton  or  excelsior. 
A  number  of  tacks  and  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
Four  pieces  %"x4"x2'3"  for  legs. 
Two  pieces  %"x4"x3'6j4"  for  stretchers. 
Two  pieces  %"x6"xl2"  for  ends. 
Two  pieces  ^"x2"x!9"  for  end  braces. 


Tools.  Saw,  plane,  rule,  pencil,  try-square,  T-bevel, 
screw-driver  gage  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Set  the  T-bevel  on  the  square  at  an  angle  of 
3"  to  8".  (See  illustration  on  Plate  2.)  This  angle  is  used 
to  lay  out  the  bevel  on  the  legs,  also  the  bevel  of  the  upper 
edges  of  the  stretchers  and  the  ends  and  braces.  Lay  out 
the  bevel  on  each  leg  and  piece,  and  saw  and  plane  to  the 
dimensions  given  in  the  bill  of  stock. 

Assembly.  Put  the  stretchers  on  each  pair  of  legs  with 
screws.  Nail  on  the  ends  and  lower  braces.  Screws  may  be 
used  in  the  end  pieces,  but  nails  will  do  very  well.  Before 
putting  on  the  lower  piece  of  canvas  be  sure  that  no  sharp 
edges  are  underneath  the  canvas  to  make  it  wear  easily. 
Stretch  the  canvas  over  tightly  and  tack  securely ;  put  in 
the  cotton  or  excelsior  and  tack  on  the  top  piece  of  canvas 
as  shown  in  the  detail  in  the  drawing. 

No.  2. 

Material.     Pine. 

One  piece  2"x4"x3'. 
One  piece  %"x8"x5'6". 
Thirty-two  V/z"  flat  head  screws. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  2"x4"x3'  for  stretcher. 
Four  pieces  Wx4"x2'2l/2"  for  legs. 
Two  pieces  ^"x4"x!3j4"  for  braces. 

Tools.  Saws,  rule,  plane,  pencil,  try-square,  screw-driver, 
T-bevel,  chisel  and  mallet. 

Directions.  Saw  and  plane  the  different  pieces  to  sizes 
indicated  by  bill  of  stock.  Set  the  T-bevel  at  an  angle  of 
1"  to  6".  Measure  in  4"  from  each  end  of  the  2"  x  4"  piece 
and  mark  straight  across  the  top  side  with  the  try-square. 
At  each  end  of  this  line,  drop  down  on  the  sides  of  the  2x4 
using  the  given  angle  of  the  T-bevel.  Draw  lines  4"  further 


PLATE -3 


CANVAS 


COTTON  OK^ 
EXCELSIOR^ 


U      v 


r4i 


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S 


//         '?         \\ 

^M\J 

I 2- 1         L4-J 


Tfo.l 

—  3-8"  • 


SAW  HOLSE.S 


H PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 

in  on  the  2x4  and  parallel  to  the  lines  just  drawn.    Set  the  No.  3. 

gage  to  iV  and  ga&e  between  the  lines  on  the  top  side,  Material.     Pine, 

leaving  the  lower  edge  flush,  as  shown  in  the  detail.    Saw  One  piece  4"x4"x3'6". 

and  chisel  out  the  triangles  thus  formed.    Bevel  off  opposite  g£  £££  %$£& 
ends  of  the  legs  to  make  them  stand  level  on  the  floor.    Lay 

out  and  saw  the  brace  for  each  end  of  the  saw  horse.    Bevel  Assembly.    This  problem  is  so  much  like  saw  horse  No. 

the  upper  edge  to  make  it  fit  up  under  the  stretcher.  2  that  the  bl11  of  stock  and  directions  will  almost  be  a 

repetition.    The  pupil  with  a  little  thought,  can  make  out 

Assembly.    Fasten  the  legs  with  2"  screws,  using  four  or  his  own  bill  of  stock  and  manner  of  procedure.    If  all  points 

five  screws  for  each  leg.    Also  fasten  on  the  end  braces  with  are  not  clear,  then  the  directions  for  No.  2  may  be  resorted 

screws.  to. 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


HANDLES. 

Purpose.  The  ability  to  make  handles  proves  most  useful 
when  a  handle  is  broken  and  work  must  stop  until  some 
one  goes  to  town  after  a  new  one.  These  handles  are  the 
types  of  the  kinds  used  around  a  shop.  Wood  for  handles 
should  be  tough,  not  brittle,  and  close  grained.  Ash  is 
sometimes  used,  and  sometimes  a  good  piece  of  willow  can 
be  found.  Second  growth  hickory  is  the  best  material  for 
handles.  By  this  we  mean  the  quick  growing  sprouts  that 
come  up  around  the  stump  after  the  old  tree  is  cut  down. 
Slow  growing  hickory  is  more  brittle  and  has  more  knots, 
making  it  less  adaptable. 


Material. 

One  piece  1 

Bill  of  Stock. 

One  piece  '. 


Hammer  Handles. 


hickory. 
Finished  dimensions. 


Tools.  Saw,  plane,  try-square,  rule,  gage,  spokeshave, 
and  wood  file. 

Directions.  Square  up  material  to  dimensions  given  in 
bill  of  stock.  On  wide  surfaces,  beginning  5£"  from  one 
end,  draw  slanting  lines,  tapering  from  1|"  at  the  5£"  mark, 
to  1^"  at  the  other  end,  and  plane  to  slanting  lines.  On  nar- 
row surfaces,  from  the  same  point,  draw  slanting  lines  taper- 
ing from  1£"  to  f"  at  the  small  end,  and  plane  to  lines.  With 
spokeshave  shave  the  small  part  of  the  handle  to  1TV"  in 
width  and  \"  in  thickness,  bevel  corners  with  spokeshave 
so  that  handle  will  be  eight-sided,  after  which  remove  each 
sharp  edge,  making  the  handle  elliptical  in  cross  section 
from  large  end  to  within  3"  of  small  end.  The  small  end, 
which  is  to  go  thru  the  eye  of  the  hammer  head,  should  be 


left  nearly  rectangular,  with  corners  slightly  rounded. 
Smooth  the  handle  with  fine  sandpaper  and  put  on  a  thin 
coat  of  orange  shellac  or  linseed  oil.  The  boy  should  be 
encouraged  to  make  a  handle  to  fit  some  hammer  at  home, 
changing  dimensions  given  in  drawing  if  necessary.  In 
fitting  handle  to  hammer  head  the  small  end  will  probably 
have  to  be  reduced  in  size.  This  can  best  be  done  with  a 
wood  file.  When  the  small  end  has  been  driven  well  thru 
the  eye  of  the  hammer  head,  it  should  be  split  with  a  chisel 
and  a  sharp  hardwood  wedge  driven  in,  spreading  the  end 
so  that  the  hammer  head  will  not  fly  off  when  being  used. 

Sledge  Handle. 
Material. 

One  piece  I?^"xl.>4"x2'8"  hickory. 


Bill  of  Stock. 

One  piece  I 


Finished  dimensions. 
'4"xl1/4"x2'8". 

Tools.    Same  as  for  hammer  handle. 


Directions.  Make  the  sledge  handle  with  the  same  opera- 
tions as  are  used  in  making  the  hammer  handle. 

Pick  Handle. 
Material. 

One  piece  2^"x3i4"x3'  hickory. 

Bill  of  Stock. 

One  piece  2"x3"x2'll^". 

Tools.    Same  as  for  hammer  handle. 

Directions.  Same  as  for  hammer  and  sledge  handles. 
The  difference  between  this  and  the  foregoing  handles  is 
readily  seen  to  be  in  the  tool  end  of  the  handle.  The  sledge 
and  hammer  handles  were  made  small  to  go  thru  the  eye  of 


16 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


the  hammer  head,  while  the  pick  handle  is  largest  at  the 
pick  end.  The  pick  is  slipped  on  from  the  back,  thus  needing 
no  wedge,  the  constant  driving  and  pulling  keeping  the 
pick  in  place. 

Vise  Handle. 
Material. 

One  piece  %"x%"xl6;4"  hickory  or  oak. 
One  dowel  J4"x4". 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  ^"x^"x!6". 
Two  dowels  y2"xllA". 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  try-square,  rule,  gage,  wood  file, 
brace,  \"  bit,  and  compass. 

Directions.  Plane  material  to  dimensions  given  in  bill 
of  stock.  Draw  a  center  line  and  measure  in  If"  from  each 
end  and  mark.  On  these  points  bore  \"  holes.  Draw  cir- 
cles on  each  end  with  the  compass  set  at  §"  radius.  Plane 
handle  to  eight  sided  figure,  then  sixteen  sided  figure  and 
finish  off  edges  with  wood  file.  Round  ends  of  dowels. 


Insert  a  dowel  in  one  end  and  put  in  a  small  brad  to  hold  in 
place.  Slip  the  handle  thru  vise  before  inserting  the  other 
dowel. 

File  Handles. 
Material. 

One  piece  l^"xlJ4"xl2"  hickory. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  l"xl 


Tools.  Saw,  plane,  compass,  rule,  gage,  spokeshave,  wood 
file,  and  small  gimlet. 

Directions.  Square  up  material  to  dimensions  given  in 
bill  of  stock.  Draw  a  regular  eight  sided  figure  at  each  end, 
and  plane  to  these  lines.  Draw  a  circle  at  each  end  of  \" 
diameter,  and  beginning  back  from  end  3",  shave  down  with 
spokeshave  to  circle.  Round  off  sharp  edges  with  wood 
file.  Bore  a  small  gimlet  hole  in  each  end.  Saw  the  piece 
into  two  equal  parts,  and  round  off  the  newly  made  ends 
with  the  file. 


PLATE  4 


HANDLES 


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18 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


DRAWING  BOARD. 

Purpose.  A  drawing  board  is  a  useful  article  in  almost 
any  trade  or  profession.  If  its  use  were  better  understood 
it  would  be  a  much  more  common  article.  It  can  be  used 
for  many  things  about  the  home  as  well  as  the  office,  not 
only  for  drawing  plans,  but  for  lettering  work,  design  work, 
etc.  It  always  furnishes  a  smooth  flat  surface  which  makes 
it  very  desirable. 

This  drawing  board  is  one  of  the  best  types  altho  more 
difficult  of  construction  than  some  others.  The  wedge 
shaped  piece  that  has  been  pushed  into  the  opening  made 
for  it  allows  the  face  of  the  drawing  board  to  swell  and 
shrink  and  yet  keep  its  straight,  smooth  surface.  More  com- 
mon types,  the  joints  of  which  are  shown  at  A  and  B,  are 
more  easily  constructed,  but  not  so  good  as  the  one  shown 
here.  Detail  A  shows  the  end  of  the  board  with  a  groove 
plowed  out,  and  a  lengthwise  strip  with  a  tongue  fitting  the 
groove,  glued  to  the  end  grain.  Detail  B,  the  most  easily 
constructed  board,  is  merely  the  flat  drawing  surface  with 
two  strips  screwed  onto  the  back. 

Material    Extra  clear  white  pine. 
One  piece  %"xlO"x6'6". 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

Eight  pieces  J4"x2I/£"x24"  for  face  of  board. 
Two  pieces  f4"x2^"x20"  for  strips. 

Tools.  Saws,  jointer  plane,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  gage, 
and  chisel. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  The  bill  of  stock  calls  for 
eight  pieces  2\"  wide.  This  width  is  not  absolutely  neces- 
sary. Narrower  pieces  are  even  better.  See  that  the  end 
grain  in  each  piece  runs  opposite  to  the  one  just  before  it, 
as  shown  in  the  side  view  of  the  drawing.  Join  enough 
pieces  so  that  when  completed  the  board  will  be  20"  wide. 


Before  gluing,  the  pieces  should  be  about  25"  or  26"  long 
so  as  to  allow  for  errors  in  planing  and  assembling.  Glue 
the  pieces  together.  When  the  glue  has  set  lay  off  and 
mark  the  opening  for  the  wedge-shaped  strips.  This  groove 
may  be  made  with  a  special  plane  used  for  the  purpose  or 
by  sawing  down  almost  to  dimensions  and  carefully  chisel- 
ing the  remainder.  Bevel  the  strips  and  push  into  the 
opening  made  for  them. 

MITER  BOX. 

Purpose.  The  miter  box  is  an  almost  indispensable  article 
for  the  shop.  Many  large  expensive  miter  boxes  are  now 
offered  on  the  market,  but  as  a  rule  they  are  not  so  depend- 
able after  they  become  worn  as  the  miter  box  here  shown. 
When  this  box  is  worn  out  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  make  a 
new  box.  This  box  has  an  advantage  in  that  it  can  be  car- 
ried in  an  ordinary  tool-box.  You  will  notice  the  board 
projecting  \"  below  the  bottom.  This  forms  a  catch  to 
hold  against  the  edge  of  the  bench  or  a  place  for  a  vise  to 
hold. 

Material.    Pine. 

One  piece  Wx4"x20". 
One  piece  ^"x6"x3'4". 
Ten  V/2"  No.  9  flat  head  screws. 

Bill  of  Stock.    To  be  made  by  pupil. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  brace,  \" 
bit,  and  screw-driver. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  Finish  pieces  to  dimensions 
given  in  the  drawing.  Fasten  with  screws  in  about  the 
positions  shown.  Especial  care  must  be  taken  to  keep 
everything  straight  and  square  as  the  correctness  of  the 
miter  depends  upon  this.  Measure  in  5J"  from  one  end,  and 
draw  a  line  straight  across  with  the  square.  Measure  over 


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20 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


5i"  farther,  and  square  across;  again  measure  over  4J", 
and  square  across.  With  the  square,  drop  lines  down  from 
each  of  these  points  on  the  outside  of  the  box.  Draw  the 
diagonals  between  the  first  and  second  lines.  Care  must  be 
tPken  in  drawing  all  these  lines,  as  a  very  small  mistake 
will  cause  an  error  in  the  miter.  Saw  out  these  lines  care- 
fully. 

SMALL  TOOL  CHEST. 

Purpose.  This  chest  is  designed  for  a  mechanic's  tool 
chest  that  has  to  be  moved  about  often.  It  is  made  small 
enough  so  that  a  handle  may  be  put  on  the  side,  and  the 
chest  carried  much  the  same  as  a  suit  case,  altho  handles 
may  be  put  at  each  end  for  carrying  heavy  tools.  The  ad- 
vantage of  this  chest  is  that  it  takes  up  little  room  and  it  is 
easy  to  transport. 

Material.    Pine  or  basswood. 
One  piece  ^"x8"x16". 
One  piece  5^"x8"x8'. 
One  pair  2"  butt  hinges. 
One  lock. 

Five  and  one-half  feet  of  ^"xVA"  iron. 

A  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  common  nails,  also  some  screws  or 
rivets. 


Bill  of  Stock.  The  pupil  may  make  out  his  own  bill  of 
stock  by  referring  to  the  drawing. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  brace,  drill 
for  holes  for  screws,  countersink,  chisel,  screw-driver,  gage, 
and  hammer. 

Directions.  Glue  two  8"  pieces  together  for  the  top,  also 
two  for  the  bottom.  Work  all  pieces  to  dimensions  shown 
in  the  drawing. 

Assembly.  Make  the  bottom  part  first.  Nail  the  sides 
and  ends  together,  and  then  nail  on  the  bottom.  Repeat 
this  for  the  top  section.  Nail  together  the  till.  Nail  in  the 
two  cross  strips  for  the  till  to  rest  on,  4f"  from  the  top  of 
the  lower  box.  Hinge  the  lid  at  the  back,  and  put  in  the 
lock  at  the  front.  Cut  and  bend  pieces  of  flat  iron  to  proper 
lengths,  lay  out  and  bore  the  holes  at  convenient  places,  and 
fasten  on  either  with  screws  or  rivets. 


PLATE  C 


TILL 


SMALL  TOOL  CHEST 

MAY  BE  PUT  AT  A'  AND  THE.  CHEST 
CARK.IEP  As  SUIT  CASE 


-PUT  0/1  5TIUF.5  VlTH  SCREWS  Ox. 


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22 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


TOOL  CHEST. 

Purpose.  The  first  thing  a  boy  or  man  thinks  of  when  he 
has  secured  some  tools  is  a  chest  in  which  to  keep  them. 
The  chest  must  be  long  enough  to  hold  saws  and  have 
space  enough  at  the  bottom  for  the  more  bulky  tools,  such  as 
planes  and  braces.  It  must  have  tills  at  the  top  to  accom- 
modate small  tools  that  are  difficult  to  find  when  put  in 
the  bottom  with  the  larger  tools.  The  till  of  the  chest  may 
be  made  the  size  of  the  upper  part  of  the  chest,  but  this 
necessitates  the  removal  of  the  till  to  get  at  the  tools  in  the 
bottom.  The  ordinary  way  of  making  tills  is  to  have  them 
about  one-half  or  two-thirds  the  width  of  the  chest.  They 
are  made  to  slide  backward  and  forward,  enabling  the 
owner  to  get  at  tools  below  without  lifting  out  the  tills. 
The  bottom  one  may  be  made  stationary  and  the  upper  one 
movable.  Some  chests  are  made  with  only  one  till.  This 
chest  is  designed  to  meet  all  requirements.  The  tills  are 
made  8"  wide.  An  important  requirement  of  a  chest  is 
that  it  shall  be  strong  enough  to  withstand  hard  usage. 
To  add  to  its  strength  and  durability  a  metal  top  is  put  on 
and  metal  corners  are  used  at  the  bottom.  Screws  are  used 
to  a  great  extent  instead  of  nails. 

Material. 

One  piece  J4"x8"xl6'. 

One  piece  J4"xl2"x8'. 

One  piece  J4"x8"xl0'. 

One  piece  !/2"x8"x8'. 

One  piece  No.  26  gage  galvanized  iron  18"x2'll  . 

Four  pieces  No.  26  gage  galvanized  iron  2"x4". 

One  pair  3"  butt  hinges. 

One  lock. 

Five  dozen  1J4"  No.  9  screws. 

A  number  of  tacks  and  8d.  finishing  nails. 


Bill  of  Stock.  The  pupil  will  make  out  his  own  bill  of 
stock. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  miter  box,  chisel,  screw-driver, 
brace,  and  set  of  twist  drills,  tinner's  shears,  mallet,  try- 
square,  square,  rule,  pencil,  and  gage. 

Directions.  Cut  all  pieces  to  dimensions  shown  in  the 
drawing.  Glue  together  two  8"  boards  for  the  top  and 
bottom  pieces  and  saw  to-  dimensions.  Lay  off  and  cut 
rabbet  joint  as  shown  in  detail  of  corner.  Plane  f"  chamfer 
on  pieces  marked  A,  B,  C,  D,  but  do  not  miter  corners  at 
this  time.  Plow  pieces  E  and  F  to  one-half  the  thickness  of 
the  pieces  and  \"  deep  so  as  to  let  in  the  ¥'  top  piece.  Do 
not  miter.  Plow  out  piece  G  leaving  f"  at  the  bottom  for 
a  support  for  the  lower  till,  or  use  |"  piece  and  nail  on  a 
cleat  below. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  sides  and  ends  together.  Put  on  the 
bottom  piece.  Miter  one  corner  of  one  of  the  base  pieces. 
Place  exactly  even  with  one  corner  and  mark  the  other  cor- 
ner and  miter  to  line.  Cut  each  side  in  the  same  way,  being 
careful  that  each  piece  is  put  on  the  side  for  which  it  was 
measured.  Treat  each  of  the  four  pieces  that  support  the 
lid  in  the  same  way.  Miter  pieces  E  and  F  in  the  same  way. 
Fit  in  top  piece  and  nail.  Nail  in  the  support  for  the  tills. 
Nail  together  both  tills,  and  place  them  in  chest.  Now  put 
on  the  galvanized  iron  top.  Bend  over  one  long  edge  £". 
Fit  to  an  edge  and  tack  on.  Work  down  smoothly  over  the 
top  and  bend  over  opposite  edge  and  tack.  Starting  at  the 
center  of  each  end  and  working  toward  the  outer  edges 
bend  over  the  ends.  With  shears  cut  out  corners  carefully. 
Finish  nailing.  Put  on  the  hinges  and  lastly  the  lock.  Cut, 
bend,  and  tack  on  the  four  lower  corner  pieces. 


PLATE  7 

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24 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


NAIL  CABINET. 

Purpose.  This  cabinet  should  be  found  in  every  shop ; 
its  order,  convenience,  and  economy  being  entirely  worth 
the  making.  It  is  designed  not  only  for  nails,  but  also  for 
staples  of  various  kinds,  roofing  nails  and  tins,  etc.  To  add 
to  its  convenience,  print  or  paint  below  the  mouth  of  each 
section  the  name  and  size  of  the  article  within.  Eight  penny 
nails  will  be  marked  "8d.  com." 

Material. 

(1)  Two  pieces  %"xlO"x!6'pine. 

(2)  One  piece  !^"x!2"x6'8". 

(3)  One  piece  ^"x4M"x3'3^". 

(4)  One  piece  of  tin  27j4"x3'3}4"  or  the  same  amount  of  thin 
wood  for  back,  also  a  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  Make  out  the  bill  of  stock  from  the  draw- 
ing. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  hammer,  chisel,  square,  try-square, 
dividers,  rule,  pencil,  knife,  gage,  coping  saw  and  half-round 
wood  file. 

Directions.  Lay  off  and  saw  the  two  10"  boards  into 
pieces  for  the  top,  bottom,  sides,  and  partitions  as  shown  in 
the  drawing.  Make  the  joints  in  the  horizontal  partition 
first,  using  the  saw  and  then  chiseling  down  to  \" .  (If  you 
have  a  router  plane,  set  to  \"  and  plane.)  Plane  both  edges 
of  No.  2,  in  list  of  material.  Set  gage  to  5V'  and  gage  a  line 
from  each  edge  of  the  board.  This  leaves  the  surplus 
material  in  the  middle  of  the  piece.  Square  one  end  of  the 
board;  measure  in  4|",  and  with  square  draw  line  entirely 
across  the  board ;  measure  in  four  times,  using  7\"  each  time 
and  draw  lines  across ;  lastly  measure  4f ",  and  saw  off  to 
line.  Repeat  this  same  process  on  the  remainder  of  the 
board.  Set  the  dividers  or  compass  to  31".  Measure  in 
7\"  on  these  lines  and  using  this  point  as  a  center  describe 
an  arc,  cutting  the  51"  gage  line.  From  the  opposite  end 


of  this  line  repeat  the  same  process.  Mark  off  on  all  lines. 
Rip  the  board  into  two  pieces  and  plane  down  to  gage  lines. 
Saw  out  curves  with  coping  saw  and  file  edges  smooth. 
Saw  and  plane  off  one  of  these  5^"  boards  to  5",  for  the 
lower  face  board  in  the  drawing. 

Assembly.  Beginning  at  board  A,  nail  on  four  of  the 
7\"  partition  boards.  Place  and  nail  the  board  C.  Like- 
wise put  on  boards  D  and  E  and  partition  boards.  Fit  and 
nail  in  end  pieces.  Nail  on  the  lower  face  piece  at  bottom 
of  cabinet.  Nail  on  remainder  of  pieces  to  measurements 
shown  in  drawing.  Tack  on  tin  for  back  or  nail  on  boards. 

SCREW  CABINET. 

Purpose.  As  a  companion  for  the  nail  cabinet,  the  screw 
cabinet  is  a  most  useful  article  in  any  shop.  This  cabinet 
is  convenient  not  only  for  screws  in  gross  boxes  or  paper 
sacks,  but  for  small  brads,  double-pointed  tacks,  carpet 
tacks,  small  butt  hinges,  cupboard  catches  and  other  articles 
needed  about  a  cabinet  or  woodworking  shop.  This  cabinet 
is  to  be  screwed  or  nailed  to  the  wall  in  some  convenient 
place. 

Material. 

(1)  One  piece  J4"x8"x5'6"  pine. 

(2)  One  piece  &"xlO"x!2". 

(3)  One  piece  ^"xl2"xS'l". 

(4)  One  piece  !^"x3;4"x6'6". 

A  small  hook,  pair  of  \l/t"  butt  hinges,  some  glue,  and  a  num- 
ber of  7d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  pupil  will  make  his  bill  of  stock  by 
referring  to  the  drawing. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  rabbet  plane,  brace,  f"  bit,  try- 
square,  chisel,  pencil,  rule,  screw-driver  and  hammer. 


USE  ANY  THIN  WOOD  OR,  OLD  Tin  FOR.  BACK. 


SCLEW  CABINET 


PLATE  8 


lo"- 


::-,,,.:: 


12.- 


26 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


Directions.  Saw  and  plane  the  different  pieces  to  sizes 
indicated  in  the  drawing.  Board  No.  1  in  list  of  material 
will  make  pieces  for  the  sides  and  door,  and  piece  No.  2 
will  make  the  bottom  and  top  pieces.  On  the  two  side 
pieces  at  the  back  and  on  the  inside,  plow  out  a  space  one- 
half  the  thickness  of  the  board  and  \"  deep.  Lay  off  on 
these  boards  beginning  at  the  bottom,  a  point  4"  from  the 
end  and  draw  line  across.  Draw  another  line  across  \" 
farther  in,  another  3|",  then  |",  and  so  on  the  length  of  the 
board.  Saw  and  chisel  out  these  grooves  to  the  depth  of 
\".  The  shelves  fit  into  these  grooves.  Make  the  panel 
door  to  the  dimensions  given  in  the  drawing. 

Assembly.  Fit  \"  shelves  into  side  pieces  and  nail.  Nail 
on  the  top  and  bottom  pieces,  and  lastly  the  back  piece.  Put 
hinges  and  hook  on  the  door. 


WORK  BENCH. 

Purpose.  Every  farm  needs  a  shop  and  work-bench  suit- 
able for  carpentry,  cabinet  making,  and  all  kinds  of  repair 
work.  Three  important  points  in  its  construction  are  that 
it  be  large,  heavy,  and  strong.  The  height  of  the  bench 
should  conform  to  the  height  of  the  workman,  and  it 
should  be  twelve  feet  long,  if  possible,  depending  upon  the 
size  of  the  shop.  It  should  be  as  wide  as  possible,  and  yet 
allow  the  men  to  reach  the  tools  hanging  on  the  wall  above 
the  bench,  and  it  should  be  nailed  to  the  wall  to  insure 
stability.  Rough-sawed  lumber  from  a  common  saw  mill 
will  do  admirably  for  this  bench.  In  fact  the  author  has 
seen  old  bridge  planks,  and  sills  from  an  old  house  made 
into  good  benches.  This  element  of  economy  should  not  be 
overlooked  when  trees  and  lumber  are  growing  more  scarce 
every  day. 


Material. 

Four  pieces  l-H"xlO"xl2'  oak  or  hard  pine. 

One  piece  2"x4"xl4'6". 

One  piece  2fc"xlO"xlO'. 

One  piece  ;^"xl2"x4'. 

One  piece  3"x4"x2'5j-2". 

One  \l/&"  vise  screw. 

A  number  of  10d.,  20d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Four  pieces  !J4"xlO"xl2'  for  top. 

(2)  Four  pieces  2"x4"x2'4}4"  for  legs. 

(3)  Two  pieces  2"x4"x2'4j4"  for  cross  pieces. 

(4)  One  piece  £S"xlO"x2'4J4"  brace  for  legs  at  vise  end. 

(5)  One  piece  %"x2"x2'7"  for  vise  brace. 

(6)  Two  pieces  %"x2"x2'\\"  for  vise  brace. 

(7)  One  piece  H"x2y2"x20"  for  vise  parts. 

(8)  One  piece  3"x4"x2'Sj4"  for  vise  head. 

The  bill  of  stock  for  the  drawer  may  be  made  by  the  pupil. 
One  34"  oak  pin  3"  long. 
Two  1A"  oak  pegs,  4"  long. 


Tools.  Saws,  planes,  hammer,  square, 
square,  rule,  pencil,  gage,  brace,  and  §",  \ 
tension  bits. 


T-bevel,    try- 
',  f",  and  ex- 


Directions  and  Assembly.  Cut  out  legs  and  top  cross- 
pieces.  On  the  leg  that  is  to  be  directly  under  the  vise  cut 
a  thru  mortise  f"  x  2\" .  Cut  this  4J"  up  from  the  lower 
end.  This  thru  mortise  is  for  piece  marked  A  to  slide 
through.  Bore  two  \"  holes  thru  this  leg  in  position  shown 
in  drawing.  Cut  out  and  nail  at  the  upper  end  of  this  pair 
of  legs  piece  D  in  drawing,  and  No.  4  in  bill  of  stock. 
Mark  out  and  cut  the  braces,  Nos.  5  and  6  in  bill  of  stock, 
and  nail  into  position.  These  braces  are  used  to  support 
the  vise,  the  other  pair  of  legs  being  without  braces. 

Nail  plank  marked  B  onto  the  legs,  flush  with  the  top. 
Lay  first  top  plank  even  with  plank  B.  Lay  and  nail  the 
two  remaining  planks. 


WOJL.K  BENCH 

To  BE  FASTENED  To  WALL 


PLATE? 


—  z-c 


-    8' TO  12.' 


Co  IN  END 

£Vs£i  rs  jj-iSJJ  i  ^.:j 


18' 


18' 


28 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


Bore  holes  in  piece  No.  7  in  bill  of  stock,  marked  A  in 
drawing.  Bore  these  in  line  with  holes  in  leg  to  insure 
proper  fitting  of  wooden  pins. 

Work  piece  No.  8,  or  vise  head,  to  dimensions  given  in 
drawing.  Use  hard  wood,  preferably  white  oak,  for  this 
vise  head. 

Make  the  thru  mortise  at  the  bottom.  Slide  end  of  piece 
A  thru  until  flush  with  outside  of  vise  head.  Bore  a  3"  hole 
in  the  center  thru  head  and  piece  A,  and  fasten  with  a  hard 
wood  pin.  Measure  down  10"  from  the  upper  end  of  vise 
head  and  bore  a  1J"  hole  for  vise  screw  to  slip  thru. 

Fit  vise  head  carefully  into  position  and  mark  center  for 
hole  on  piece  B.  Bore  this  hole  thru  piece  B,  and  thru  leg. 
Put  on  casting  marked  C  in  the  drawing,  and  fit  vise  head 
into  place. 

This  completes  the  vise,  unless  vise  handle  is  to  be  made. 
On  another  plate  a  full  drawing  for  a  vise  handle  is  given. 
The  vise  is  widened  by  shifting  piece  A  and  also  turning 
the  vise  screw  at  the  upper  end. 

Bore  |"  holes  on  the  sides  for  \"  pegs  to  hold  the  longer 
pieces  put  into  the  vise.  A  convenient  drawer  may  be  put 
into  the  end  of  the  bench  for  small  tools. 

ROW  OF'NESTS  FOR  LAYING  HENS. 

Purpose.  This  row  of  nests  will  be  most  convenient  for 
every  place  where  poultry  is  raised,  whether  in  small  or 
large  flocks.  The  front  is  opened  and  the  top  is  a  hinged 
lid,  convenient  for  gathering  eggs. 


Material. 

One  piece  %"xl4"x!2',  pir.e  or  redwood. 

One  piece  %"xl4"xlO'. 

Three  \y2"  butt  hinges  and  a  number  of  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  has  been  left  for  the  pupil 
to  make  out. 

Tools.    Saw,  plane,  rule,  steel  square  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Cut  the  14"  board  into  lengths  for  the  top 
and  bottom,  front  piece,  and  door.  The  other  board  will 
make  the  remaining  pieces. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  top  and  bottom  pieces  to  the  end 
pieces.  Place  and  nail  in  back  piece,  then  the  division 
pieces.  Nail  on  the  4"  front  piece,  then  put  on  hinges 
which  hold  the  trap  door  on  top. 

NEST  FOR  A  SITTING  HEN. 

Purpose.  This  nest  is  convenient  in  that  it  can  be  moved 
around  easily,  a  thing  necessary  when  the  eggs  are  hatching. 
It  is  also  easily  cleaned. 

Material. 

One  piece  %"x!2"x6'8". 

A  number  of  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock  and  Directions.  The  pupil  will  make  his 
own  bill  of  stock  and  outline  of  procedure. 


—  14" 


12." 


—  12" 


PLATE  lo 


Of  NETTJ1  Im.  LAYING  HEN^ 


0 


30 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


COOPS  FOR  HENS  AND  CHICKENS. 

Purpose.  Chicken  coops  are  needed  wherever  chickens 
are  raised.  This  problem  will  meet  with  approval  in  almost 
any  shop.  Much  time  was  spent  in  getting  the  size  which 
will  be  best  for  the  hen  and  chickens,  and  most  economical 
in  lumber. 

A-Shaped  Coop. 

Material.    Cheap  grade  of  pine  or  old  lumber  of  any  kind. 
One  piece  %"x!2"xlO'. 
One  piece  ^"x!2"x7'. 
Two  laths  or  strips  Y2"xVA"x2'6". 
A  number  of  6d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
(1)     Four  pieces  ^"xl2"x2'6"  for  roof. 
(2>     Two  laths  ^"xl 54"x2'6"  for  roof. 

(3)  One  piece  %"x!2"x3'  for  lower  back  piece. 

(4)  One  piece  %"xl2"xl'6"  for  tipper  back  piece. 

(5)  One  piece  each  of  ^''xl'/TxS',  2'6",  I'll"  and   1'4"   for 

front  strips. 

(6)  One  piece  ^"x6"x9"  for  upper  front  strip. 

(7)  Four  pieces  %"x2'/2"x2'  for  inner  cross  braces. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  gage,  rule,  pencil,  T-bevel,  and  ham- 
mer. 

Directions.  Saw  the  10'  board  into  four  pieces  2'6"  long. 
Set  the  T-bevel  on  the  square  at  an  angle  of  H"  to  2".  (See 
illustration  on  Plate  II.)  Bevel  the  ends  of  the  roof  boards 
to  the  angle  set  on  the  T-bevel.  Using  the  same  angle  saw 
the  back  boards  mentioned  in  No.  3  and  No.  4  in  bill  of 
stock.  Also  saw  out  and  cut  to  slant  No.  5  and  No.  6. 
Pieces  in  No.  7  in  bill  of  stock  are  used  merely  as  nail  ties 
to  keep  the  coop  from  parting  in  the  middle. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  roof  boards  to  the  cross  ties  first. 
Fit  the  two  parts  together  and  nail  at  the  top.  Nail  on  the 
lower  back  piece,  then  the  upper  and  lastly  the  front  strips, 
using  the  measurements  shown  in  the  drawing.  The  laths 


are  to  keep  rain  from  running  thru  the  cracks  between  tin- 
two  boards.  Nail  all  pieces  securely  as  the  coop  is  likely 
to  be  moved  often. 

Box  Coop. 

Material.    Same  wood  as  in  A-shaped  coop. 
One  piece  %"xl2"x!4'. 
One  piece  ?i"x8"x!4'. 
Two  laths  or  strips  !-i"xl!/£"x3'. 
A  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  may  be  made  out  by  the 
pupil.  Material  may  be  saved  by  making  piece  A  from  the 
piece  sawed  off  of  the  board  just  below  it. 

Tools.    Same  as  for  A-shaped  coop. 

Directions.  The  board  J"  x  12"  x  14'  will  make  the  three 
roof  boards  and  the  lower  board  on  each  side.  Saw  these 
roof  boards  to  proper  lengths.  The  remaining  pieces  are 
made  from  the  8"  board.  A  side  may  be  made  with  the  12" 
board  mentioned  above  and  the  8"  board.  To  do  this  lay 
the  12"  board  and  8"  board  together,  measure  up  14"  from 
one  end  and  24"  on  the  other.  Connect  these  two  points 
and  saw  the  line.  Piece  A  shown  in  the  drawing  may  be 
made  from  the  piece  just  sawed  off.  The  back  is  made  in 
.  two  pieces  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Rip  out  the  front 
pieces. 

Assembly.  Make  the  sides  first.  Nail  the  two  nail  ties, 
B  and  C,  at  the  front  to  hold  the  three  pieces  together.  Do 
not  nail  at  the  back  as  the  back  pieces  will  break  joints. 
Nail  the  back  boards  to  the  sides,  then  nail  on  the  front 
strips,  spacing  them  to  correspond  to  the  figures  in  the 
drawing.  To  make  the  roof  boards  project  over  the  ends 
somewhat  and  give  a  good  appearance,  spread  the  roof 
boards  \"  when  nailing  them  on.  This  \"  crack  will  be 
covered  by  the  strips.  Give  the  coop  two  good  coats  of 
paint. 


A -SHAPED  COOP  FOR.  HEN  AND  CHICKENS 


Box  COOP 


PLATE  11 


/\ 

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LAHiOJL 

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32 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


WATERING  TROUGH,  CHICKEN  FEEDER,  OATS 
SPROUTER. 

Purpose.  Much  attention  is  now  being  given  to  the 
scientific  raising  of  chickens.  Conveniences  are  being  added 
that  work  for  the  saving  of  labor  and  for  the  health  and 
well  being  of  the  poultiy.  The  watering  trough  is  one  of 
the  articles  that  should  be  found  in  all  yards.  It  must  be 
small  enough  to  move  easily,  and  constructed  in  such  a  way 
as  to  be  easily  cleaned. 

The  chicken  feeder  or  hopper  is  an  improvement  that 
saves  much  labor  and  feed.  The  feeder  designed  in  the 
drawing  has  two  compartments,  one  for  grit  and  the  other 
for  ground  feed.  One  side  of  the  roof  is  nailed  on  per- 
manently while  the  other  is  hinged  so  that  the  door  may  be 
raised  and  the  stuff  put  in.  The  feed  and  grit  works  down 
automatically  as  it  is  eaten  by  the  chickens,  thus  saving  the 
work  of  many  feedings. 

This  oats  sprouter  is  designed  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
fresh  green  feed  for  the  chickens  all  thru  the  winter.  It  is 
built  as  a  stand  which  holds  the  trays  of  oats.  The  trays 
are  nearly  filled  with  oats  which  are  well  moistened.  The 
sprouter  is  then  set  by  the  furnace  or  stove  where  it  can 
get  plenty  of  warmth  and  the  sprouting  oats  are  moistened 
each  day.  Under  proper  conditions  these  grow  quickly, 
and  a  tray  can  be  used  each  day,  thus  affording  a  daily 
supply  of  green  feed.  The  sprouts  should  be  from  4"  to 
6"  high  before  using. 


Material. 


Watering  Trough. 


One  piece  ai"x8"x7'10"  pjne. 

A  number  of  Bd.  common  nails  and  some  white  lead. 

Bill  of  Stock.    To  be  made  out  by  the  pupil. 

Tools.    Saws,  pencil,  plane,  try-square,  rule  and  hammet. 


Directions.  Lay  out  and  finish  all  pieces  as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  Take  care  to  make  good  joints,  planing  the 
edges  and  ends  at  each  joint.  Before  nailing  put  white  lead 
in  each  joint. 

Chicken  Feeder. 
Material. 

One  piece  }4"xl2"xl3'  pine. 
One  piece  J^"xlO"x7'8". 
One  piece  J4"x8"xlO' 
One  piece  M"x8"x8'. 

One  pair  154"  butt  hinges,  also  a  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  com- 
mon nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  list  of  materials  given  above  will  be 
ample  to  complete  the  problem.  Careful  thought  will  show 
how  to  put  this  feeder  together  with  little  waste  of  material. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  try-square,  gage  and  ham- 
mer. 

Directions.  Make  the  ends  first.  Plane  a  good  joint  on 
an  edge  of  two  8"  pieces  and  put  together  with  corrugated 
fasteners,  using  them  in  the  ends  as  well  as  sides.  Lay  out 
the  end  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  From  the  bottom  mark 
up  3"  and  mark  points  on  both  edges,  again  6"  and  draw 
lines  across.  Find  center  and  put  a  point  3"  to  each  side. 
Measure  up  24"  and  mark  points  on  both  edges,  then  find 
middle  of  end.  Connect  all  points  and  saw  carefully  to  line. 
Mark  the  partition  the  same  way.  Make  the  bottom  or 
floor  of  two  8"  boards.  The  sides  of  the  hopper  are  made 
of  12"  and  10"  boards.  They  need  to  be  notched  to  fit  where 
the  piece  extends  down  into  the  bottom  of  the  hopper.  One 
roof  board  may  be  left  full  12"  wide,  while  the  other  is  cut 
to  114". 

Assembly.  Nail  the  bottom  and  then  the  3"  side  pieces 
to  the  ends  and  middle  partition.  Nail  on  the  sides.  Nail 
on  one  side  of  the  roof  permanently.  Put  hinges  on  the 
other  piece. 


WATEKINGTKOUGH 


PLATE  1Z 


xx> 

1 

VJ 

i 

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y 

L  --  |t"  --  J 


CHICKEN  FEEDER 


'-  8'- 


^t—r  --_-_-.--- 

GfUT 

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GROUND  FEED  .Eic  . 

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34 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


Oats  Sprouter. 

Material. 

One  piece  H"xl2"x9'  pine. 

One  piece  J4"xl2"xl2'4". 

A  number  of  6cl.  and  8d.  common  nails. 

Before  beginning  this  problem  make  out  the  bill  of  stock. 
There  are  twenty-eight  pieces  with  only  five  different 
dimensions.  Lay  out  all  the  material  before  beginning  to 
saw  so  as  to  be  sure  that  you  have  figured  correctly. 

CHICKEN  CRATE. 

Purpose.  This  chicken  crate  is  for  use  in  hauling 
chickens  to  market,  moving  them  from  one  place  to  another, 
or  for  shipping  them  by  express.  Expensive  lumber  is  not 
needed,  and  boxes  or  crates  can  be  used  to  advantage. 

Material.  Almost  any  kind  or  width  of  lumber  may  be 
used.  The  floor  should  be  solid,  and  a  good  set  of  boards 
at  least  2J"  wide  should  be  used  around  the  bottom.  The 
sliding  board  is  cut  accurately  while  the  remainder  may  be 
almost  any  width  with  spaces  2"  or  less  between  strips. 

Tools.    Saw,  hammer,  rule,  pencil,  and  chisel. 

General  Directions.  It  is  not  necessary  to  make  out  an 
accurate  bill  of  stock,  as  only  the  lengths  of  the  different 
pieces  are  required.  Make  the  corner  and  middle  posts 
first.  Cut  several  pieces  to  the  right  length  to  make  the 
ends,  following  as  nearly  as  possible  the  widths  shown  in 
the  drawing.  Make  the  middle  partition.  Saw  a  number  of 
pieces  4'  long  for  the  sides  and  nail  these  strips  to  the  ends. 
Turn  the  frame  upside  down  and  nail  on  enough  %"  strips 
to  cover  the  bottom.  Saw  and  nail  on  the  top  strips.  Chisel 
out  a  notch  for  the  sliding  center  board.  Nail  on  the  tin 
strips  at  A,  B,  and  C.  When  the  crate  is  to  be  fastened 
permanently  a  small  nail  may  be  driven  thru  a  tin  strip  and 
the  sliding  board. 


EGG  TESTER. 

Purpose.  This  box  is  designed  to  aid  in  testing  or 
candling  eggs.  It  is  nothing  more  than  a  box  with  a  hole 
the  size  of  an  egg  in  the  front,  a  hole  in  the  top  for  the 
smoke  from  a  lamp  to  escape  and  a  hinged  door  in  front 
thru  which  the  lamp  may  be  admitted.  An  electric  bulb 
may  be  used  instead  of  a  lamp.  The  tester  is  used  in  a  dark 
room.  Light  the  lamp  and  place  it  in  the  box  and  hold  the 
egg  over  the  opening  in  front.  A  little  practice  will  soon 
enable  the  user  to  tell  the  condition  of  the  eggs. 

Material.     Pine. 

One  piece  J/2"x8"x5'8". 

One  pair  small  butt  hinges. 

A  number  of  6d.  finishing  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  !4"x8"xl3"  for  back. 
Two  pieces  54"x7"xl3"  for  sides. 
One  piece  J4"x8"x8"  for  bottom. 
One  piece  ^"x4'/Tx8"  for  top. 
One  piece  l/2" -x&" y.\\l/2"  for  door. 
One  piece  ^"x2%"x8"  for  front  lower  piece. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  gage,  rule,  pencil,  try-square,  brace, 
extension  bit,  T-bevel  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  and  plane  all  pieces  to  dimensions.  To 
shape  the  side  pieces,  measure  up  on  one  edge  21".  Across 
the  opposite  end  measure  in  3|"  from  the  corner.  Connect 
these,  and  saw  and  plane  to  the  line.  Set  the  T-bevel  to  this 
angle  just  made,  and  use  it  in  planing  the  lower  front  piece, 
top,  and  upper  end  of  door.  Bore  a  U"  hole  in  the  center  of 
the  top  board.  Bore  another  1}"  hole  in  the  center  of  the 
door. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  side  to  the  back.  Put  on  the  lower 
front  piece  then  the  bottom  and  top.  Lastly,  put  on  the 
hinges. 


CHICKEN  CKATE 


£E 


-  *-.  <  <^y 


—  4-0" 


w^ 


rJ 


"F 


TINJTKJP- 


PLATE  13 


*-**'-1 


r 


4-3 


ALMOST  ANY  WIDTH  OF 
LUMBER  MAV  BE  USED  .OLD 
BOKES  AND  CRATING  C  ANBe 
USED  To  ADVANTAGE, 


36 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


SEED  CORN  TESTING  TRAY. 

Purpose.  The  seed  corn  testing  tray  is  one  of  the  most 
needed  and  useful  articles  to  be  found  any  where  on  a  farm 
growing  corn  in  any  quantity.  The  construction  of  the  box 
is  simple.  Directions  for  using  are  below. 

Material.    Yellow  pine  or  any  comparatively  light  wood. 
One  piece  M"x8"xlO'. 

Two  pieces  of  cheap  muslin  about  28"  square. 
One  piece  black  chalk.     A  number  of  8d.  common  nai!s. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  will  be  made  out  by  the 
pupil. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  try-square,  hammer,  yard  stick,  and 
rule. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  Cut  all  pieces  to  the  dimen- 
sions shown  in  the  drawing.  Nail  the  sides  and  ends  to- 
gether, and  then  nail  on  the  bottom.  Lay  off  on  one  piece 
of  muslin  as  near  as  possible  to  the  center,  one  hundred 
squares  using  the  yard  stick  and  black  chalk  in  laying  off 
and  drawing  the  lines.  Put  the  numbers  of  the  rows  to  the 
outside  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Fill  the  box  about  half 
full  of  sawdust  pressing  it  down  level  all  over  the  box.  Lay 
the  piece  of  muslin  with  the  marked  squares  over  the  saw- 
dust in  the  box.  Place  your  corn  to  be  tested  in  rows  of 
ten,  or  one  hundred,  so  that  you  will  know  where  each  ear 
belongs.  Select  six  grains  from  different  parts  of  the  ear. 
Lay  these  six  grains  in  square  No.  1,  in  two  rows,  pointing 


m  the  same  direction.  Repeat  until  all  the  squares  are 
rilled.  Cover  with  the  second  piece  of  muslin  and  spread 
sawdust  over  this.  Moisten  well  and  keep  in  a  warm  place 
four  or  five  days,  then  remove  the  top  cloth  and  take  note 
of  the  experiment.  Supposing  the  grain  or  grains  of  ear 
No.  41  failed  to  sprout,  discard  that  ear  from  the  row  you  are 
testing.  Discard  also  the  ears  that  have  weak  sprouted 
grains,  or  those  that  have  only  part  of  the  grain  sprouted. 
The  ears  of  corn  left  in  the  row  are  to  be  used  as  seed. 


FRAME  FOR  THE  SEED  CORN  TESTING  TRAYS. 

Purpose.  This  frame  makes  a  convenient  place  to  keep 
the  testing  trays  while  testing  corn  and  it  also  affords  a 
place  to  keep  them  from  one  year  to  another.  This  frame 
will  support  six  trays.  Six  trays  will  be  enough  for  almost 
any  sized  farm.  Allowing  one  hundred  ears  to  the  bushel, 
six  bushels  can  be  tested  at  a  time. 

Material.     Yellow  pine  or  any  cheap  wood. 
One  piece  2"x4"x7'. 
One  piece  J4"x6"xl2'. 
One  piece  J4"x6"x8'. 
A  number  of  8d.  common  nails. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  This  problem  is  so  simple  that 
almost  a  glance  will  show  the  sizes  of  pieces,  and  construc- 
tion. When  assembling  the  frame,  you  will  find  it  easier  to 
nail  together  the  braces  and  pieces  for  the  trays  to  slide  on 
before  nailing  them  to  the  posts. 


SEEP  CORN  TESTING  TRAY 

5o."UAE£S  ANP  NUMBERING 
To  BE  DONE  ON  CLOTH 


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PLATE  14 


TING 


38 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


CORN  TRAY  FOR  EXHIBITION  PURPOSES. 

Purpose.  Corn  shows  usually  have  three  groups,  the  best 
single  ear,  the  best  ten  ears,  and  the  best  fifty  ears.  Most 
men  usually  enter  their  corn  in  the  ten  ear  group.  It  is  for 
this  group  that  this  tray  has  been  designed.  Nearly  every 
little  town  and  many  larger  towns  in  farming  districts  have 
their  corn  shows.  The  teacher  of  manual  training  will  have 
little  trouble  in  getting  the  Commercial  Club  of  the  town  to 
furnish  the  lumber  with  which  to  make  the  trays,  which  can 
be  stored  and  used  year  after  year.  This  will  make  a  good 
class  problem,  each  making  one  or  several  trays,  or  the  in- 
structor may  employ  the  factory  method,  allowing  the  boy  to 
make  one  or  two  parts  until  he  is  proficient  in  that  part. 
As  a  rule  the  boy  who  raises  corn  will  want  a  tray  of  his 
own  to  keep  at  his  home. 

Material.    White  pine. 
One  piece  '/^"xl2"x2'2". 
One  piece  ^Hx2lA"x2'2". 
Two  pieces  J4"x2j4"xl3". 
One  piece  half  round  moulding  ^"x8'6". 
A  number  of  6d.  finishing  nails  and  ~A"  brads. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  One  piece  Wxl\'/2"x2'l'/-"  for  bottom 

(2)  Two  pieces  34"x2J4"xl2"  for  sides. 

(3)  One  piece  ^"x2M"x2'l!/r  for  back. 

(4)  Xine  pieces  half  round  J" 


Tools.     Saws,  planes,  plow,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  gage, 
and  hammer. 

Directions.    Put  a  f"  blade  in  the  plow  and  set  it  to  cut 
|"  deep.     Plow  out  a  groove  in  the  bottom  piece  leaving  a 


strip  \"  wide  between  the  edge  and  the  groove.  After  the 
pieces  mentioned  in  Nos.  2  and  3  in  bill  of  stock  have  been 
planed  to  dimensions,  a  groove  \"  wide  and  \"  deep  is 
plowed  along  one  edge  leaving  ^"  between  the  edge  and  the 
groove.  Lay  out  the  joint  as  shown  in  the  detail.  Take 
notice  that  the  grooves  on  the  end  pieces  should  face  each 
other,  and  they  must  fit  the  groove  in  the  back  piece. 

Assembly.  Nail  a  side  and  back  piece  together.  Fit  in  the 
bottom  board  and  then  fit  the  opposite  side  piece,  being  sure 
that  all  joints  fit  before  nailing  permanently.  Saw  the  half 
round  to  proper  lengths,  space  them  equally  and  nail  with 
small  brads. 

CRATES  FOR  CORN  IN  EAR. 

Purpose.  This  crate  is  made  especially  for  handling  seed 
corn  although  it  can  be  used  for  ear  corn  generally. 

Material.  Rough  sawed  lumber  of  almost  any  light  wood, 
crating  lumber  being  most  economical.  A  number  of  6d. 
common  nails. 

Tools.     Saws,  gage,  square,  rule,  pencil  and  hammer. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  Rip  out  all  pieces  and  saw  to 
correct  dimensions  as  shown  in  drawing.  Nail  the  end 
pieces  to  the  upright  pieces,  spacing  as  nearly  equally  as 
possible,  and  using  five  pieces  to  the  end.  Nail  on  the  bot- 
tom, putting  on  six  pieces  and  lastly,  the  ten  side  pieces 
using  five  to  each  side. 


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40 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


SEED  CORN  RACK. 

Purpose.  This  seed  corn  rack  is  the  most  convenient,  the 
most  practical,  and  the  cheapest  rack  that  can  be  constructed. 
It  is  coming  to  be  a  potent  factor  of  farm  equipment.  Our 
up-to-date  farmers  have  learned  the  need  of  keeping  seed 
corn  high  and  dry,  and  so  arranged  that  air  can  circulate  free- 
ly around  each  ear.  In  this  rack  the  corn  ears  are  laid  on 
the  wire  shelves,  the  ends  projecting  on  each  side.  The 
height  and  width  of  the  rack  may  be  varied  according  to 
the  individual  needs.  As  given  here  the  rack  holds  about 
twenty  bushels  of  corn,  and  the  cost  of  construction  is 
comparatively  very  low. 

Material. 

Three  pieces  2"x4"xlO' 
Seven  pieces  2"x4"x8'. 

750  ft.  No.  12  gage  wire  and  a  number  of  lOd.  and  20d.  com- 
mon nails,  also  a  number  of  staples. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Two  pieces  2"x4"xlO'  for  upper  and  lower  pieces. 

(2)  Four  pieces  2"x4"x8'  for  double  ends. 

(3)  One  piece  2"x4"x7'8'/T  for  middle  upright. 

(4)  Two  pieces  2"x4"x4'll^"  for  middle  lengthwise  braces. 

(5)  Four  pieces  2"x4"x4'  for  corner  braces. 


Tools.  Saws,  square,  rule,  pencil,  T-bevel,  hammer  and 
pliers. 

Directions.  Measure  and  cut  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  mentioned  in 
the  bill  of  stock.  Miter  the  brace,  using  10"  on  one  arm  of 
the  framing  square,  and  12"  on  the  other  to  get  one  angle. 
Reverse  this  to  get  angle  at  other  end. 

Assembly.  Lay  on  the  floor  the  two  10'  pieces ;  nail  one 
8'  piece  at  each  end.  Put  in  the  middle  upright  piece,  then 
the  two  cross  braces.  Nail  on  the  extra  8'  pieces  at  the 
ends.  Put  in  the  mitered  braces.  The  most  difficult  step 
in  •  making  this  rack  is  to  get  the  wires  evenly  stretched. 
Stand  the  rack  upright  on  the  floor  and  nail  temporarily, 
adding  other  braces  in  such  a  way  that  they  will  give 
stability  and  at  the  same  time  be  out  of  the  way  as  much 
as  possible.  Mark  off  distance  between  wires  at  each  end. 
Twb  men  will  be  required  to  do  the  work.  Unroll  the 
wire  only  as  needed.  At  one  end  put  in  enough  staples  to 
hold  firmly,  bending  over  the  wire  as  an  extra  precaution. 
One  person,  by  using  a  large  pair  of  pliers  and  bracing  him- 
self against  the  rack,  can  stretch  the  wires  tightly  while 
the  other  person  puts  in  the  staples.  When  the  work  gets 
too  high  to  reach  easily,  turn  over  the  rack  and  work  down- 
ward. 


PLATE  1C 


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XX 


NX 


CATACITY  20  BUJHEW 


XX 


Xx 


-3-0"- 


42 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


CABINET  FOR  SEEDS  AND  SMALL  GRAIN. 

Purpose.  Farmers  have  always  been  at  a  disadvantage 
in  storing  for  another  season's  planting,  the  seeds  and  small 
grain  that  they  wish  to  keep.  They  have  been  stored  in 
sacks  and  paper  bags,  and  hung  from  the  ceiling  in  the 
barns  and  attics,  only  to  suffer  from  rats  and  mice  and 
weather  conditions.  Or  they  are  sometimes  hung  in  the 
kitchen,  proving  a  dust  catch  and  a  source  of  much  care. 
This  seed  cabinet  will  care  for  all  the  seeds  and  small  grains 
for  the  farm  and  garden,  keeping  them  dry  and  safe  from 
mice  and  rats.  The  metal  used  in  each  section  does  not 
absorb  or  give  off  moisture.  This  cabinet  can  be  used  in 
schools  where  agriculture  is  taught.  If  a  larger  cabinet  is 
desired,  it  can  be  made  higher  or  longer,  and  more  sections 
added.  Each  drawer  will  conveniently  hold  two-thirds  of 
a  peck. 

Material. 

One  piece  J4"xl2"xl0'. 

Two  pieces  ^"x8"x!2'. 

One  piece  ->4"x8"xlO'. 

One  piece  ^"xlO"xlO". 

One  piece  J4"xlO"xl4'. 

One  piece  y2"x8"xl&. 

Twenty-five  pieces  No.  28  gage  galvanized  iron   15"xl7",  also 

a  number  of  6d.  and  8d.   finishing  nails  and   small   sized 

shingle  nails.     (Not  galvanized.) 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  ^"x\7"x4'4yj"  for  top. 
Two  pieces  34"xl5j4"x2'6j4"  for  sides. 
One  piece  y2"x2'6W x4'L>4"  for  back. 
One  piece  J4"x2"x3'll^"  for  horizontal  casing. 
Five  pieces  J4"xl'/2"x3'll54"  for  horizontal  casings. 
Two  pieces  ^"xiy2"x2'6^"  for  vertical  casings. 
Twenty  pieces  %"x2j4"xl4j4"  for  drawer  runners. 


Forty  pieces  ^"xlj4"x!4%"  for  drawer  runners. 
Ten  pieces  54"x%"xl454"  for  drawer  runners. 
Twenty  pieces  J4"xl^2"x4J4"  for  vertical  casings. 
Twenty-five  pieces  34"x5"x954"  for  drawer  fronts. 
Twenty-five  pieces  Ji"x4"x8/*  for  rear  of  drawers. 
Sixteen  pieces  -)4"x2"x4j4"  for  frame  at  F  in  drawing. 
Four  pieces  %"x2"x2%"  for  frame  at  G  in  drawing. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  hammer,  square,  try-square,  rule, 
pencil,  mallet,  plow,  chisel  and  nailset. 

Directions.  Get  out  stock  for  ends  and  top,  and  glue  them 
together.  Finish  to  dimensions  given  in  the  drawing. 
Plow  out  insides  of  end  pieces  at  back  as  shown  in  detail  of 
corner  in  drawing.  Cut  to  dimensions  all  pieces  called  for 
in  bill  of  stock,  making  the  larger  pieces  first,  as  in  this 
case  nearly  any  small  piece  may  be  used.  With  the  plow, 
saw  and  chisel  cut  the  face  of  all  the  drawers.  Round  up 
outside  edges  with  plane.  Bend  galvanized  iron  as  shown 
in  detail  of  drawing.  This  \"  lap  makes  a  stiffer  drawer 
and  at  the  same  time  rounds  the  edge  so  that  it  will  not  cut 
the  hands.  Put  in  the  \"  x  4"  x  8"  piece  of  wood  and  nail 
the  three  pieces  together.  Nail  the  various  drawer  runners 
together  as  shown  at  A,  B,  C. 

Assembly.  Lay  off  and  nail  on  A,  B,  etc.  on  the  inside  of 
both  ends.  Nail  in  the  half-inch  boards  at  the  back.  Put 
on  lower  2"  casing,  and  fit  and  nail  in  drawer  runners 
marked  D  in  drawing.  Toe-nail  pieces  marked  F,  to  D,  etc. 
Now  you  are  ready  for  a  new  addition  to  the  frame.  Nail 
on  to  the  ends  as  at  B,  the  horizontal  casing  marked  H. 
Now  nail  in  C,  etc.,  at  both  front  and  back.  Proceed  as 
before  until  all  have  been  put  in.  Put  on  the  top.  The 
drawer  openings  are  made  large  so  that  the  drawer  opens 
easily  without  handles. 


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PLATE  17 


44 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


SEED  CORN  SLED. 

Purpose.  Years  ago,  before  much  attention  was  given  to 
the  selection  of  seed  corn,  it  was  a  common  practice  for  the 
farmer  to  go  to  his  corn  crib  at  planting  time  and  pick  out 
what  he  considered  his  best  ears  of  corn.  A  better  practice 
was  to  select  the  best  ears  of  corn  as  it  was  husked.  Agri- 
culturists having  since  given  the  problem  considerable 
thought  and  experiment,  have  proved  this  to  be  a  very  poor 
method.  In  selecting  the  best  seed  corn  it  is  necessary  to 
know  not  only  the  size  and  shape  of  the  ear,  and  the  kind  of 
grains  on  the  ear,  but  also  the  height  and  thickness  of  the 
stalk,  its  color  and  appearance  as  to  sturdiness,  the  hang 
of  the  ear,  and  the  amount  of  husks  covering  the  ear.  They 
have  also  found  that  the  best  seed  corn  is  picked  early,  be- 
fore the  regular  time  for  husking.  This  necessitates  going 
thru  the  rows  of  corn  without  injuring  the  rows.  The 
narrow  seed  corn  sled  in  the  drawing  is  designed  for  that 
purpose,  and  it  has  proved  to  be  a  success.  One  horse  is 
hitched  to  the  sled  and  it  is  dragged  thru  the  rows  of  corn, 
as  the  ears  of  corn  are  husked  and  thrown  into  the  sled. 
When  the  sled  is  filled  and  hauled  to  the  barn  the  side  door 
is  unloosed  and  the  sled  tipped  over  to  empty  the  contents. 
These  ears  of  corn  are  the  choice  ears  of  the  field,  but  they 
need  to  be  given  the  regular  seed  corn  test  before  planting. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  make  this  sled  of  new  material,  and  in 
fact  for  economy's  sake,  it  is  better  to  use  old  lumber.  If 
the  lumber  you  have  on  hand  does  not  conform  to  these  di- 
mensions, make  your  own  measurements,  merely  using 
this  as  a  guide. 

Material.    Yellow  pine. 
One  piece  2"x8"xl4'6". 
Three  pieces  2"x4"x8'. 
Five  pieces  ^"x6"x!4'. 
One  piece  ^"x6"x!6'. 
Ore  pair  T-hingcs  and  screws. 
Two  hooks  or  hasps  with  staples. 
Six  feet  of      "  ro  o 


nasps  witn  staples. 
'  round  Norway  iroi; 


One  2y*"  iron  ring  made  from  Vt"  stock. 

A  number  of  20d.,  8d..  and  6d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  pupil  should  make  out  his  own  bill  of 
stock.  As  this  is  generally  made  of  old  and  uneven  mate- 
rial, it  will  give  the  workman  a  chance  to  use  his  ingenuity 
in  working  in  odd  pieces.  It  is  not  necessary  that  these 
exact  dimensions  be  used  if  it  will  suit  the  workman's 
convenience  to  use  other  measurements. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  chisel,  square,  try-square,  rule,  pen- 
cil, brace,  \"  bit,  screw-driver  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  out  the  two  runners  to  lengths  given  in 
the  drawing.  Measure  back  7"  on  one  edge  at  one  end ; 
draw  a  line  to  opposite  corner  and  saw  to  line.  At  the  op- 
posite end  measure  in  3"  and  then  3|",  and  saw  down  If" 
enough  to  let  a  piece  of  studding  come  flush  with  the  sur- 
face. Lay  out,  saw  and  chisel  the  three  other  notches. 
Bore  a  \"  hole  in  the  front  end  at  about  the  position  shown 
in  the  drawing.  Saw  and  cut  to  dimensions  all  other  pieces. 

Assembly.  Nail  in,  with  20d.  common  nails,  the  pieces  of 
studding  which  fit  into  the  notches  and  form  the  cross  ties 
of  the  sled.  Using  any  width  of  boards,  place  and  nail  onto 
this  framework  the  floor,  filling  out  the  6'6"  length  of  the 
floor  of  the  sled.  Nail  together  the  pieces  of  studding 
marked  A  and  B  in  the  drawing.  Nail  these  frames  to  the 
floor,  placing  one  f"  from  each  end  to  allow  for  the  end 
boards.  Nail  on  the  end  pieces,  and  then  the  back.  Nail 
on  the  strip  above  the  door,  and  screw  on  the  hinges. 
Make  the  door,  being  sure  that  the"  end  strips  come  over 
the  end  frames  and  in  position  to  be  used  for  the  hinges. 
The  third  strip  is  put  on  in  the  middle.  The  door  is  held 
at  the  bottom  by  bent  hooks  or  hasps  as  shown  in  the  draw- 
ing. In  the  forge  shop  make  a  2\"  ring  from  \"  stock. 
Slip  the  rod  mentioned  in  the  list  of  materials  thru  the  holes 
already  in  the  runners  and  bend  it  around.  Place  the  ring 
in  the  center  and  bend  over  the  rod  enough  to  keep  it  from 
slipping  when  the  sled  is  heavily  loaded. 


PLATE  18 


45 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


BIRD  HOUSES. 

Purpose.  Every  agricultural  department  of  every 
state,  most  farmers,  and  in  general  most  people,  are  begin- 
ning to  understand  that  birds  are  a  great  asset  to  the  coun- 
try, not  only  for  their  economic  value,  but  for  their  beautiful 
plumage  and  songs.  They  are  interesting  to  study  because 
of  their  home  life,  their  habits,  and  almost  human  intelli- 
gence in  making  their  nests  and  providing  for  and  teaching 
their  young.  The  forests  and  trees,  prairies,  marshes,  and 
natural  meadows  that  in  the  early  times  were  the  natural 
nesting  places  for  birds  are  being  taken  from  them.  The 
marshes  are  being  drained,  prairies  farmed,  the  grass  from 
meadows  is  being  cut  or  grazed,  forests  are  being  cut  down, 
thus  driving  out  the  birds  to  the  extent  that  some  kinds  are 
becoming  extinct.  It  is  to  give  some  of  our  best  birds  a 
nesting  pake  that  so  many  people  are  taking  it  upon  them- 
selves to  build  homes  for  them.  In  the  elementary  grades 
will  be  found  boys  who  can  give  time  to  making  several  bird 
nests  during  manual  training  periods,  and  they  would  soon 
dot  the  country  over  with  homes  for  the  birds.  On  the  plate 
here  shown  are  four  houses,  one  designed  for  a  chickadee, 
one  for  a  tree  swallow,-  another  for  two  families  of  house 
wrens,  and  a  fourth  for  a  colony  of  martins.  The  chickadee 
house  should  be  placed  6  to  15  feet  from  the  ground,  tree 
swallow  house  10  to  15  feet,  house  wren  6  to  10  feet,  and 
martin  15  to  20  feet. 

CHICKADEE  HOUSE. 
Material. 

One  piece  Y2"  x  12"  x  3'. 

A  number  of  1%"  finishing  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  'A'  x  5"  x  131A"  for  back. 
One  piece  %"  x  7"  x  5fi"  for  top. 
Two  pieces  %"  x  4"  x   IVA"  for  sides. 


One  piece  'A"  x  5" 
One  piece  1A"  x  5" 


x  W1A"  for  front. 
x  6"  for  bottom. 


Tools.  Saws,  plane,  T-bevel,  try-square,  hammer,  brace, 
extension  bit,  rule,  and  pencil. 

Directions.  Saw  the  boards  to  dimensions  given  in  the 
bill  of  stock.  Set  T-bevel  on  the  square  at  an  agle  of  U"  to 
4|"  as  shown  in  illustration  in  Plate  II.  Use  this  same 
angle  for  cutting  front,  sides,  and  roof.  Plane  down  the 
front  piece  to  10"  plus  the  angle  on  the  T-bevel.  Use  this 
longer  measurement  for  making  the  point  on  the  side  pieces. 
From  these  points  on  the  side  pieces  extend  the  lines  at 
angle  of  T-bevel.  Saw  and  plane  to  this  line  giving  slant 
for  roof.  Cut  back  end  of  roof  at  same  angle  reversed.  Bore 
1J"  hole  in  the  center  of  the  front  8"  up  from  the  lower  end. 
.  Assembly.  Nail  front  piece  to  sides.  Nail  back  piece, 
then  floor  and  roof. 


TREE  SWALLOW  HOUSE. 
Material. 

One  piece  *A"  x  6'  x  3'4". 

A  number  of  \1A"  finishing  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  1A"  x  6"  x  11"  for  back. 
One  piece  1A"  x  6"  x  71A"  for  front. 
Two  pieces  yi"  x  5"  x  6%"  for  sides. 
One  piece  Yi"  x  6"  x  6^4"  for  bottom. 
Two  pieces   Vi"  x  5"  x  654"   f°r  roof. 

Tools.     Same  as  for  chickadee  house. 

Directions.  Cut  from  the  board  mentioned  in  list  of 
material  all  pieces  mentioned  in  bill  of  stock.  Set  T-bevel 
at  an  angle  on  the  square  of  H"  to  3".  •  Use  this  same  angle 
for  all  pieces.  To  make  back  piece,  measure  up  from  one 
end  of  board  9i".  Mark  a  point  on  each  edge  of  the  board. 
Set  T-bevel  to  these  points  and  draw  lines  giving  the  roof 


CHICKAPEE 


i 

:~-^T*"x~ 
i 

3 

- 

-P^ 

^ 

-U 


HOUSE  WKXN 


r 


-6f 


PLATE  19 


Sl£D  ITOU5C5 


r 


I  *— 


Tl^ARTIN 


48 


PROBLEMS     IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


slant.  Cut  to  these  lines.  Make  front  piece  in  same  manner 
except  that  points  are  marked  only  6"  high.  Set  extension 
bit  to  \%"  diameter  and  bore  hole  in  center  of  front  piece 
4"  from  lower  end.  For  side  pieces  measure  6"  from  ends, 
set  T-bevel,  mark  slant,  draw  lines  around  pieces,  saw  to 
lines,  and  plane.  Bevel  one  edge  of  each  roof  piece.  Plane 
pieces  to  desired  width.  The  length  from  ridge  to  eaves  is 
4J". 


Assembly.     Nail  front  pieces  to  sides. 
floor,  then  roof  pieces. 

HOUSE  WREN.' 


Nail  back,  then 


The  pupil  may  make  out  his  own  list  of  materials,  bill  of 
stock,  list  of  tools  needed,  and  line  of  procedure.  If  any 
question  arises  the  pervious  problems  may  be  referred  to. 


Material. 

One  piece 
One  piece 
One  piece 


MARTIN  HOUSE. 


x  12"  x  7'. 
x  8*  x  47" 
x  6"  x  2'. 


Bill  of  Stock.  A  full  set  of  dimensions  is  given  in  the 
drawing  so  that  the  pupil  may  easily  work  out  his  own  bill 
of  stock. 

Tools.    Same  as  in  previous  problems. 

Directions.  Cut  material  up  into  pieces  shown  in  drawing. 
Set  T-bevel  on  the  square  to  an  angle  of  3"  to  6".  (See 
illustration  Plate  II,  and  use  this  same  angle  for  all  pieces.) 

For  the  two  fronts,  measure  11^"  from  end,  and  mark  a 
point  on  each  edge  of  the  board.  Draw  lines  giving  roof 
pitch.  Saw  and  plane  to  lines.  To  locate  center  point  for 
openings,  draw  lines,  one  2\"  and  one  8J"  from  the  lower 
edge.  Measure  in  3"  from  the  edge  on  each  of  these  lines. 


On  these  points  bore  2\"  holes.  Bevel  side  pieces  to  11" 
plus  angle  on  the  bevel.  To  make  the  central  partition  fit 
into  roof  ridge,  bevel  edges  to  the  angle  given.  Bevel  roof 
pieces  at  the  same  angle. 

Assembly.  Nail  front  pieces  to  sides;  then  nail  on  first 
iloor.  Nail  in  partition  boards  as  follows :  lower  lengthwise 
partition,  two  cross  partitions,  second  floor,  upper  length- 
wise partition,  upper  cross  partitions,  and  finally  the  roof 
pieces. 

FRAME  FOR  HAMMOCK. 

Purpose.  This  convenient  frame  makes  it  possible  to 
hang  the  hammock  in  any  shady  spot  in  the  yard,  on  the 
porch  or  on  the  porch  roof,  without  the  necessity  of  setting 
posts  or  using  trees.  In  smaller  proportions  this  hammock 
frame  is  most  convenient  to  use  in  the  house,  for  a  baby's 
or  a  small  child's  bed,  or  swinging  hammock. 

Material.    Yellow  pine  or  hemlock. 
Three  pieces  2"x4"xl2'. 
One  piece  4"x4"xl2'. 
One  piece  ff  x4"x!6'. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  may  be  made  out  by  the 
pupil.  Material  may  be  saved  by  carefully  laying  out  and 
sawing  joints  so  that  the  same  sawing  in  some  cases  will 
make  the  ends  for  two  pieces. 

Tools.    Saw,  plane,  square,  pencil  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  all  pieces  to  the  lengths  shown  in  the 
drawing.  Miter  the  lower  braces  at  an  angle  of  45°,  the 
long  side  being  2'  10"  long.  In  marking  out  the  angle  of  the 
upper  braces  use  7"  on  one  arm  of  the  square  and  12"  on 
the  other,  and  the  reverse  to  get  the  angle  at  the  opposite 
end ;  the  longest  edge  is  3'  8". 


PLA.TE  20 


•3-0-- 


r 


J 


r* 


—  3-0 


6-0' 


so 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


Assembly.  Nail  the  2x4's  forming  the  base  of  the  frame 
to  the  4x4's  forming  the  uprights  with  16d.  nails.  Place 
and  nail  the  2x4's  forming  the  braces  to  the  uprights  with 
lOd.  nails.  Nail  on  the  horizontal  beam  with  16d.  nails,  and 
lastly  the  four  upper  braces  with  8d.  nails. 

GATES. 

Purpose.  A  farm  gate,  garden  or  yard  gate  affords  an 
excellent  problem  for  the  pupil,  and  a  most  useful  article 
after  it  is  made.  The  large  gate  is  designed  especially  for 
the  farm  and  it  is  wide  enough  to  allow  the  largest  load 
of  hay  to  pass  through  easily. 

Gate  No.  1. 
Material.    Pine. 

Seven  pieces  34"x6"xl6'. 

Six  pieces  J4"x6"xl4'. 

Six  dozen  2/2"  bolts  A"  in  diameter. 

One  pair  wrought  steel  strap  hinges  with  bolts  and  screw. 

Some  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  pupil  will  find  it  to  his  advantage  to 
make  out  his  own  bill  of  stock.  Directions  for  measuring 
and  sawing  the  braces  will  be  given  below. 


Tools.     Saws,  plane,  square,  rule,  pencil,  brace, 
bits,  and  hammer. 


g"  and 


JDirections  and  Assembling.  Saw  the  long  pieces,  end 
and  middle  pieces  to  dimensions.  Lay  down  three  upright 
pieces,  and  place  on  these  the  long  strips  spaced  to  dimen- 
sions shown  in  the  end  view  of  the  drawing.  Drive  in  a 
nail  at  each  joint  to  hold  the  boards  in  place,  and  then  bore 
the  holes  and  put  in  the  bolts.  You  are  now  ready  to  saw 
the  braces.  Take  actual  measurements  on  the  individual 
boards  in  each  case  so  as  to  insure  good  joints.  The  kind 


shown  in  the  drawing  will  serve  as  a  good  type,  as  it  gives 
plenty  of  room  for  the  bolts  in  each  case.  As  you  cut  out  a 
brace  fasten  it  on  with  small  nails.  When  the  braces  for 
both  sides  have  been  put  on  bore  the  holes  and  bolt  as 
before.  With  short  ends  that  have  been  left  over,  splice 
out  the  boards  under  the  hinges  and  nail  securely  and  then 
bolt  on  the  hinges. 

Gate  No.  2. 
Material.    Pine. 

One  piece  2"x4"xlO'. 
One   piece   ?6"xl2"x8'4". 
A  number  of  8d.  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    To  be  made  by  the  pupil. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  spokeshave,  try-square,  rule,  com- 
pass, pencil,  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Cut  cross  ties  and  pickets  to  dimensions 
given  in  the  drawing.  To  shape  the  pickets  set  the  compass 
to  2y ',  measure  down  2J"  from  the  top  end  of  each  picket, 
and  with  the  try-square  draw  a  line  across.  Using  each  end 
of  this  line  as  a  center  describe  arcs.  With  saw  and  spoke- 
shave  shape  down  to  the  lines. 

Assembly.  Place  the  two  cross  ties  on  the  floor  the 
proper  distance  apart.  Place  on  these  the  pickets,  properly 
spaced,  and  nail.  To  make  brace  take  actual  measurement 
from  the  gate.  Saw  out  and  nail. 

Gate  No.  3. 

Gate  No.  3  is  identical  with  Gate  No.  2,  the  height, 
width  and  general  dimensions  being  the  same.  The  only 
difference  is  in  the  design  of  the  picket  which  may  easily  be 
worked  out  by  the  student. 


No, 


A 


V 


,s 

V 


1 


,\ 

S' 


\\ 
S' 


2   ^ 
K)   •' 


x\ 
V 


.\ 


GATEJ 


No.s 


f 
1 

1 

(_  _  _ 

*  t 

'  
H 
f( 

A 

A 

A 

A 

A 

A 

A 

\ 
•    t 

* 

I 

4 

." 

a 

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4 

V 

\ 

\ 

\ 

\ 
\ 

s 

\ 
\ 

\ 

\ 
\ 

S 

\ 

u 

t 
_e 

52 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


FLIGHT  OF  STEPS. 

Purpose.  A  good  solid  flight  of  steps  is  often  needed  in 
many  places  about  the  home.  This  flight  is  easy  of  con- 
struction, and  by  changing  the  measurements  it  can  be  made 
to  fit  any  definite  place  or  purpose. 

Material. 

Two  pieces  2"xlO"xlO'  pine. 

One  piece  ^"xlO"x8'. 

One  piece  ^"x8"x!4'. 

One  piece  J^"x6"xl4'. 

One  piece  %"x6"x8'. 

One  piece  4"  ceiling  8'  long. 

A  number  of  16d.  and  8d.  common  nails,  also  6d.  casing  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Four  pieces  2"xlO"xS'  for  treads. 

(2)  Two  pieces  %"xlO"x3'9"  for  carriage. 

(3)  Three  pieces  %"x7!4"x4'8"  for  risers. 

(4)  One  piece  %"xS'/2"x4'8"  for  bottom  riser. 

(5)  Two  pieces  ^"xS^"x!7"  for  outside  braces. 

(6)  Two  pieces  7A"xSIA"x2'3y2"  for  outside  lower  braces. 

(7)  Two  pieces  H"x5l/2"x2'4"  for  inside  upper  braces. 

(8)  Two  pieces  %"x5"x2'4"  for  inside  lower  braces. 

(9)  Ten  pieces  ceiling,  two  of  each  as  follows:     14",  11",  9", 
6",  and  4". 


Tools.  Saws,  planes,  square,  try-square,  T-bevel,  and 
hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  to  dimensions  all  pieces  mentioned  in 
the  bill  of  stock.  Round  off  treads  \"  on  the  corners  as 
shown  in  the  drawing.  Lay  out  and  saw  boards  No.  2  in  the 
bill  of  stock.  To  mark  the  carriage  use  the  large  square 
at  an  angle  of  7|"  by  9".  The  height  of  each  riser  is  the 
same,  but  the  first -one  must  be  cut  2"  narrower,  or  the 
thickness  of  the  tread.  Mark  off  the  slant  on  the  back  and 
lower  outside  braces  to  fit  the  carriage,  or  support  for  the 
treads  and  risers.  Saw  the  pieces  of  ceiling  to  the  lengths 
given  in  the  bill  of  stock.  The  inner  braces  may  be  any 
suitable  width  and  of  old  materi-1. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  back  and  lower  inside  braces  to  the 
carriage.  Now  nail  on  the  outer  braces  flush  with  the  piece 
supporting  the  treads.  Nail  on  the  pieces  of  ceiling  begin- 
ning with  the  longest  pieces  at  the  back  and  working  toward 
the  front.  When  both  ends  have  been  completed  put  on  the 
risers.  Lastly  put  on  the  treads. 


PLATE  It 


A  FLIGHT  Or 


s-o- 


1-1 


w= 


r1 


10" 


CAK.R.IA.GE 


54 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


SAW  BUCK. 

Purpose.  An  excellent  article  which,  with  a  good  saw 
and  a  few  sticks  of  wood,  will  bring  sweat  to  the  brow  and 
good  red  blood  into  the  viens.  The  height  of  the  buck  may 
be  changed  to  suit  the  height  of  the  workman.  To  find  the 
correct  height,  place  an  ordinary  stick  of  cord  wood  on 
some  elevation,  take  a  good  sawing  position  with  the  knee 
on  the  stick.  A  few  trials  will  give  the  correct  height. 
Strength  and  stability  are  two  other  requirements. 

Material. 

One  piece  Wx3'/£"x9'8". 
One  piece  I54"xl^"xl8%". 
One  piece  ^"x!2^18". 
A  number  of  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
Four  pieces  \Wx3l/>"x2'S"  for  legs. 
One  piece  I%"xlj4"xl8j4"  for  cylinder. 
Three  pieces  %"x2"x!7j4"  for  braces. 
One  piece  %"x3"x!7j4"  for  brace. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  brace,  ly,  bit  or  extension  bit  set  to 
\\"  diameter,  chisel,  hammer,  T-bevel,  try-square,  rule  and 
knife. 

Directions.  Set  T-bevel  to  an  angle  of  13£"  x  11}"  on  the 
square.  (See  illustration,  Plate  II.)  Mark  off  and  cut  the 
four  legs.  Measure  down  11^"  from  the  upper  end  of  each 
leg  and  bore  holes.  Lay  two  legs  down  on  bench,  the 
holes  in  direct  line,  spread  bottoms  until  22i"  apart  at  outer 
edges  and  mark  the  joints  with  a  knife.  Cut  these  joints 
down  f"  deep.  Work  the  other  two  legs  in  same  manner. 
Round  up  ly  square  stick  to  diameter  of  \\".  Cut  other 
pieces  to  dimensions  given  in  bill  of  stock. 

Assembly.  Fit  legs  together  and  nail.  Put  in  round 
piece  connecting  the  two  pairs  of  legs.  Bevel  pieces  directly 


under  round  piece  to  fit,  and  nail.     Put  on  lower  brace  up 
from  floor  some  distance  and  nail. 


RABBIT  TRAP. 

Purpose.  The  happiest  time  in  a  boys  life  is  during  those 
years  when  he  lives  closest  to  nature,  tramping  thru  the 
woods,  hunting,  fishing,  trapping,  and  having  a  good  time 
generally.  There  are  many  rabbit  traps,  but  the  author  has 
found  this  to  be  the  best  trap  made.  The  small  isometric 
sketch  shows  the  trap  set.  It  is  baited  with  corn,  cabbage, 
or  apple,  the  bait  being  placed  behind  the  notched  stick  or 
trigger.  In  getting  the  bait  the  rabbit  must  touch  the  trig- 
ger which  releases  the  door  and  lets  it  fall  down  behind  the 
rabbit.  Most  boys  know  where  to  set  the  trap,  in  the 
orchard,  garden,  berry  patch  or  thicket. 

Material. 

One  piece  24"x6"x8'8"  pine. 

One  dowel  or  straight  stick  y%"  diameter  and  25"  long. 
A  number  of  8d.  common  nails,  1^4"  finishing  nails,  some  stout 
cord,  and  a  screw  eye. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  boy  will  find  it  best  to  make  out  his 
own  bill  of  stock  and  in  this  way  may  be  able  to  change 
the  dimensions  somewhat  in  order  to  make  it  conform 
better  with  the  material  he  may  have  in  hand. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  hammer,  brace,  \"  bit,  spokeshave, 
knife,  try-square  and  rule. 

Directions.  Cut  the  pieces  to  dimensions  given  in  draw- 
ing from  the  6"  board.  On  the  20J"  piece  lay  off  and  bore 
in  the  center  of  the  board  the  two  \"  holes  4J"  and  12}" 
from  the  end.  With  the  spokeshave  or  knife  cut  down  piece 
A,  the  support  for  door  and  trigger,  so  that  it  will  fit  the 
y  hole.  Also  saw  down  §"  V-shape  notch  shown  in  the 
front  view  of  the  drawing.  A  forked  stick  may  be  used 


J  AW  BUCK- 


r:?;: 


A 


PLATE  23 


RABBIT  TK.A.P 


c 

B                      "«*' 

r 

| 

A 


1 


13- 


J 


56 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


instead  of  A.  Cut  a  notch  in  the  upper  end  of  the  trigger 
to  hold  the  string.  Also  where  the  trigger  passes  thru  the 
\"  hole,  cut  a  notch  straight  into  the  stick,  then  slanting 
upward  allowing  plenty  of  room  for  play  of  the  trigger. 
This  notch  resembles  the  notch  in  a  boy's  willow  whistle, 
except  that  the  longer  cut  is  much  elongated. 

Assembly.  Nail  on  small  cleats  to  side  boards  to  form 
slide  for  door.  Nail  on  bottom  piece,  then  the  end  piece. 
Place  and  nail  on  top,  being  careful  that  the  holes  are 
toward  the  back.  Fit  door  so  that  it  slides  into  place  easily. 
Put  the  screw  eye  in  the  middle  of  the  top  edge  of  door. 
Put  in  upright  piece  that  supports  the  dowel  attached  to 
door  and  trigger.  With  stout  cord  tie  trigger  and  door  to 
dowel.  Adjust  so  that  when  the  trap  is  set  the  door  is 
raised  to  proper  height. 

PORCH  SWING. 

Purpose.  The  luxury  of  a  well  proportioned  and  roomy 
porch  swing  need  scarcely  be  spoken  of.  This  swing  is  long 
enough  to  accommodate  four  people.  It  is  also  wide,  making 
it  useful  for  a  lounging  place.  An  excellent  pad  for  the 
seat  may  be  made  by  folding  an  old  comfort  to  the  desired 
size  and  covering  it  with  burlap,  tufting  at  intervals  to 
prevent  bunching  of  the  comfort. 

Material. 

One  piece  !M"x3'/2"xl4'  oak  or  yellow  pine. 

One  piece  Wxl^"x6'2". 

One  piece  ^"x8"x!2'. 

One  piece  %"xlO"x8'. 

One  piece  %"x5"x!7^". 

Eight  M"x4"  bolts. 

A  number  of  screws  or  finishing  nails. 


Bill  of  Stock.  By  studying  the  drawing  carefully  the 
pupil  can  make  out  his  own  bill  of  stock. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  hammer,  rule,  square,  try-square, 
gage,  pencil,  brace,  §"  bit,  chisel,  screw-driver,  T-bevel  and 
wrench. 

Directions.  Work  the  piece  1J"  x  3£"  x  14'  into  the  two 
long  bottom  pieces;  bore  the  holes,  and  bevel  the  ends.  Saw 
the  \\"  x  \\"  piece  into  the  four  legs.  The  longer  pieces 
are  to  be  beveled  off  at  the  lower  ends.  Mark  two  sides 
that  are  especially  good  and  use  these  for  the  joint  sides,  or 
the  sides  in  which  you  put  the  mortises.  Lay  off  and  make 
mortises  from  measurements  given  in  drawing.  Make  the 
mortises  in  each  of  the  front  legs.  Make  all  mortises  and 
tenons  for  the  back  pieces.  Lay  out  these  pieces  with  the 
same  operation  to  avoid  setting  of  the  tools  so  often.  Saw 
and  plane  edges  of  pieces  for  bottom.  Model  the  arms  in 
the  manner  shown  in  the  detail. 

Assembly.  Fit  all  pieces  together  before  gluing  to  avoid 
errors.  Glue  the  back  support  pieces  together.  Fit  the  ends 
together  and  glue.  Glue  the  ends  to  the  back  support.  (The 
above  processes  may  be  done  at  the  same  time  if  enough 
clamps  are  available,  but  it  is  not  advisable.)  Holes  have 
already  been  bored  in  the  lower  supports.  Place  these 
pieces  in  position  and  with  a  punch,  or  pencil,  mark  the 
places  for  holes  in  the  legs.  Bore  these  holes  and  put  in 
the  bolts.  Nail  on  the  boards  for  the  seat  with  finishing 
nails,  setting  the  heads  a  little  below  the  surface.  The 
arms  should  be  put  on  either  with  screws  or  dowels. 


PLATE.  24 


DETAIL  OF  AR.M 


POUCH 


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58 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM    WOODWORK 


DOG  HOUSE. 

Purpose.  An  attractive  well-built  dog  house  adds  much 
to  the  appearance  of  the  premises,  and  to  the  comfort  of 
the  animals.  To  the  boy  who  likes  dogs,  this  problem  will 
appeal  strongly.  The  large  amount  of  house  construction  in 
the  problem  will  make  it  a  very  profitable  one  to  the  student. 

Material.  Yellow  pine  framing,  redwood  shingles  and 
siding. 

Two  pieces  2"x4"xl6'  studding. 

One  piece  2"x4"xl8'  studding. 

Three  pieces  J4"x6"xl6'  sheathing  No.  3  com. 

Four  pieces  J4"x6"xl4'  sheathing  No.  3  com. 

One  piece  J4"x4"x5'. 

One  piece  J4"x8"xl2'  No.  1  finishing. 

One  piece  34"x8"xlO'  No.  1  finishing. 

Seven  pieces  3'A"  siding  16'  long. 

One-half  bunch  shingles. 

An  assortment  of  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     This  project  differs  considerably  from  the 

ones  preceding  in  that  it  is  not  usual  to  cut  all  pieces  before 

beginning  work,  but  to  out  and  assemble  at  the  same  time. 

With  the  drawing  before  the  pupil  it  will  be  an  easy  matter 

•to  make  out  the  sizes  of  pieces  as  the  building  proceeds. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  rule,  square,  try-square,  gage,  cop- 
ing saw  and  hammer. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  First  make  the  frame  which  is 
made  of  studding.  Saw  the  studding  to  dimensions  and  nail 
together  with  16d.  common  nails.  Toe-nail  the  cross  pieces 
between  the  studding  at  the  bottom.  At  one  end  nail  in 


the  frame  for  the  opening.  Saw  and  nail  the  sheathing  on 
the  sides.  Lay  out  and  saw  the  rafters.  The  roof  angle  is 
45°,  or  a  so  called  half  pitch.  This  means  that  even  numbers 
will  be  taken  when  using  the  square.  You  will  notice  on 
the  drawing  that  1"  is  left  where  the  rafter  fits  over  the 
plate  or  corner  of  the  frame.  With  a  pencil-gage,  draw  a 
line  1"  from  the  edge  the  entire  length  of  the  rafter.  Use 
this  line  now  in  laying  out  the  rafter.  Using  this  line  as  a 
basis  and  15J"  on  each  arm  of  the  square,  draw  lines,  thus 
getting  the  upper  cut  and  the  one  that  rests  on  the  plate. 
At  the  point  where  this  line  crosses  the  1"  line  drop  a  second 
line  at  right  angles  to  it.  Measure  out  3"  and  draw  a  line 
parallel  to  the  last  line  drawn.  Cut  off  the  lower  end  of  the 
rafter  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Saw  out  this  rafter  care- 
fully and  use  it  as  a  pattern  in  laying  out  the  remainder  of 
the  rafters.  When  all  rafters  are  cut  nail  them  on,  one  pair 
flush  with  each  end  of  the  frame  and  one  pair  in  the  middle. 
Saw  out  and  nail  the  sheathing  on  the  ends.  Saw  and  nail 
on  the  roof  boards.  Make  the  corner  casings  to  dimensions, 
and  nail  at  each  corner;  likewise  the  casings  for  the  opening. 
The  two  outer  door  casings  are  curved  at  the  top  to  conform 
to  the  radii  shown  in  the  drawing.  Saw,  fit  and  nail  on  the 
siding,  3£"  siding  being  used.  Lap  \"  at  each  joint.  Lay 
out,  saw,  and  nail  on  the  gable  casings.  (Note  the  design 
shown  in  the  end  view  of  the  drawing.)  The  casing  is 
nailed  to  the  ends  of  the  roof  boards.  Saw  out  the  casings 
for  the  eaves  and  bevel  one  edge  on  each  piece  so  that  it  will 
fit  up  under  lower  roof  board.  Put  on  the  shingles  allowing 
4|"  to  the  weather.  Lastly  nail  on  the  saddle  boards.  Put 
on  two  good  coats  of  paint  to  match  the  farm  buildings. 


POG  HOU5E 


PLATE  25 


SHEATHING 


"n 


i- 


V- 


60 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


BREAD  CUTTING  BOARD. 

Purpose.  This  cutting  board  is  a  very  good  problem  for 
beginners,  and  it  is  an  article  that  will  prove  very  useful 
after  it  is  made. 

Material. 

One  piece  %"x8J4"xl6^"  pine. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  J4"x8"xl6". 

Tools.    Plane,  chisel,  try-square,  rule,  pencil  and  compass. 

Directions.  Plane  a  face  side  and  joint  edge.  Lay  off  and 
plane  the  piece  to  8"  wide.  Set  the  gage  to  J",  and  gage  for 
thickness.  Plane  to  middle  of  gage  lines.  Measure  off  the 
piece  to  16"  in  length,  but  do  not  finish  the  ends.  Set  the 
compass  to  a  4"  radius.  Draw  a  center  line  lengthwise. 
Measure  back  4"  from  each  end  on  the  center  line,  and  using 
these  points  as  centers,  describe  semi-circles.  Saw  off  cor- 
ners fairly  close  to  lines.  Chisel  carefully  to  lines,  and 
sandpaper. 

SWING  BOARD. 

Purpose.  This  board  is  constructed  so  that  it  is  reason- 
ably safe  and  will  not  slip  out  of  the  swing,  or  slide  between 
the  ropes.  It  is  an  excellent  problem  for  beginners. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  ^"xS"x22". 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  brace,  J"  bit, 
and  gage. 

Directions.  Lay  out  the  holes  and  notches  at  the  ends. 
Bore  the  holes  from  each  side  so  as  to  make  a  smooth  sur- 
face on  both  sides.  Saw  out  the  triangular  pieces  using  a  rip 
saw.  Saw  on  the  lines  with  care  as  the  surface  is  to  be  left 


just  as  sawed.  Notice  that  the  V-shaped  opening  is  formed 
so  that  the  rope  slips  thru  a  space  narrower  than  the  diam- 
eter of  the  hole. 

BENCH. 

Purpose.  This  bench,  altho  a  homely  appearing  article, 
will  be  a  joy  to  the  mother  of  the  boy  who  makes  it.  It  is 
light  and  easily  moved,  and  can  be  used  for  so  many  pur- 
poses. Two  tubs  sit  easily  on  the  bench  on  wash  day.  Placed 
out  doors  in  the  shade,  it  makes  a  fine  bench  for  use  in 
preparing  vegetables,  and  many  things  for  the  table.  It 
also  furnishes  a  fine  wash  bench  for  the  men  on  the  farm 
who  like  so  to  splash  water,  and  it  will  be  found  most  useful 
about  the  barn. 

Material. 

One  piece  -)4"xl4"x4'  pine. 

One  piece  .}4"xlO"x3'10". 

One  piece  ->4"xl2"x3'. 

Twenty  \y2"  No.  9  flat  heat  screws. 

Bill  of  Stock.    To  be  made  out  by  the  pupil. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  rule,  pencil,  brace,  J"  bit, 
screw-driver,  372"  drill,  and  counter  sink. 

Directions.  Saw  and  plane  all  pieces  to  dimensions  shown 
in  the  drawing.  Draw  a  center  line  thru  each  leg.  Measure 
off  from  one  end  8".  Measure  out  4"  from  the  same  line  and 
draw  the  triangle.  At  the  apex  of  this  triangle  bore  a  J" 
hole.  Rip-saw  carefully  on  the  lines  of  the  triangle,  as  the 
surfaces  are  to  be  left  just  as  sawed.  From  opposite  end 
of  the  leg  lay  off  on  each  edge  a  line  5"  from  end.  Set  gage 
to  J"  and  gage  to  this  line.  Saw  out  notch  carefully.  Notice 
that  the  braces  are  to  be  beveled  two  inches.  On  the  lower 
edge  lay  off  2",  connect  this  point  with  the  opposite  corner, 
draw  line  and  saw  off.  Lay  off  and  bore  holes  for  screws. 

Assembly.    Screw  side  braces  to  legs.    Put  on  the  top. 


F LATE  U. 


JVING  EOAR.T? 


BKEAD  CUTTING  BOARD 


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BENCH 


3-  z: 


62 


PFOBLEMS     IX     FARM     WOODWORK 


FLY  TRAP. 

Purpose.  This  fly  trap,  properly  baited,  will  catch  quarts 
of  flies  in  a  season.  Set  a  dish  of  sweetened  food  under  the 
trap,  and  keep  it  moist.  The  flies  attracted  to  the  food  fly 
up  thru  the  dark  tin  covered  part  below,  and  pass  thru  the 
small  hole  toward  light  above.  The  door  at  the  top  permits 
the  trap  being  emptied  at  any  time,  after  the  flies  are  first 
smoked  well.  A  trap  like  this  is  especially  good  for  porches 
where  flies  gather  when  attracted  by  cooking.  They  are  also 
excellent  in  grocery  stores  or  in  any  place  frequented  by  flies. 

Material.     Pine. 

(1)  One  piece  J4''xlO"x20". 

(2)  One  piece  ^"x6"x21". 

(3)  One  piece  tin  6^"x2'4lA". 

(4)  One  piece  screen  18"x3'. 

(5)  One  small  butt  hinge  with  screws. 

(6)  A  number  of  small  tacks,  also  6d.  common  nails. 

Tools.  Rip  and  crosscut-saw,  keyhole  saw,  coping  saw, 
plane,  wood  file,  gage,  rule,  pencil,  try-square,  screw-driver, 
and  hammer. 

Directions.  On  piece  No.  1  in  list  of  materials  lay  off  two 
circles  with  diameters  of  9".  Saw  these  to  the  line  with  the 


coping  saw.  On  one  piece  for  the  top  lay  off  another  circle, 
with  the  same  center,  with  a  4J"  diameter.  This  piece  must 
be  sawed  with  an  inward  slant  of  j"  as  shown  in  the  draw- 
ing. This  prevents  the  lid  from  slipping  thru.  With  a  small 
drill  bore  a  few  holes  so  that  the  key  hole  saw  may  be 
started.  Finish  with  key  hole  or  coping  saw.  On  the  other 
piece  lay  off  and  saw  a  circle  with  a  diameter  of  6",  the 
bevel  slanting  outward.  This  piece  is  taken  entirely  out  to 
give  place  for  the  screen  cone.  Work  out  the  legs. 

Assembly.  Shape  a  cone  out  of  the  screen  leaving  a  \" 
hole  at  the  top.  With  stout  cord  sew  the  screen  together : 
then  tack  it  in  at  the  bottom.  Make  it  all  perfectly  tight  so 
that  no  flies  can  by  any  .means  escape.  Carefully  tack  the 
screen  to  both  the  top  and  bottom,  leaving  the  lap  to  come 
beneath  one  of  the  legs.  Tack  on  the  tin  making  the  lap 
come  beneath  another  leg.  Nail  on  the  three  legs.  Put  the 
hinge  over  the  place  where  the  holes  were  bored  to  begin 
the  sawing  so  that  the  hinge  will  cover  any  open  space.  Op- 
posite the  hinge  put  on  a  small  wooden  button.  The  tin 
around  the  bottom  of  the  trap  makes  the  lower  part  dark  so 
that  the  flies  work  up  towards  the  light  and  pass  the  hole 
in  the  top  of  the  cone.  Darkening  the  lower  part  with  paper 
has  the  same  effect,  but  the  paper  does  not  last. 


PLATE  Z7 


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FLY  TEA? 


A  -WOOPEN 

S  -  HINGE 


64 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


IRONING  BOARDS. 

Purpose.  An  ironing  board  is  a  difficult  problem,  since  it 
must  be  as  light  and  as  easily  handled  as  it  is  possible  to 
make  it,  and  yet  possess  stability.  Board  No.  1  is  an  ex- 
cellent one  in  that  it  is  light  and  easily  handled  and  yet  it  is 
especially  stable.  The  absence  of  much  frame  work  under- 
neath makes  it  especially  fine  for  ironing  skirts  and  dresses, 
and  it  also  allows  a  basket  to  stand  underneath  the  large 
pieces  that  are  being  ironed.  The  board  is  fastened  to  a 
table  when  in  use,  the  wide  end  of  the  board  slipping  under 
the  edge  of  the  table.  The  long  leg  of  the  brace  then  slips 
up  thru  the  seven  inch  cut-out  place  on  the  wide  end  of  the 
board.  The  notch  on  this  brace  catches  hold  of  the  edge 
of  the  table,  and  the  weight  of  the  board  automatically  gives 
it  support.  When  not  in  use  this  board  folds  into  a  very 
small  space. 

Board  No.  2  is  less  stable  than  the  first  one,  is  heavier 
and  not  so  easily  handled,  yet  it  has  an  advantage  in  that 
it  can  be  set  into  any  desired  place  while  in  use. 

No.  1. 

Material.    Pine,  basswood,  or  yellow  poplar. 
One  piece  %"xl5"x4'S". 

s\__  .     _  • ->  /  //     1  r\n     **fr\» 


One  piece  %"x!5"x 
One  piece  %"xlO"x^y  . 
One  piece  %"xl2"xl7^". 
Two  pairs  1 1A"  butt  hingi 


es. 


Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  is  easily  made  out  from 
the  drawing. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  rule,  pencil,  chisel,  try-square,  square, 
brace,  small  drill,  coping  saw,  compass  and  screw-driver. 

Directions.  Lay  off  and  saw  all  pieces  to  dimensions 
given  in  the  drawing.  On  the  large  piece  for  the  ironing 
surface  measure  in  3f"  from  the  end  and  square  across. 


Set  gage  to  4",  and  gage  lines  along  each  edge  from  the  end 
of  the  line  just  drawn.  Saw  to  the  gage  lines  with  the  rip- 
saw and  on  the  cross  line  with  the  coping  saw.  At  the  op- 
posite end  measure  in  from  each  edge  2|",  measure  back 
15"  from  the  end,  and  connect  these  points.  Saw  and  plane 
to  the  line  just  made,  and  slightly  round  the  corners. 
Measure  in  10"  from  one  end  of  the  long  brace  and  witli 
the  compass  set  at  1J",  and  using  this  point  as  a  center, 
describe  an  arc.  Extend  this  line  from  this  point  to  the  end 
of  the  board  with  a  gage.  Repeat  on  opposite  side  of  the 
board,  and  saw  to  the  line.  At  the  opposite  end  of  the 
board,  measure  in  f"  and  2|",  and  draw  lines  across,  using 
the  square.  Saw  down  \"  on  the  first  line,  and  beginning 
back  at  the  2j"  line,  chisel  in  a  slanting  line  to  the  bottom 
of  the  saw  kerf  just  made.  This  makes  the  notch  which 
catches  onto  the  table  edge. 

Assembly.  Put  on  the  cross  braces  with  screws  at  the 
positions  shown  in  the  drawing.  Screw  on  the  7"  cross 
piece  on  the  long  brace.  Hinge  on  the  connecting  brace  to 
the  long  brace.  The  other  end  of  connecting  brace  is  hinged 
to  the  under  cross  strip  of  the  ironing  board. 

No.  2. 

Material.     Same  as  in  previous  problem. 
One  piece  %"x!4"xlO'. 
One  piece  ^"xl^"x3'4". 
One  piece  !J4"xl%"x4". 
Several  VA"  screws  and  small  brads. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 


01  OIOCK.  rmisneu 
One  piece  ^-g"xl5"x4'8". 
Two  pieces  %"xl^"x4'3". 
Two  pieces  %"xl?4"x27". 
Two  pieces  %"xm"x2'^". 
One  piece  "'" 

Two  pieces 


sions. 

Two  pieces  #"xlWx2ff'. 

One  piece  \^"xl^"x4". 
One  piece  Yn,"  diameter  x  1/74 
One  piece  Y\'  diameter  x  11  !4" 
One  piece  Y\'  diameter  x  16". 


FLATE  Z8 


IRONING  BOARDS 


No.l 


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66 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


Tools.  Saws,  plane,  rule,  pencil,  gage,  wood  file,  brace, 
3"  bit,  chisel,  try-square,  screw-driver  and  hammer. 

Directions.  You  will  notice  that  all  material  except  the 
top  is  If"  and  that  instead  of  measuring  from  the  ends  of 
pieces  the  centers  of  holes  are  used.  Rip-saw  and  plane  all 
pieces  to  dimensions  in  bill  of  stock.  Lay  off  and  bore  holes 
to  dimensions  indicated,  shaping  the  ends  as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  The  top  may  be  modelled  to  suit  worker,  the 
drawing  being  a  suggestion.  Plane  down  the  rounds,  or 
better  still,  turn  them  out  on  a  lathe.  Care  must  be  taken 
to  make  all  joints  fit  snugly  to  keep  the  board  from  wobbling 
when  in  use. 


SCREENS. 

Purpose.  While  these  two  screens  may  be  used  for  their 
original  purpose  of  screening  doors  and  windows,  it  is  also 
entirely  possible  to  vary  the  proportions  of  the  screens  so 
that  they  may  be  used  in  outdoor  sleeping  porches  and  all 
kinds  of  screened  porches  and  rooms. 


Door  Screens. 

Material. 

(1)  Two  pieces  Wx3"x6'10"  pine. 

(2)  One  piece  l^"x6"x2'S^". 

(3)  One  piece  l^"x4'4"x2'S'/<". 

(4)  One  piece  Il£"x3"x2'5^". 

(5)  One  piece  I^"x2"xril!/z". 

The  above  pieces  may  all  be  made  from  a  board 
I^"xl2"x8'. 

(6)  One  piece  galvanized  screen  6'3"  cut  from  roll  30"  wide. 

(7)  Two  pieces  of  molding  14"  long. 

(8)  A  number  of  1"  finishing  nails,  also  a  number  of  2  oz. 

tacks. 

(9)  Glue. 


Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Two  pieces  I^"x2^4"x6'8"  for  sides. 

(2)  On  piece  \y&"\S'A"x2'5'A"  for  bottom  cross  piece. 

(3)  One  piece  l^"x4"x2'5;X"  for  middle  cross  piece. 

(4)  One  piece  I^"x2%"x2'5j4"  for  lower  cross  piece. 

(5)  One  piece  lJ^"xlJ4"xl'llJ-i"  for  lower  brace. 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  rule,  try-square,  gage,  brace,  \"  bit, 
y  chisel,  hammer,  knife,  and  small  hand  made  miter-box. 

Directions.  Rip-saw  from  the  piece  of  pine  two  pieces 
I"  x  3"  x  6'10".  Plane  one  edge  on  each.  Put  both  pieces 
in  the  vise,  the  planed  edges  upward,  and  mark  out  the 
mortises.  These  lengths  are  2"  longer  than  the  finished 
pieces.  Leave  the  extra  inch  at  each  end  until  ready  to  fit 
screen  to  opening.  Rip  out  pieces  Nos.  2,  3,  4,  mentioned  in 
list  of  materials.  Finish  No.  3  to  exact  dimensions.  Plane 
one  edge  of  Nos.  2  and  4.  Lay  out  and  make  tenons  on  last 
three  pieces,  Nos.  2,  3,  and  4  in  bill  of  stock.  Plane  piece 
No.  5  to  correct  dimensions  and  lay  out  and  make  tenonc. 
Of  all  these  pieces  only  Nos.  3  and  5  are  finished  to  correct 
widths.  The  other  pieces  should  be  left  over-sized  and  un- 
finished on  the  outer  edges  until  the  screen  is  finished  and 
ready  to  be  fitted  to  the  particular  opening  for  which  it  is 
made. 

Assembly.  Glue  the  parts  together.  As  the  screen  will 
necessarily  have  to  stand  considerable  weathering,  put  a 
few  1"  brads  into  the  joints. 

Put  on  the  wire  screening  with  tacks,  stretching  as  evenly 
and  tightly  as  possible.  Put  it  on  in  one  piece. 

Miter  and  put  on  molding.  Cut  off  extra  screening  with 
sharp  knife,  also  screening  between  sections. 

Fit  screen  to  opening. 

Remark:  The  frames  and  molding  should  be  painted 
before  the  screening  is  put  on,  except  the  outside  edges  of 
the  frame.  These  edges  may  be  painted  after  fitting  if 
desired. 


PLATE 


DOOR,  JCIEEN 


WINDOW 


SECTION  OF  AOUJINS 


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68 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


Window  Screen. 

Purpose.  This  type  of  screen  is  coming  more  and  more 
into  use.  It  has  an  advantage  over  the  old  half  screen  in 
that  the  upper  and  lower  sashes  may  be  raised  and  lowered 
at  will. 

Material. 

(1)  Two  pieces  H"x2y2"xS'4". 

(2)  One  piece  %"x3^"x20". 

(3)  One  piece  7/s"x2^"x20". 

(4)  One  piece  ^"xl^"x20". 

The  above  pieces  may  be  made  from  a  board 


(5)  One  piece  galvanized  screening  4'11"  cut  from  a  roll  20" 

wide. 

(6)  Two  pieces  of  molding,  one  10'  and  the  other  8'. 

(7)  A  number  of  ~/i"  brads  and  2  oz.  tacks,  also  some  glue. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  may  be  made  out  by  the 
pupil.  Make  an  allowance  of  2",  as  in  the  door  screen,  for 
the  side  pieces. 

The  tools,  directions  and  assembly  are  the  same  as  in  the 
previous  problem. 

KITCHEN  TABLE. 

Purpose.  This  table  is  an  excellent  one  for  the  kitchen 
and  it  can  be  made  as  much  larger  as  is  desired.  It  is  also 
suitable  for  a  student's  table.  From  the  construction  stand- 
point it  affords  an  application  for  the  earlier  exercise  work, 
since  it  contains  good  work  in  planing  tapers,  making  mor- 
tise-and-tenon  joints  and  glue  joints.  It  also  contains  work 
in  drawer  construction,  and  the  common  commercial  form  of 
joint  as  shown  in  the  detail. 

Material.    Pine. 

One  piece  2l/2"x  2Y2"xW. 
One  piece  H"x\2"xl&. 
One  piece  J4"x3j4"x3'10". 
One  piece  plaster  board  \51A 


One  piece  zinc  2'6"x3'6". 

Four  lag-screws  Ji"x4!4". 

A  number  of  1J4"  screws  and  6d.  casing  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  To  make  out  a  bill  of  stock  adds  greatly  to 
the  power  of  the  student,  hence  the  bill  has  been  left  out. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  rule,  pencil,  try-square,  gage,  chisel, 
brace,  f"  and  -fg"  bits,  screw-driver,  hammer,  gouge  and 
plow. 

Directions.  Measure  down  5"  on  the  legs  and  pencil 
around  the  leg.  Select  two  opposite  sides  to  plane  first. 
Measure  in  from  each  corner  on  the  floor  end  and  connect 
with  the  ends  of  the  above  lines  to  give  the  slant  of  the 
legs.  Plane  down  to  the  lines.  Two  sides  being  planed, 
lay  off  and  plane  the  two  other  sides  in  the  same  manner, 
the  leg  thus  being  2\"  square  at  the  top  and  down  5",  then 
tapering,  to  1^"  square  at  the  lower  end.  Lay  out  and  make 
the  mortises  §"  wide  and  3"  long,  the  mortises  beginning 
1"  from  the  top  of  the  leg  in  each  case.  Rip-saw  and  plane 
to  dimensions  the  sides  and  ends.  Lay  out  and  make  the 
tenons  at  each  end.  Saw  and  chisel  out  a  \"  joint  3"  from 
the  beginning  of  the  tenon.  This  forms  a  groove  across  the 
width  of  the  boards.  (See  detail  of  joint  in  drawing.)  On 
one  side  saw  out  an  opening  3|"  x  16"  for  a  drawer.  Fit 
the  joints  together  to  see  that  all  fit  tightly.  While  the 
table  is  still  in  this  position  make  the  corner  braces  and  put 
them  in  place  to  be  sure  that  they  fit.  Saw  out  and  join  the 
pieces  for  the  top.  Make  the  runners  and  also  the  drawer 
as  shown  in  the  detail.  Plow  out  a  \"  x  \"  groove  on  the 
front  and  side  pieces  \"  from  the  lower  edge  and  fit  in  a 
piece  of  plaster  or  compo  board  for  the  bottom.  Fit  a  \" 
piece  and  nail  it  in  at  the  rear  end.  This  forms  a  drawer 
that  has  no  wide  cracks  in  the  bottom,  and  being  nailed, 
it  cannot  slide  out.  Make  a  small  4"  handle  with  a  plane 
and  gouge. 


PLATE  30 


DETAIL  OF  JOINT 


^fe— 5C 


DETAILS  OF  DKAWIX, 


TABLE 


In 


Z  IKC 


2-A'- 


,t 


irt" 


-rL 


C. 


U 


A  -  RUNNETL  TDK.  DK.AWER_ 


l£f 


ir 


70 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


Assembly.  Glue  the  legs,  sides,  braces,  and  ends  to- 
gether, doing  this  all  at  one  glueing.  When  the  glue  has 
set  bore  a  £"  hole  thru  the  corner  brace,  and  in  the  same 
direction  bore  a  -fa"  hole  in  the  leg,  and  screw  in  place 
the  f"  x  4-i"  lag-screw.  Put  the  drawer  runners  together 
with  screws  and  either  nail  in  place  with  finishing  nails  or 
with  screws  from  the  under  inside  in  a  slanting  direction. 
Nail  together  the  drawer,  and  put  on  the  handle  with  two 
screws  trom  the  inside.  Glue  together  and  nail  the  top. 
Fit  the  zinc  to  the  top,  fitting  the  corners  carefully  and  tack 
it  on. 

KITCHEN  SINK. 

Purpose.  This  sink  has  been  designed  for  the  farm  home 
where  there  is  no  water  system.  The  top  part  is  made 
water  tight  but  without  a  drain.  Water  may  be  spilled 
into  the  sink  while  using  but  it  must  be  wiped  out.  The 
lower  part  is  arranged  for  the  bulky  kitchen  utensils.  One 
shelf  is  provided,  while  the  floor  is  used  for  the  lower  shelf. 

Material.    White  pine  and  fir  ceiling. 
Nine  pieces  5i"x4"xlO'  fir  ceiling. 
Two  pieces  %"x4"xl2'  fir  ceiling. 
One  piece  ?g"xl2"xl2'. 
One  piece  molding  10'  long. 
Two  pairs  \1/?"  butt  hinges. 
Two  cupboard  catches. 
An  assortment  of  nails  and  some  white  lead. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Four  pieces  %"x2"x3'2'4"  for  lengthwise  part  of  frame. 

(2)  Four  pieces  %"x2"xl53^"  for  ends  of  frame. 

(3)  Two  pieces  Zi"x2"xl3%"  for  cross  pieces  of  frame. 


(4)  Two  pieces  %"x6"x3'5"  for  lengthwise  part  of  sink. 

(5)  Two  pieces  %"x6"x!5!/2"  for  end  of  sink. 

(6)  On  piece  %"xl5J4"x3'4"  for  floor  of  sink. 

(7)  Twenty-seven  pieces  5i"x4"x2'2"  fir  ceiling. 

(8)  Ten  pieces  %"x4"x22"  fir  ceiling  for  doors. 

(9)  One  piece  ^"xlS^"x3'3^"  for  shelf. 

(10)  Two  pieces  %"x2"x2'5"  for  casing  over  and  under  doors. 

(11)  One  piece  ?g"x2"x22"  for  casing  between  doors. 

(12)  Four  pieces  H"x2"xl3"  for  nail  ties  for  doors. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  plow,  rule,  pencil,  square,  try-square, 
screw-driver,  small  miter-box,  chisel,  gage,  and  hammer. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  The  sink  is  made  in  two  parts. 
The  upper  or  water  tight  part,  and  the  lower  cabinet  part. 
In  making  the  upper  part  plow  a  groove  f"  wide  and  f" 
deep  in  each  of  the  two  sides  and  end  pieces  H"  up  from 
the  lower  edge,  as  shown  in  the  detail  of  corner.  When  thru 
with  the  grooves  make  the  joints  as  shown  in  the  detail  of 
the  corner.  Fit  together  to  see  that  all  joints  are  tight. 
Before  nailing  together  put  white  lead  in  all  the  joints. 

Saw  and  plane  the  frame  pieces  Nos.  1,  2,  and  3  in  bill 
of  stock  to  exact  dimensions.  Nail  together  both  sections. 
Cut  the  fir  ceiling  to  lengths  given  in  No.  7  in  bill  of  stock. 
Nail  on  the  back  ceiling  first,  the  pieces  coming  flush  with 
the  end  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Likewise  nail  on  the  end 
pieces.  Nail  in  the  shelf.  Nail  on  the  two  outside  pieces  of 
ceiling  on  each  side ;  then  the  upper  and  lower  casings  in 
front,  and  the  casing  between  the  doors.  Make  the  doors 
separately,  fit  to  the  opening,  and  then  put  on  the  hinges 
and  cupboard  catches.  Lastly  lay  off  the  molding  to 
lengths,  miter  the  corners  carefully,  and  nail  on  with  finish- 
ing nails,  setting  the  nails  slightly  beneath  the  surface. 


PL  ATE  31 


DETAIL  OF  CORNER- 


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r 

r*  —  '  —  * 

^ 

4° 
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'Z-^s^S/'// 

ES2 

KlTCffiN  3INK. 


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^ 

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1 

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1 

VHELF 

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DOOIW   13i'XZE" 

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,/AAE.  FRAME  AT  TOP  -^ 
!^X          /                  _\ 

/ 

1 

'(0 

Kj 


72 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


KITCHEN  CABINET. 

Purpose.  There  are  many  kinds  of  kitchen  cabinets,  and 
the  one  given  here  is  meant  only  as  a  guide.  Each  farm 
kitchen  has  its  own  suitable  place  for  the  cabinet,  and  the 
proportion  and  size  should  fit  the  place  intended  for  it. 
Often  an  unused  door  opening  can  be  utilized,  affording  a 
cabinet  which  opens  between  kitchen  and  dining  room  or 
kitchen  and  pantry.  The  number  and  size  of  the  shelves 
too  may  be  varied  to  suit  the  individual  needs  of  the  house- 
wife. 

Material. 

Seventeen  pieces  4"  ceiling  14'  long. 
One  piece  11A"  molding  9'  long. 
Two  pieces  J4"xl2"xl4'. 
Five  pieces  ^"x!2"xlO'. 
One  piece  ^"xlO"x!4'. 
One  piece  M"xlO"xlO'. 
Four  cupboard  catches. 

Four  pairs  of  butt  hinges,  also  a  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  finish- 
ing nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Two  pieces  ^"x24"x67*T  for  sides. 

(2)  Two  pieces  J4"xlO"x3'1154"  for  upper  outside  casing. 

(3)  Two  pieces  f£"xlO"x2'6"  for  lower  outside  casing. 

(4)  One  piece  54"x2j4"x3'4"  for  lower  casing. 

(5)  One  piece  %"xl!^"x3'4". 

(6)  One  piece  J4"x2^"x5'. 

(7)  One  piece  ^"x2"x3'll'4". 

(8)  One  piece  ^"x2"x2/6". 

(9)  One  piece  J4"x7"x5'  for  front  projection. 


(10)  Two  pieces  J4 

(11)  Four  pieces  J4 

(12)  One  piece  %"x!8"x5'  for  top. 

(13)  Eight  pieces  J4"x3"xl9"  for  braces  for  doors. 


for  lower  shelves, 
for  upper  shelves. 


Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  gage, 
screw-driver,  gimlet  bit,  hammer  and  miter-box. 

Directions.  Glue  12"  boards  together  to  make  two  ends, 
mentioned  in  No.  1  in  bill  of  stock.  Saw  out  the  piece  6i|-" 
x  4' If"  from  each  and  use  this  scrap  in  making  smaller  parts 
such  as  Nos.  4,  5,  7  and  8.  Work  out  all  other  pieces  to 
dimensions  given.  The  shelving  need  not  be  glued  unless 
so  desired.  Make  the  four  doors  slightly  longer  than  the 
dimensions  needed,  and  fit  them  to  the  openings  when 
ready  to  hang. 

Assembly.  Lay  the  two  ends  on  the  floor  with  the  back 
edge  down  and  nail  on  the  top  piece,  then  the  shelves,  the 
lower  one  first.  It  is  best  to  rest  the  shelves  on  a  small 
\"  x  f"  cleat,  but  it  is  possible  to  nail  them  thru  the  out- 
side, setting  the  nails  carefully  so  that  the  appearance  is 
good.  Nail  on  the  ceiling  at  the  back.  You  are  now  ready 
to  begin  casing  the  front.  Put  in  the  two  lower  upright  10" 
casing,  then  the  lower  cross  casing  and  lastly  the  upright 
middle  casing.  Above  the  projection  put  on  the  casing  un- 
der the  molding,  then  the  outer  10"  casing  and  lastly  the 
middle  upright  casing.  Miter  the  joints  of  the  molding  at 
the  front  corners,  and  nail  it  all  on.  Fit  doors  to  openings. 
Put  on  the  hinges,  being  careful  that  the  screws  go  through 
into  the  under  braces.  Lastly  put  on  the  cupboard  catches. 


PLATE  3Z 

KITCHEN  CABINET 

CUPBOARP  CA.TCHE: 

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1 

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-  \y  •-—  10"-- 

r 

J 

•£ 

74 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


ARTICLES  FOR  THE  GARDEN. 

Purpose.  The  articles  here  given  are  needed  in  almost 
every  garden.  The  five  problems  shown  will  furnish  a  good 
beginners  course,  especially  in  a  rural  school. 

The  row  marker  and  shrub  label  are  small  beginning 
problems. 

This  tomato  trellis  is  the  best  of  many  frames  for  raising 
tomatoes.  The  construction  will  possibly  take  a  little  more 
time  the  first  year,  but  it  is  a  great  time  saver,  considering 
the  number  of  years  one  of  these  may  be  used. 

The  transplanter  is  used  is  setting  out  cabbages,  toma- 
toes, and  any  other  plants  or  flowers. 

The  trellis  for  a  small  vine  is  a  type.  The  dimensions 
may  be  changed  to  suit  the  vine  for  which  it  is  made. 


Row  Marker. 

The  list  of  materials  and  the  bill  of  stock  are  left  out  in 
each  case  as  a  glance  at  the  drawing  will  suffice. 

Directions.  Plane  the  piece  to  dimensions  and  lay  it  off 
as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Saw  outside  the  lines  and  plane 
smooth. 

Shrub  Label. 

Directions.  Lay  off  as  shown  in  drawing  and  finish  with 
a  knife. 

Tomato  Trellis. 

Material.  Any  cheap  lumber  such  as  crates,  boxes,  etc. 
Tools.    Saws,  gage,  rule,  pencil,  try-square,  and  hammer. 


Directions.  Work  all  pieces  to  dimensions  given  in  the 
drawing.  Make  one  complete  side.  Place  the  two  legs  for 
the  other  side  in  position  with  reference  to  the  finished 
side,  and  nail  the  pieces  together  to  form  the  second  side. 
(This  is  done  to  make  sure  the  trellis  will  fold.)  Drive  in 
a  nail  at  each  end  and  bend  over  the  point.  This  nail  will 
act  as  a  hinge. 

Transplanter. 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  knife,  gage,  rule,  pencil,  brace,  1"  bit, 
wood  file,  draw-knife,  hammer  and  try-square. 

Directions.  On  the  larger  piece  measure  in  \"  and  pencil 
around  the  piece  using  the  try-square.  In  the  center  of  one 
side  at  one  end  bore  a  1"  hole  thru  the  piece.  Beginning 
down  2"  cut  the  remainder  of  the  piece  down,  with  a  draw- 
knife,  first,  to  a  four  sided  figure,  then  eight  sided  and  lastly 
to  a  round  cone-shaped  figure.  Round  off  the  edges  with  a 
wood  file.  Saw  off  the  ends,  using  the  lines  made  at  the 
beginning.  This  cuts  away  the  top  half  of  the  bored  hole, 
leaving  the  upper  end  to  be  shaped  as  shown  in  the  end 
view  of  the  drawing. 

Make  a  cylinder  of  the  1"  x  1"  x  4"  piece.  Place  the 
cylinder  in  the  end,  and  nail,  setting  the  nails  beneath  the 
surface  so  as  not  to  injure  the  hands. 

Trellis  for  Small  Vine. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  gage,  rule,  try-square,  pencil  and 
hammer. 

Directions.  Taper  the  center  upright,  beginning  about  6" 
from  the  end.  Finish  the  other  pieces  to  dimensions  shown 
in  the  drawing,  and  with  8d.  common  nails,  nail  on  the  cross- 
pieces  leaving  a  space  of  1"  at  the  top,  and  6"  between  the 
other  pieces  in  the  order  shown  in  the  drawing. 


TlLARSPLAN  TEK-, 


FOIL  THE  GAK.PEN 


5HK.UB  LABEL 


ir\j- 

-W 

L 


loA\ATO   TRELLIS 

To  BE  FOLPEP  WHEN  NOT  INC&E 


•A'All. 


PLATE  33 


FOE,  5A\ALt,  VINE, 


-R- 


.n 


-20"- 


L 


8    - 


76 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


LADDERS. 

Purpose.  The  step  ladder  here  given  is  especially  de- 
signed to  be  made  in  the  shop.  It  does  not  require  the 
patented  iron  folders  nor  the  iron  frame  at  the  top.  The 
iron  rod  may  be  cut  and  threaded  in  any  ordinary  shop. 

The  second  ladder  is  made  especially  for  picking  fruit. 
The  long  sharp  upper  end  may  be  slid  into  the  fork  of  a 
limb,  thus  saving  the  limbs  from  being  spread  apart  and 
broken.  There  is  less  chance  for  fruit  being  knocked  off  the 
tree,  and  much  less  chance  for  accidents. 

Step  Ladder. 

Material.    Pine. 

One  piece  ^''xS'xKX. 

One  piece  ^"x8"x5'. 

One  %"xl7"  rod  with  a  nut  at  each  end. 

One  %"  rope  3'4"  long. 

A  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

(1)     Two  pieces  J4"x3^"xS'  for  supports  for  steps. 

Four  steps  J4"x3^"x  one  each  of  14J4*,  14^",  15J4"  and  15%". 

(3)  One  piece  J4"x41/2"xl7"  for  top. 

(4)  Two  pieces  ^"xl%"x4'ir  for  braces  to  steps. 

(5)  Two  pieces  ^"xl^"x3'4^"  for  cross  braces. 

(6)  Three  pieces  'A"x\lA"x  one  each  of  17^",16^",  and  16* 

for  braces. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  chisel,  rule,  pencil,  try-square,  T- 
bevel,  brace,  \"  bit,  gage  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  and  plane  all  pieces  to  dimensions  given 
in  bill  of  stock.  Set  the  T-bevel  at  an  angle  of  75°.  Place 
the  bevel  at  one  end  of  the  board  used  for  support  of  steps 
to  get  the  angle  of  the  base.  Measure  up  11^"  and  12"  and 
draw  a  line  at  the  set  angle  to  mark  position  for  first  step. 
Continue  this  to  the  end  of  the  piece.  Lay  out  the  similar 


board  in  the  same  way,  remembering  that  the  notches  cut 
for  the  steps  are  to  be  on  the  inside.  Set  the  gage  to  \" 
and  gage  along  each  edge  between  the  lines  just  drawn  to 
mark  place  for  the  notches.  Saw  down  to  the  gage  line 
and  chisel  out  the  wood  between  the  lines.  Bore  a  \"  hole 
at  the  top  |"  from  the  end  and  $"  from  the  edge.  In  sawing 
the  steps  to  the  desired  length  be  sure  they  have  the  proper 
angle.  Bevel  the  pieces  No.  4  in  bill  of  stock  at  one  end, 
and  at  the  other  end  bore  a  \"  hole  \"  from  the  end,  and 
round  off  the  corners. 

Assembly.  Put  the  steps  and  side  pieces  together  with 
\\"  No.  9  screws.  Nail  on  the  top.  Nail  the  cross  braces, 
No.  6  in  bill  of  stock,  to  the  braces,  and  also  No.  4  at  the 
distances  shown  in  the  drawing.  Hold  the  cross  braces  in 
position,  mark  the  angles  at  the  ends,  and  saw.  Nail  them 
on  over  the  middle  crosspiece.  This  gives  an  arch  effect 
to  the  brace  as  a  whole  which  allows  light  pieces  to  be 
used  and  still  be  of  sufficient  strength. 

Fruit  Picking  Ladder. 
Material.     Pine. 

Two  pieces  V/2'\2'A"x\2'. 

One  piece  \*A" x3]/->" x4' . 

One  piece  ^"x8"x8'  for  steps. 

Two  bolts  ^"x7^". 

A  number  of  8d.  nails  or  V/z"  screws. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  is  almost  the  same  as  the 
list  of  material. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  T-bevel,  gage,  rule,  pencil,  brace, 
f"  bit,  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Round  off  the  upper  ends  of  the  long  ladder 
pieces  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  The  short  upper  end 
piece  should  have  the  width  tapered  from  3^"  at  one  end  to 
\\"  at  the  other.  From  each  side  at  one  end  measure  in  1" 


PLATE  34 


FRUIT  PICKING  LADPEIL. 


JlDE  VlEW 


78 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


and  draw  lines  to  the  corresponding  corner  at  the  other  end. 
Saw  and  plane  down  to  the  lines.  The  ladder  pieces  and  end 
pieces  lap  one  foot.  Bore  two  f "  holes,  one  about  \\"  from 
lower  end  and  the  other  about  3"  from  the  upper  end. 
Mark  and  bore  the  holes  in  the  center  piece  and  put  in  the 
bolts. 

Assembly.  Put  on  the  lower  step  which  is  21"  long.  The 
steps  are  12"  apart.  It  is  best  to  make  the  steps  plenty 
long  and  then  saw  them  off  after  they  have  been  nailed  or 
screwed  on. 

POTATO   MARKER. 

Purpose.  This  marker  is  an  almost  indespensable  article 
where  potatoes  are  raised.  It  marks  three  rows  with  one 
operation,  and  at  the  same  time  marks  a  fourth  row  which 
is  used  by  the  driver  in  making  the  next  set  of  rows.  While 
this  marker  is  made  primarily  for  potato  planting,  more 
holes  may  be  bored  in  the  cross  pieces,  allowing  the  runners 
to  be  set  at  any  desired  width.  By  using  different  weights, 
any  depth  of  row  may  be  made.  The  tongue  and  pin  from 
the  regular  farm  wagon  are  used. 

Material.     Pine  with  oak  runners. 
One  piece  2"x6"^7". 
Two  pieces  2"x4"x8'. 
One  piece  2"x4"x4'4". 
One  piece  3"xlO"x2l". 
One  piece  %"x3^"x5'9". 
One  dozen  lag-screws  $i"x4'A". 
One  3"  ring  made  from  y2"  stock. 
Thirty  inches  1A"  round  Norway  iron. 
A  number  of  lOd.  and  20d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  is  almost  identical  with 
the  above  list  of  materials. 


Tools.  Saws,  plane,  chisel,  rule,  square,  pencil,  brace, 
•&",  f"  and  $"  bits,  monkey  wrench  and  forging  tools. 

Directions.  In  making  the  runners  measure  back  6"  on 
an  edge  and  draw  a  line  to  the  opposite  corner,  and  saw. 
In  making  the  other  runners  one  sawing  will  make  the  slant 
for  two  runners.  On  the  8'  crosspiece  find  the  center,  and 
with  square  draw  a  line  across.  Measure  3'  and  3'6"  on  each 
side  of  this  line  and  draw  lines  across,  as  in  the  middle. 
Bore  two  f "  holes  on  each  line.  To  shape  the  guide  marker, 
measure  in  4"  on  each  edge  and  draw  a  line  to  the  opposite 
corner.  In  the  center  on  the  upper  edge  measure  1J"  on 
each  side  of  the  point,  and  draw  lines  across.  Saw  down 
J"  and  chisel  out  the  notch  so  as  to  let  the  £"  marker  ex- 
tension bit  flush  with  the  surface.  Nail  this  piece  to  the 
marker.  Measure  from  the  center  of  the  marker  3"  and 
3'6"  and  bore  \"  holes  in  the  middle.  Make -a  3"  iron  ring. 
Bend  the  iron  rod  as  shown  in  the  drawing;  flatten  each 
end,  bore  a  \"  hole  at  each  end,  and  nail  or  screw  to  the 
marker,  being  sure  that  the  ring  is  put  in  before  nailing 
down  permanently. 

Assembly.  Place  the  runners  in  position  and  put  over 
these  the  crosspiece.  Mark  the  holes  and  bore  -fg"  holes 
at  each  place.  Put  in  the  lag  screws.  Place  the  holders  for 
the  wagon  tongue  in  position  using  the  measurements  shown 
in  the  drawing,  but  before  nailing  down,  bore  two  holes 
for  the  wagon  pin  7\"  from  the  front  end.  Bore  a  \"  hole 
in  the  upper  edge  of  the  two  outside  runners  in  about  the 
position  shown  in  the  top  and  end  views  in  the  drawing. 
Drive  in  a  \"  piece  of  iron  leaving  it  to  extend  about  2 
above  the  runner.  The  guide  marker  slips  over  this  rod 
when  in  use. 

In  using  the  guide  marker  tie  a  small  rope  into  the  ring 
and  a  check  at  the  other  end  to  hook  into  the  single-tree. 
This  guide  marker  is  taken  off  at  each  end  of  the  row  and 
placed  on  the  opposite  side. 


PLATE  35 


O  3" RING 


'x/ii  LAG  JCK.EWLJ 


3-C"  HOLE,? 
foK_  COK.K 


80 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


GARDEN  MARKER. 

Purpose.  As  the  country  is  becoming  more  thickly  set- 
tled, and  farm  work  is  getting  to  be  more  intensive ;  the 
truck  farm  and  market  garden  is  coming  into  a  prominent 
place  as  a  means  of  livlihodd.  This  marker  is  designed  for 
use  on  this  kind  of  farm,  and  its  convenience  makes  it  well 
worth  the  trouble  of  making.  By  shifting  the  runners  and 
fastening  with  the  movable  pins,  any  width  row  can  be 
made. 


Material. 

(1)  One  piece  I%"x7"x&  pine. 

(2)  One  piece  I}4"x4"x2'. 

(3)  One  piece  I"x4"x5'4". 

(4)  One  piece  I'4"x6"x7'4". 

(5)  One  piece  I"x4"x4'2". 


(1)  One  piece  I^"x7"x6'  f 

(2)  One  piece  I}4"x4"x2'. 

(3)  One  piece  I"x4"x5'4". 

(4)  One  piece  I'4"x6"x7'4" 

(5)  One  piece  I"x4"x4'2". 

(6)  Four  pins  fi"x6". 

A  number  of  8d.  and  lOd.  common  nails. 


Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Three  pieces  Ij4"x7"x2'  for  runners. 

(2)  Three  pieces  l^"xlJ4"x2'  for  tops  of  runners. 

(3)  Two  pieces  I"x2"x5'  for  handles. 

(4)  One  piece  I"x4"x2'10"  for  support  for  handles. 

(5)  I^"x3"x7'4"  for  runner  stays. 

(6)  Two  pieces  I"x2"xl6"  for  braces. 


Tools.  Saws,  planes,  hammer,  compass,  brace,  §"  bit, 
rule,  try-square,  spokeshave,  knife,  wood  file  and  chisel. 

Directions.  Saw  piece  No.  1  mentioned  in  list  of  material 
into  three  pieces  2'  long.  Lay  off  and  saw  the  1J"  x  3" 
notches  shown  in  detail,  in  the  drawing  of  the  runners. 
Round  off  the  end,  beginning  back  about  6".  Bevel  the 
runner  to  a  V-shape  as  shown  in  cross-section. 

Bore  holes  as  indicated  in  the  drawing  in  the  two  runner 
stays  in  No.  5  in  bill  of  stock.  Finish  piece  No.  4,  the 
support  for  the  handles,  as  shown  in  the  detail. 

Work  down  handles  as  shown  in  detail,  using  spokeshave 
and  file  to  round  off  the  ends  to  be  used  for  handles. 

Make  the  pins  from  hard  wood. 

Assembly.  Nail  pieces  mentioned  in  No.  2  in  bill  of  stock 
to  tops  of  the  runners.  Find  center  of  piece  immediately 
above  each  notch  on  the  two  outside  runners.  At  this  point 
bore  a  f"  hole  thru  the  piece  just  nailed  on  and  down  two 
inches  into  the  runner.  These  holes  are  for  the  pins  which 
hold  the  runners  in  place. 

Find  the  middle  of  the  crosspieces,  or  runner  stays,  and 
nail  the  middle  runner  into  position.  Slide  the  other  run- 
ners on  and  put  pins  in  place.  Nail  on  the  support  for  the 
handles.  Cut  and  fit  the  two  braces.  Put  in  place,  and  nail 
on  the  handles. 


•5-0" 


GARPEN 


-22." 


E'-IO" 


—  24"    — 


ir- 


-6"- 


- 


J'T 


AAY  BE  ADJUJTIP  FOR,  ANY  "WIDTH  Rov 


77 


82 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


PORTABLE  COLD  FRAME. 

Purpose.  This  cold  frame  can  be  used  advantageously  in 
any  climate  where  the  winter  temperature  is  below  the 
growing  point  for  plant  life.  In  southern  climates  green 
things  such  as  lettuce,  radishes,  mustard,  spinach,  and  even 
tomatoes,  can  be  grown  during  the  entire  winter.  A  woman 
in  Dallas,  Texas,  supplies  her  twenty  and  more  boarders 
with  green  things  all  winter  long,  with  a  cold  frame  less 
well  built  than  the  one  given  here. 

In  the  more  northern  climates  seeds  are  planted  before 
the  frost  is  gone.  The  sun  shining  thru  the  glass  warms  the 
ground,  accumulationg  enough  heat  to  prevent  injury  from 
tolerably  hard  freezes.  More  protection  still  is  given  if 
manure  is  packed  around  the  frame.  Cabbage,  tomato, 
celery  and  such  plants  are  much  sturdier  if  started  in  the 
cold  frame.  They  can  be  accustomed  gradually  to  the  out 
door  air  before  transplanting.  All  flowering  plants  which 
are  transplanted  such  as  salvia,  pansies,  asters,  etc.,  grow 
much  stronger  if  started  in  the  forcing  box.  There  is  a  great 
deal  of  genuine  pleasure,  and  a  great  deal  of  profit  in  the 
use  of  this  box. 

It  is  an  easy  matter  to  get  hold  of  some  old  window 
sashes  or  storm  windows.  The  size  of  the  window  frame 
used  will  determine  the  size  of  the  box,  the  lower  part 
being  made  to  fit  the  frame.  This  box  may  be  moved  about 
easily,  and  is  stored  away  when  not  in  use.  With  ordinary 
care  it  will  last  for  years. 

Material.    Pine. 

Two  pieces  ^"x8"xl4'. 

One  piece  54"x8"xl2'. 

One  piece  2"x4"x6'. 

One  piece  ^"xlO"x!4'  shiplap. 

One  piece  J4"x6"xlO'. 

Two  storm  windows  2'6"x4'6". 

Three  pairs  2"  butt  hinges. 

A  number  of  8d.  common  nails. 


Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  may  be  easily  made  from 
the  drawing,  and  should  the  size  of  windows  differ,  the  bill 
for  this  particular  frame  would  not  suffice. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  gage, 
and  hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  and  plane  all  pieces  except  the  sides  to 
dimensions  given  in  the  drawing.  To  lay  out  one  of  the 
sides  lay  down  on  the  floor  three  8"  boards,  the  lower  one 
being  the  correct  length.  The  second  board  must  be  about 
7'  long  to  make  both  the  second  and  third  boards  without 
waste  of  material,  the  long  cut  making  the  long  side  for  both 
pieces.  The  third  8"  board,  while  laying  off,  may  be  any 
length.  Measure  in  from  one  end  21",  and  with  framing 
square,  draw  a  line  across.  Connect  this  point  with  top 
corner  of  the  first  board.  Saw  the  short  cut  and  then  the 
long  cut.  Turn  this  long  cut  over  and  re-mark  to  get  the 
complete  side.  The  other  side  is  made  in  the  same  way. 
Saw  out  notches  at  the  ridge  point  for  the  crosspiece  13"x 
3J"  as  shown  in  the  drawing.  Bevel  the  piece  last  men- 
tioned to  conform  to  the  slope  of  the  roof. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  side  pieces  together  placing  the  inner 
nail  tie  in  about  the  same  position  as  shown  in  the  drawing. 
Nail  in  the  corner  pieces  and  also  the  front  and  back  pieces. 
Nail  together  the  two  pieces  between  the  windows.  Cut  a 
4"  notch  in  the  front  and  upper  pieces  deep  enough  so  that 
the  bottom  piece  will  come  flush  with  the  edge  and  nail  into 
position.  Nail  the  door  together,  nailing  the  shiplap  to 
the  under  crosspieces.  Nail  on  the  piece  marked  A  in  the  j 
drawing.  Put  the  hinges  on  the  door  and  fasten  them  to  the 
piece  just  nailed.  Fasten  on  the  storm  windows  with 
hinges.  It  is  necessary  that  these  windows,  as  well  as  the 
door,  be  raised  at  times  in  the  middle  of  the  day  to  keep  the 
plants  from  growing  too  rank. 


-JJHIPLA? 


HINGE.S 


c-o 


PLATE  37 


PORTABLE  COLD 


•f- 


•  S'-Z." 


84 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


HOG  TROUGHS. 

Purpose.  This  article  is  used  on  every  farm,  and  it 
affords  a  problem  in  accurate  joining  and  stability.  The 
second  trough  is  more  sanitary,  being  easily  cleaned,  and  it 
allows  animals  to  get  their  food  more  easily. 


Trough  No.  1. 

Material 

Two  pieces  124"x6"xl2'. 

One  piece  I^"fx6"x4'. 

One  piece  I^"x8"xl2'. 

One  piece  %"x4"xll}4". 

Some  white  lead,  a  number  of  20d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    To  be  made  by  the  pupil. 

Tools.     Saw,  plane,  pencil,  hammer,  chisel,  and  square. 

Directions.  Cut  pieces  to  dimensions  given  in  drawing. 
In  sawing  take  unusual  care  to  square  the  ends  in  the  long 
pieces,  using  plane  if  necessary.  Plane  good  straight  edges 
on  the  8"  piece. 


Assembly.  Put  white  lead  on  all  joints  before  nailing. 
Nail  together  the  long  pieces  forming  the  trough,  then  nail 
on  the  ends.  Saw  and  chisel  out  a  space  for  crosspiece  in 
the  middle,  making  it  come  flush  with  the  upper  surface. 
Nail  on  the  crosspiece. 

Trough  No.  2. 

Material 

One  piece  I^"xl0"xl2'. 

One  piece  lJ4"x8"xl6'. 

One  piece  %"x4"x3'3". 

Some  white  lead  and  a  number  of  20d.  common  nails. 

Tools.     Same  as  preceding  problem. 

Directions.  Cut  the  material  into  pieces  as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  Square  the  ends  of  the  long  pieces  very  carefully. 
Plane  one  good  straight  edge  on  the  8"  plank  so  that  it 
will  make  a  good  joint.  Test  the  joint  before  nailing. 

Assembly.  Use  white  lead  in  all  joints.  Nail  the  8"  and 
10"  planks  together,  then  nail  on  the  ends.  Saw  and  chisel 
out  spaces  for  the  cross-ties.  These  cross-ties  should  come 
flush  with  the  upper  surface. 


PLATE  38 


1 

u 


HOG  TLOUGHJ 


No.l 


IZ'-O" 


No.Z. 


-3-0" 


-3-0' 


r4i 


86 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


GRAIN  TROUGH  FOR  FEEDING  SHEEP. 

Purpose.  This  grain  trough  does  away  with  the  wasteful 
method  of  feeding  grain  on  the  ground  or  floor  where  it 
becomes  trampled  and  dirty.  The  trap-door  enables  a  man 
to  feed  from  the  top  and  close  it  down  again.  It  also  pre- 
vents the  sheep  from  crawling  into  or  jumping  over  the 
feeding  trough  and  overturning  its  contents.  This  trough 
will  accommodate  quite  a  number  of  sheep,  since  they  may 
feed  from  both  sides.  It  is  very  simple  in  construction. 

Material. 

One  piece  ^"xl2"x!2'  yellow  pine. 

One  piece  %"xl2"x!6'. 

One  piece  %"x8"x!2'. 

Two  pieces  2"x4"xl2'. 

Three  ^"x2"  butt  hinges. 

A  number  of  8d.  and  lOd.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  %"xl2"x!2'  for  bottom. 
One  piece  ffi>JtS"xl2,   for  top. 
Three  pieces  %"x4"x!2'  for  door  and  sides. 
Three  pieces  %"\\2"xWlA"  for  ends  and  partitions. 
Six  pieces  lM"x3'/£"x22"  for  legs. 
Four  pieces  I^"x3;4"x3'  braces  for  legs. 


Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  pencil,  T-bevel,  hammer  and 
chisel. 

Directions.  Make  the  legs  from  one  of  the  pieces  of 
studding.  Use  15J"  on  one  arm  of  the  square  and  16"  on 
the  other  to  get  the  angle  for  sawing  the  leg.  The  entire 
length  is  1'  10".  Using  the  square,  lay  off  angles  and  saw. 
Make  a  cross-lap  joint  so  that  a  line  drawn  thru  the  center 
of  the  joint  horiontally  will  be  9$"  from  the  ground.  An 
easy  method  to  mark  out  this  joint  is  to  put  one  piece  over 
the  other  to  the  correct  dimensions,  marking  with  a  knife 
or  sharp  lead  pencil  and  sawing  to  the  inside  of  the  lines. 
Saw  the  braces  for  the  legs.  Rip-saw  a  12"  board  12'  long 
into  two  boards,  one  8"  and  the  other  4"  wide.  Rip  the  8" 
board  into  two  equal  parts.  Saw  the  16'  board  into  one 
piece  12'  long  and  three  pieces  10|"  long. 

Assembly.  Assemble  the  trough  part  first.  Nail  the  two 
4"  side  pieces  to  the  bottom  board.  Nail  in  the  ends  and  the 
middle  partition.  Nail  the  box  to  the  legs  and  put  on  the 
lower  braces.  Lastly  put  on  the  8"  top  piece  leaving  the 
4"  piece  free  for  hinges.  Put  in  the  hinges. 

This  trough  should  be  put  together  very  firmly  as  it  is 
likely  to  have  quite  rough  usage. 


CHAIN  TROUGH  FOL  FEEDING  .SHEO 

HINGES  To  BE  PUT  AT  A-&-AND  C 


PLATE  39 


•c-o 


88 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


FEEDING  TROUGH  FOR  STOCK. 

Purpose.  This  feeding  trough  is  a  necessity  because  of 
its  convenience,  cleanliness,  and  economy.  It  should  be 
found  on  all  stock  and  dairy  farms.  The  material  used  is 
strong  and  heavy  to  prevent  the  trough  from  being  over- 
turned by  the  cattle.  Rough-sawed  oak  from  the  mill,  hard 
pine,  or  any  good  substantial  wood  may  be  used,  and  if  well 
built  it  will  last  for  years. 

Material 

(1)  Five  pieces  2"xlO"xl6'. 

(2)  One  piece  2"xlO"x7'. 

(3)  One  piece  4"x4"xl7'. 

(4)  Two  pieces  2"x6"xl2/. 

(5)  One  piece  2"x6"xl4'. 

(6)  A  number  of  20d.  common  nails  and  two  dozen  J4"x6" 

bolts.     (The  bolts  may  be  omitted  but  they  make  a 
more  substantial  trough.) 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  of  stock  may  be  easily  made  by 
studying  the  drawing  carefully. 


Tools.  Saws,  square,  rule,  pencil,  heavy  hammer,  brace 
and  \"  bit. 

Directions.  Square  up  and  cut  all  pieces  except  braces. 
Cut  six  pieces  4'  1"  long  from  No.  4  in  list  of  material.  You 
will  notice  that  you  are  to  cut  three  4'  1"  pieces  from  a  12' 
plank.  This  may  be  done  by  laying  out  all  pieces  before 
sawing  so  as  to  allow  for  slant. 

Assembly.  Lay  two  legs  on  the  floor  3'  6"  apart  outer 
measurements.  Measure  down  10",  and  nail  on  a  crosspiece, 
as  A.  Nail  on  the  braces.  Put  one  bolt  in  each  joint.  Com- 
plete the  other  sets  of  legs  in  the  same  way,  making  three 
sets. 

Stand  the  legs  upright  or  on  the  side  and  nail  on  B,  as 
shown  in  drawing,  flush  at  each  end,  nailing  the  third  set 
of  legs  in  the  middle.  Nail  on  opposite  board.  Nail  in  the 
floor  of  the  trough  and  lastly  the  ends,  marked  C  in  the 
drawing.  Put  a  bolt  in  each  leg  thru  side  and  end  pieces 
marked  B  and  C  in  the  drawing. 


FEEDING  THOUGH  FOR.  JTOCK_ 


PLATE  40 


VI        "> 

Ki 


\C-4~ 


ifr 


7-C.- 


•7-C" 


r 


A 


A 


•o 


90 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


UNLOADING  CHUTE. 

Purpose.  This  drawing  shows  a  portable,  substantial  un- 
loading chute  that  should  be  found  on  every  farm  where  hogs 
are  raised  for  market.  It  is  made  especially  strong  so  that 
it  may  be  used  also  for  cattle.  The  important  thing  in  a 
chute  is  a  strong  floor.  If  it  springs,  the  animals  hesitate 
and  if  it  is  weak  and  breaks  thru,  there  is  danger  of  a 
broken  leg. 

Material.      Floor   and   supports  oak   if   possible,   altho   a 
good  grade  of  yellow  pine  will  do. 
Three  pieces  Ij4"xl2"x8'. 
One  piece  Wx6"xl4'. 
One  piece  !J4x6"x8'. 
Three  pieces  <i^"x8"xl6'. 
One  piece  2"x4"xl6'. 
Two  pieces  2"x4"xl2'. 
One  piece  }'g"x6"x9'. 

A  number  of  10d.,  16d.  and  20d.  common  nails,  also  some  lj^" 
No.  9  flat  head  screws. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Three  pieces  I^xl2"x7'5"  for  floor. 

(2)  One  piece  I24"x6"x7'5"  for  floor. 

(3)  Two  pieces  ]J4"x6"x7'  for  foundation. 

(4)  Four  pieces  I^"x3l^"x4'l"  for  cross  ties. 

(5)  Two  pieces  l-Vi".\3!^"xS7"  for  front  uprights. 

(6)  Two  pieces  Ij4"x3j4"x4'5"  for  middle  uprights. 

(7)  Two  pieces  1^4"x3'/2"x3'3"  for  rear  uprights. 

(8)  Six  pieces  .K"x8"x7'8"  for  siding  for  chute. 

(9)  Nine  pieces  54"x2"x3'  for  cleats. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  rule,  square,  pencil,  gage,  T-bevel, 
and  hammer. 


Directions.  Saw  Nos.  3  to  7  inclusive  to  the  lengths  given 
in  the  bill  of  stock.  Set  the  T-bevel  to  an  angle  on  the 
square  of  3"  to  7".  (See  illustration  on  Plate  2.)  Plane 
three  of  the  cross-ties,  No.  4  in  bill  of  stock,  on  one  edge 
to  this  angle.  These  are  to  fit  up  under  the  floor.  Use  this 
same  angle  in  sawing  the  upper  ends  of  Nos.  5,  6  and  7  in 
bill  of  stock.  After  pieces,  No.  8  in  bill  of  stock,  have  been 
measured  to  length  set  the  T-bevel  to  these  and  draw  angles 

for  sawing,  likewise  the  ends  of  the  flooring. 

Assembly.  Nail  a  beveled  cross-tie,  No.  4  in  bill  of  stock, 
to  the  rear  uprights  at  the  lower  end,  and  with  the  bevel 
in  the  position  shown  in  the  side  view  of  the  drawing.  Like- 
wise nail  on  the  crosspiece  on  the  front  uprights  the  upper 
edge  of  the  bevel  being  2'  7"  from  the  lower  end.  Nail  on 
the  crosspiece  at  the  bottom  of  these  same  uprights.  Place 
the  2"  x  6"  pieces  on  the  floor  and  toe-nail  the  rear  up- 
rights to  these,  placing  them  in  4"  from  the  end.  The  front 
uprights  are  placed  6"  from  the  end  and  toe-nailed.  (Brace 
them  temporarily  if  necessary.)  After  being  sure  that  the 
uprights  are  vertical  by  using  a  level,  place  one  of  the 
pieces  of  flooring  in  place  and  put  a  nail  in  each  end.  Re- 
peat this  at  the  other  side.  Toe-nail  in  the  middle  uprights 
at  the  places  designated  in  the  drawing.  Hold  the  cross  tie 
up  to  the  flooring  and  nail.  (This  is  done  in  this  manner  to 
make  sure  that  there  will  be  no  spring,  or  give,  to  the 
floor.)  Nail  in  the  remaining  pieces  of  flooring.  Nail  on 
the  siding  for  the  chute,  the  first  piece  fitting  flush  with  the 
floor,  and  a  4"  space  between  each  of  the  other  pieces.  Put 
on  the  cleats  with  screws,  allowing  8"  space  between  each. 


UNLOADING  CHUTE 


PLATE  41 


1 


CLEATS  To  BE  PUT  ON 
WITH  1-k"  *  3 


7'-o" 


u 


LEAK.  VIEW 


92 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


INDIVIDUAL  HOG  COT. 

Purpose.  The  best  hog  raisers  of  today  are  beginning  to 
recognize  the  need  of  individual  houses  for  sows  with  pigs. 
They  can  be  better  cared  for  and  each  mother  is  less  likely 
to  lie  on  her  pigs.  The  little  pigs  are  kept  more  apart  from 
the  other  litters  and  from  the  mature  hogs  in  the  lot. 

Material.     Yellow  pine. 
Two  pieces  4"x4'x8'. 
Five  pieces  2"x4"xl4'. 
Four  pieces  2"x4"xl6'. 
Fifteen  pieces  ^"xlO"x!4'  shiplap. 
Seven  pieces  %"x!2"x8'. 
One  piece  glass  6"x9". 
A  number  of  8d.,  10d.,  16d.  and  20d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  It  is  only  necessary  to  work  out  the  pieces 
as  the  work  proceeds. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  rule,  pencil,  hammer  and 
chisel. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  The  two  4"  x  4"  pieces  are 
used  for  runners.  The  2"  x  4"  pieces  for  the  floor  foundation 


are  set  down  1J"  into  the  4x4,  one  across  each  end,  one 
across  the  middle  and  one  in  the  middle  of  the  two  spaces 
thus  formed.  Lay  off  the  joints  If"  wide  and  If"  deep ;  saw 
and  chisel  out  the  wood.  Place  the  pieces  in  position,  and 
nail.  Nail  on  the  floor.  The  rafters  are  6'  6"  long — the 
longest  edge.  In  laying  out  the  rafters  use  9£"  on  one  arm 
of  the  square  and  16f"  on  the  other  arm,  using  the  square  at 
one  end  9i"  to  16J",  and  at  the  other  end  16f  to  9J".  Nail 
the  rafters  in  place.  Cut  the  cross-ties  between  the  rafters 
and  nail  them  into  positions  shown  in  the  drawing.  Next, 
make  the  frame  for  the  opening.  Square  one  end,  and, 
setting  it  into  place  on  the  floor,  and  up  against  the  rafter, 
mark  and  saw,  and  then  nail  in  place.  In  a  like  manner 
mark  and  saw  the  other  side,  putting  in  the  overhead  piece 
last.  Put  the  shiplap  on  the  back  end  first,  so  as  to  use  the 
small  pieces  on  the  front. 

Take  advantage  of  the  slant  wherever  possible  in  using 
small  pieces.  Board  across  the  small  opening  in  front,  and 
later  cut  out  the  space  for  the  glass  and  make  the  small 
casing.  Nail  on  one  side  of  the  roof  first,  sawing  it  with 
the  same  bevel  as  the  slant  on  the  roof,  so  that  the  roof 
ridge  is  well  fitted  and  tight. 


PLATE  42, 


INDIVIDUAL  HOG  COT 

A  DOOR. To  FIT  OPENING  AAY 

IF  NecEjj'AR-Y-  ALTO  AN  OPENING 
ON  HEAR, FOR, VENTILATION.  JAM.E 
PormoN  As  WINDOW 


z 


—  6'-0" 


94 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


MILKING  STOOLS. 

"Little  Maid,  pretty  Maid,  whither  goest  thou?" 

"Down  in  the  meadow  to  milk  my  cow." 
•"May  I  go  with  thee?"    "No,  not  now, 

When  I  send  for  thee,  then  come  thou." 

Stools  1  and  2  are  much  alike.  No.  3  is  a  round-top,  three- 
legged  stool  well  suited  to  milking  outside,  since  the  three 
legs  easily  adjust  themselves  to  any  unevenness  of  the 
ground.  No.  4  furnishes  also  a  platform  for  the  milk  pail, 
lessening  the  chance  for  dirt  getting  into  the  pail. 

No.  1. 
Material 

One  piece  34"x8"x3'  pine. 

Twenty-two  \1A" ,  No.  9,  flat  head  screws,  or  as  many  8d.  com- 
mon nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  J4"x8"xl0"  for  seat. 
Two  pieces  ^"xB"x9lA"  for  legs. 
Four  pieces  J4"xl"x6"  for  braces. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  T-bevel,  try-square,  screw-driver, 
gage,  rule,  pencil,  countersink,  brace,  and  /z"  twist-drill. 

Directions.  Cut  pieces  to  dimensions  shown  in  bill  of 
stock.  Set  T-bevel  to  45°  angle,  mark  and  saw  braces. 

Assembly.  Put  top  and  legs  together  first,  then  put  in 
braces. 

No.  2. 

Stool  No.  2  is  so  nearly  like  stool  No.  1  that  the  pupil 
may  make  out  the  working  data  for  the  entire  problem, 
beginning  with  the  list  of  material  and  including  bill  of 
stock,  tools  needed,  directions  for  making  and  assembling. 


No.  3. 


Material. 

One  piece 
One  piece 
Glue. 


Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  One  piece  !J^"xlO"xlO"  for  round  top. 

(2)  Three  piecees  l!^"xl!^"xlO"  for  legs. 

Tools.  Saws,  chisel,  spokeshave,  T-bevel,  brace,  1"  bit, 
dividers,  compass,  coping  saw,  drawknife  and  rule. 

Directions.  Draw  diagonal  lines  on  both  sides  of  piece 
No.  1  mentioned  in  bill  of  stock  to  find  center.  Set  the 
dividers  to  5",  and  draw  circle.  Cut  to  line  with  coping 
saw.  On  opposite  side  draw  a  circle  with  a  radius  of  2\". 
Set  T-bevel  on  the  square  at  an  angle  f"  to  4J".  (See  il- 
lustration Plate  II.)  With  the  compass  divide  the  circle 
into  three  equal  parts.  At  these  points  bore  three  1"  holes 
1"  deep  at  the  angle  of  the  T-bevel. 

Find  the  center  of  one  end  on  each  leg,  and  with  the 
compass  set  at  \"  radius,  draw  circles.  Using  the  draw- 
knife  shave  down  to  these  circles,  beginning  about  2V' 
down.  Finish  with  spokeshave.  At  opposite  ends  of  the 
legs  plane  off  to  the  angle  set  on  the  T-bevel. 

Assembly.  Put  glue  in  the  holes  and  on  ends  of  legs. 
Push  in  the  legs.  Let  the  glue  set  before  using  the  stool. 

No.  4. 
Material. 

One  piece   J4"x8"xS'6"  pine. 

Thirty-two  1J4",  No.  9,  flat  head  screws. 

Bill  of  Stock.    To  be  made  out  by  pupil. 
Tools.      Saws,    plane,    try-square,    pencil,    screw-driver, 
brace,  7/32"  drill,  countersink  and  rule. 

Directions.  Cut  from  the  8"  board  all  pieces  shown  in 
the  drawing.  Lay  off,  bore,  and  countersink  holes  for 
screws. 

Assembly.  Screw  the  legs  to  both  seat  and  platform  for 
pail.  Turn  stool  over  and  screw  on  opposite  legs.  Screw 
braces  into  place  to  give  stability  to  stool. 


1 


No  I 


10' 


-10"- 


.L 

*iw 


2     L 


J 


No.  Z, 


,L 


MILKING  JTOOLJ  THR.EE  LEGSED  R.OUND  Top  No  3 


PLATE  43 


L 


•  10"- 


No  .4 


T 


1\          I 


24"- 


96 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


NECKYOKE,  SINGLETREE,  AND  EVENER. 

Purpose.  These  problems  will  be  of  great  benefit  to  any 
one  using  horses.  These  pieces  are  often  broken,  and  the 
ability  to  make  them  on  short  notice  is  most  valuable. 
When  made  in  the  farm  shop,  the  workman  can  select  only 
the  very  best  material,  which  should  be  entirely  free  from 
knots  and  cross-grained  wood. 

Neckyoke. 
Material. 

One  piece  2^"x2^"x3'2"  hickory  or  oak. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 


Singletree. 


Tools.  Saw,  plane,  gage,  rule,  spokeshave,  compass  and 
wood  file. 

Directions.  Square  up  material  to  dimensions  given  in 
the  drawing.  This  forms  a  piece  of  wood  1|"  square  at 
each  end,  with  a  2"  x  2J"  rectangle  in  the  middle.  In  plan- 
ing the  ends  to  get  the  1J"  square,  plane  \"  off  of  the  upper 
surface  of  ends  and  jj"  off  of  lower  surface.  This  leaves 
about  i"  extra  width  at  ends  which  may  be  planed  to  right 
size.  Draw  a  circle  1J"  in  diameter  on  both  ends.  Plane 
this  piece  to  an  eight-sided  figure,  then  begin  to  round  by 
shaving  and  filing  off  the  sharp  edges. 


Material. 

2"x2->4"x2'10J4"  oak  or  hickory. 


One  piece 


Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

One  piece  I}$"x2fyi"x2"i0".     Finished  dimensions. 

Tools.    Same  as  for  neckyoke. 

Directions.  This  is  exactly  the  same  problem  as  the  neck- 
yoke with  different  dimensions.  Square  up  material  to 
dimensions  given  in  the  drawing.  Draw  circles  of  1£" 
diameter  at  each  end  and  shave  down  to  eight  sides.  Shave 
off  sharp  edges  and  file  smooth. 

Evener. 
Material. 

One  piece  1^4"x4^4"x4'  white  oak  or  hickory. 
Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
One  piece  l'/2"x4*A"x4'. 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  gage,  rule,  spokeshave,  brace,  3"  and 
y  bits,  wood  file  and  chisel. 

Directions.  Square  up  material  to  dimensions  given  in 
drawing.  Lay  off  and  bore  the  middle  hole  If"  in  from  the 
straight  edge.  Bore  the  two  f "  holes  2\"  from  each  end, 
and  T%"  in  from  the  slanting  side.  At  each  end  bore  a  \" 
hole,  perpendicular  to  the  f"  hole.  These  should  be  \\" 
from  the  end.  Bolts  are  put  thru  these  holes  to  keep  the 
ends  from  splitting.  Chamfer  ends  and  corners  where 
shown  in  drawing. 


NECKYOKE 


PLATE 44 


J 


JINGLE.  TR.EE 


EVENER- 


I'll 


•8f- 


2-10" 


-K-J 


3  HOLE 


UJ 


JJ 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


WAGON  BOX. 

Purpose.  This  wagon  box  is  made  for  a  grain  box,  but 
may  be  used  for  general  purposes.  The  problem  may  seem 
a  little  large  but  the  author  has  had  as  many  as  eight  of 
these  made  by  pupils  in  a  single  year. 

The  box  beneath  may  be  made  separate  from  the  side 
boards.  It  is  possible  to  construct  the  entire  box,  including 
the  rods,  side  braces  and  irons,  but  these  can  be  bought 
almost  as  cheap  as  the  material  will  cost,  so  it  is  advisable 
to  buy  them,  the  construction  and  assembling  of  the  box 
beneath  being  a  big  undertaking  in  itself. 

Material.    For  bottom  box. 

Two  pieces  %"xl4"xl4'  white  pine  or  hickory. 

One  piece  1  !4"x3}i"xl6'  hickory  or  oak. 

Twelve  pieces  %"x4"x!2'  fir  flooring. 

One  piece  %"x8"x!2'  white  pine. 

Two  y%'  wagon  rods. 

One  set,  eight  pieces,  of  wagon  box  strap  bolts  with  nuts. 

Six  y%"  wagon  box  side  braces  with  nuts. 

A  number  of  assorted  \1A",  2"  and  2l/2"  wagon  box  J4"  oval 

head  rivets. 

One  pair  2"  hinges  for  back  end  gate. 
Six  feet  of  t"s"xl"  wrought  iron. 

Twenty-eight  feet  of  3/32"  iron  as  shown  at  X,  plate  46. 
An  assortment  of  nails. 

Material.    For  top  box. 

Two  pieces  ^"xlO"xl4'  white  pine. 

One  piece  H"x8"x6'6". 

Two  ffi  wagon  box  rods. 

Twenty-eight  feet  of  iron  as  shown  at  X,  in  detail. 

An  assortment  of  2"  and  2^4"  wagon  box  1/4"  oval  head  rivets. 

An  assortment  of  nails  and  screws. 

If  desired,  27'  of  A"xlJ4"  iron  as  shown  at  A,  in  detail. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Lower  box.    Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Two  pieces  %"xl4"xl0'9"  for  sides. 

(2)  Two  pieces  ^"xl4"x3'I4"  for  end  gates. 

(3)  Three  pieces  I^"x3}^"x4'  for  crosspieces. 


(4)  One  piece  I^"x3j4"x3'2"  for  front  crosspiece. 

(5)  Two  pieces  %"x3!/2"x2'10"  for  K. 

(6)  Two  pieces  I^"xl}4"x3'2"  for  L. 

(7)  Twelve  pieces  %"x4"x!0'9"  for  flooring. 

(8)  Four  pieces  2i"x3"xl4"  for  crosspieces  on  end  gate. 

(9)  One  piece  %"x6!4"x3'2"  for  foot  rest. 

(10)  Four  pieces  ^"x2^"x!4"  to  make  slot  for  end  gates. 

(11)  Four  pieces  Ji"x2j4"xl2"  to  make  slot  for  end  gates. 

Top  box. 

Two  pieces  ^"xlO"x!0'9"  for  sides. 

Two  pieces  %"xW"x3'%"  f°r  end  gates. 

Four  pieces  %"x3"xlO"  to  make  slots  for  end  gates. 

Four  pieces  %"x2%"xl2"  to  make  slot    for  end  gates. 

Eight  pieces  ^"l!4"xl2"  for  D. 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  square,  rule,  pencil,  brace,  \" ,  \"  and 
$"  bits,  forge  shop  tools,  gage,  wood  file,  chisel,  riveting 
hammer  and  hammer. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  The  cross  braces,  Nos.  3  and 
4,  in  bill  of  stock  should  be  made  first,  the  back  one  being 
finished  as  shown  in  the  detail  sheet.  Lay  eff  38"  (this 
being  the  width  of  the  box)  and  bore  holes  just  outside  of 
this  line  for  the  strap  bolts.  Also  bore  holes  where  needed 
for  side  braces.  Plane  down  the  groove  edge  of  one  of  the 
pieces  of  fir  flooring.  Lay  the  under  crosspieces  at  the 
places  shown  in  the  drawing  and  put  on  the  flooring,  rip- 
ping the  last  piece  so  that  the  edge  will  be  even  with  the 
edge  of  the  hole.  Mark  a  line  across  each  end  and  saw  off 
the  extra  pieces  of  flooring.  Saw  the  sides  to  length  and 
rivet  on  strap  bolts,  being  careful  to  leave  out  the  rivets 
where  the  side  braces  are  placed.  It  is  best  to  rivet  these 
over  an  anvil  or  heavy  piece  of  flat  iron.  Now  rivet  on  the 
cleats  that  hold  the  end  gates  in  place,  being  careful  in 
each  case  not  to  put  a  rivet  where  the  rod  is  to  be.  Nail 
on  the  steps  and  bore  holes  for  side  braces.  Bolt  the  sides 
in  place,  put  in  the  side  braces  and  finish  riveting. 


PLATE  45 

1 

f    H                   n    1 

P 

!                II                                                                 II 

1 

— 

r1                  '                L 

•                                                       *i 

L 

i                   j  J 

} 

j  i 

WAGON  15OX 

J 

i 

L 

«ll                 " 

II 

K         U    J 

y 

t*  ^ 

D 

p 

? 

o 

* 

r     •       .  •• 

F    lc 

f(C                     (  e  FIR  FLOORING          ]|c. 

,  

jp,                          Q     {g^j 

uin                         rs 

i 

Mfc 

J;|    :                                                       :jl 

—  r-r  Jj'i*  —  -  20-- 

—  JL  2'-3i-  J 

1 

w   »                                                  v   w 
U                      3-    ,                  J 

100  PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK  

The  front  end  gate  is  made  as  shown  in  the  detail,  none  at  N.    Bore  the  holes  and  put  in  the  rods.    Give  the  box  two 

of  the  riveting  being  done  until  the  iron  work  has  been  good  coats  of  paint. 

completed  and  the  foot-rest  made.     The  back  end  gate  is  The  construction  of  the  top  box  is  almost  a  repetition  of 

made  as  shown  in  the  detail,  the  board  being  sawed  into  the  lower  box  except  that  wooden  cleats  are  used  instead  of 

two  pieces   12"  from  the  right  hand  end.     Nail  the  extra  strap  bolts  shown  as  D  in  the  detail  sheet.     These  cleats 

piece  to  the  smaller  piece,  and  put  a  pair  of  hinges  on  the  are  riveted  to  the  top  side  boards.     Rods  and  pieces  are 

inside.    An  iron  button  should  be  made  for  M  in  the  draw-  put  on  to  hold  the  end  gates  as  in  the  lower  box. 
ing  to  hold  the  end  gate  together.     This  button  is  shown 


WAGON  Box 

DETAIL  JHOWING  CONSTRUCTION 
v  X 


FOR,  FINISHING  B       JIDE  BRACED 


PLATE4C 


o  WAKE  TIGHT  GRAIN  Box 
A 


END  GATE  SHOWING  FOOTEEST 


CORNER.  OF  FOOTEEJT 


102 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


SPRING  SEAT. 


Purpose.  Because  of  hard  usage  and  from  being  thrown 
around,  the  ordinary  spring  seat  wears  out  before  the  wagon 
box.  There  remains  a  set  of  good  springs  and  hooks  and 
iron  strips,  leaving  just  the  wood  and  rivets  or  bolts  to  be 
purchased.  However,  if  desired  all  the  hardware  except 
the  springs  may  be  made  in  the  shop. 

Material.  Pine  and  a  set  of  hardware  from  an  old  spring 
seat. 

One  piece  J4"x8"xlO'. 

One  piece  J4"x5"x3'. 

One  piece  l!^"xl?4"x3'4". 

One  piece  I"xl^"x24". 

One  dozen  A"  rivets  or  bolts  2"  long. 

Four  A"  rivets  or  bolts  1}4"  long. 


Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  One  piece  H"xl6"x3'j4"  for  seat. 

(2)  One  piece  H"x6!4"xZli;  for  back. 

(3)  Two  pieces  M"x4^2"xl7"  for  ends. 

(4)  Two  pieces  l!'2"xlfi"xl9^"  for  below  springs. 

(5)  Two  pieces  \"  xlyi"  x\\lA"  for  above  springs. 


Tools.     Saws,  plane,  drawknife,  spokeshave,  rule,  pencil, 
try-square,  brace,  -fa"  bit,  T-bevel  and  hammer. 


Directions.  Glue  two  8"  boards  together  for  bottom  of 
seat,  and  work  down  to  the  dimensions  given  in  No.  1  in 
bill  of  stock.  Set  the  T-bevel  at  an  angle  of  1"  to  3"  (See 
illustration  Plate  II),  and  bevel  one  edge  of  No.  2  in  bill  of 
stock.  Draw  a  freehand  curve  making  the  piece  6i"  high 
in  the  middle  and  curving  down  to  4|"  at  each  end.  Work 
down  to  the  line  by  using  the  drawknife,  and  round  the  edge 
with  the  spokeshave.  Bevel  one  edge  of  each  of  the  end 
pieces,  using  the  given  angle  on  the  T-bevel,  and  plane  to 
the  line.  Mark,  saw  and  plane  one  end  of  side  board  to  the 
angle  of  the  T-bevel.  Saw  opposite  end  parallel  to  this. 
On  the  under  side  of  the  pieces  directly  under  the  seat,  cut 
a  curve  with  the  spokeshave  that  will  fit  the  curve  of  the 
springs,  using  a  little  more  than  two-thirds  of  the  length  of 
the  piece  in  the  curve.  Mark  the  holes  in  this  piece  by 
placing  it  over  the  springs  and  marking  with  a  lead  pencil. 
Bore  holes  with  a  -fa"  bit.  Use  the  same  process  on  the 
pieces  below  the  springs,  using  about  10"  in  the  curve  and 
tapering  the  ends  down  to  1".  Mark  and  bore  the  holes 
for  the  spring,  and  also  the  hole  at  each  end  for  the  iron 
catches  that  fit  over  the  wagon  box. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  back  piece  to  the  seat  and  then  nail 
on  the  end  pieces.  Bolt  or  rivet  the  catches  at  each  end  on 
the  lower  piece  below  the  springs,  then  bolt,  or  rivet,  onto 
the  springs.  Mark  and  bore  the  holes  in  the  seat  and  bolt 
or  rivet  the  springs  to  the  seat. 


.5  PILING  JEAT 

UJK  OLP  JFK  ING  j 


PLATE  47 


104 


PROBLEMS     I\     FARM     WOODWORK 


WAGON  JACKS. 

Purpose.  A  wagon  jack  is  one  of  the  most  convenient 
articles  that  can  be  had  about  the  farm.  In  greasing  wagon 
wheels  the  jack  is  placed  beneath  the  axle  and  the  wagon 
is  easily  lifted  by  using  the  lever  of  the  wagon  jack.  The 
wheel  is  then  easily  removed  while  the  greasing,  or  any 
repair  work  is  done.  Thus  a  great  deal  of  clumsy  and  heavy 
lifting  and  a  great  deal  of  dirt  on  the  clothing  is  saved. 

No.  1. 
Material. 

One  piece  "4"x3"x7'3"  oak  or  hard  pine  without  knots. 

One  piece  I^"x3"xl6". 

One  bolt  or  hard  wood  pin  ^"xS". 

One  piece  strap  iron  V's"x%"xl7". 

One  piece  round  iron  fg"x3'10". 

One  bolt  f£"x2". 

Two  bolts  3£"x3". 

Bill  of  Stock.    May  be  worked  out  from  the  drawing. 

Tools.  Saw,  plane,  rule,  chisel,  pencil,  brace,  §"  bit,  try- 
square,  post  drill  and  \"  drill  bit,  forge,  anvil,  hammer,  vise 
tongs,  and  monkey  wrench. 

Directions.  Make  the  base  piece  to  dimensions  given  in 
the  drawing.  In  making  the  uprights,  measure  in  3"  from 
an  end  and  make  a  notch  \"  deep  to  fit  over  the  base.  Bore 
seven  \"  holes  in  the  other  end  \\"  apart,  lengthwise  and 
alternating  \"  from  each  edge.  Place  both  pieces  evenly  in 
the  vise  and  bore  the  holes  in  both  at  the  same  time  so  that 
the  pin  will  work  smothly.  Do  not  bore  entirely  thru — only 
until  point  of  bit  appears,  and  then  bore  from  the  other  side 
to  make  a  smooth  hole. 

Taper  one  edge  of  the  lever  until  it  corresponds  to  meas- 
urements in  drawing.  Bore  a  \"  hole  in  lever  arm  f"  from 
lower  edge  and  5£"  from  end,  also  a  jj"  hole  in  center  of 
piece  24"  from  end. 


In  the  forge  shop  bend  strap  iron  around  the  end  of  the 
lever  as  shown  in  drawing.  Make  an  eye  in  each  end  of 
the  §"  round  iron  either  by  bending  or  by  upsetting  and 
then  punching.  Measure  off  20|"  from  the  center  of  the 
eye  and  bend  back  at  right  angles.  Measure  over  3£"  and 
bend  back  at  right  angles. 

Assembly.  Put  the  two  uprights  over  the  base,  place  in 
vise,  bore  two  f"  holes,  and  insert  the  bolts.  Bore  some 
holes  in  the  strap  iron ;  countersink  and  put  in  screws. 
Fasten  the  \"  iron  catch  to  the  lever.  Slip  the  iron  over 
the  uprights,  slide  the  lever  between  the  uprights,  and  insert 
the  pin.  The  lever  may  be  raised  or  lowered  to  meet 
different  heights  of  axles. 

No.  2. 
Material. 

One  piece  I34"x4"xl2". 

One  piece  l%"x6"x2'2'/£". 

One  piece  %"x4*A"x2Q". 

Two  pieces  strap  iron  itV'xr'xS^". 

Two  pieces  strap  iron  A"xl"x3". 

Two  bolts  J4"x3";  two  y2"x3l/2" ;  one  54"x4";  one  !4"x5". 

Glue. 

Bill  of  Stock.  Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  One  piece  I^"x4"xl2"  for  base. 

(2)  One  piece  I%"x6"x2'2^"  for  uprights. 

(3)  One  piece  %""x4r/^"x20"  for  handle. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  rule,  chisel,  \"  and  1"  bits,  knife, 
try-square,  spokeshave,  wood  file,  monkey  wrench,  post  drill 
and  \"  drill  bit. 

Directions.  Lay  off  and  chisel  out  the  mortise  in  the 
base.  This  mortise  is  If"  wide,  6"  long  and  \\"  deep. 
On  the  upright  piece  two  notches,  or  steps,  are  to  be  made. 
At  the  upper  end  lay  off  two  lines  parallel  with  the  end,  one 
down  4"  and  the  other  7".  Set  the  gage  2"  and  gage 


PL  ATE  48 


No  1 


"WAG  ON' JACK  J 


No.Z. 


106 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


between  the  lines,  then  at  4"  and  gage  from  upper  line  to 
end  for  the  upper  notch.  Saw  to  these  lines.  Lay  out  the 
curve  on  the  piece  beginning  7"  from  the  lower  end  and 
finishing  about  7"  from  the  other  end  on  the  opposite  side. 
Saw  with  a  coping  or  turning  saw. 

Lay  out  the  irregular  curves  for  the  handle  and  saw,  or 
shave  to  line  with  spokeshave. 

Bore  two  \"  holes  in  upper  end  of  the  upright  piece  in 
about  the  positions  shown  in  the  drawing.  These  are  to 
hold  bolts  which  keep  the  wood  from  splitting.  The  lower 
hole  should  be  started  with  the  1"  bit  and  finished  with  the 
|"  bit.  This  allows  the  bolt  to  fit  down  into  the  wood  with- 
out interfering  with  the  surface.  The  holes  in  the  strap 
iron  pieces  should  be  drilled  with  the  post  drill.  The  dis- 
tance between  centers  in  the  3£"  pieces  is  2\" ',  and  in  the 
3"  strap  the  distance  between  centers  is  2". 

The  centers  for  the  holes  in  upright  piece  at  lower  end 
are  1"  from  edge.  The  upper  holes  should  be  bored  in 
about  the  position  shown  in  the  drawing. 

Assembly.  Glue  the  upright  piece  to  the  base,  and  put 
in  some  long  finishing  nails.  Put  in  the  upper  bolts  in  the 
uprights  before  fastening  on  the  lever.  Then  put  on  the 
lower  straps. 

SAND  BOX. 

Purpose.  This  box  is  made  for  the  purpose  of  hauling 
heavy  stuff  such  as  sand,  dirt,  trash  and  stones,  and  it  is 
needed  on  every  farm.  It  is  made  with  a  loose  bed  so  that 
the  dirt  and  sand  may  be  unloaded  without  shoveling. 


simply  by  turning  the  bottom  boards  up  edgewise.  Grain 
boxes  are  sometimes  used  for  hauling  these  heavy  loads, 
but  they  soon  wear  out,  being  too  light. 

Material.    Rough  sawed  yellow  pine  or  oak. 
Two  pieces  Wxl2"xl4'. 
One  piece  Ij4"xl2"x3'6". 
Ten  pieces  1  J<"x4"xl2  . 
One  piece  %"x6"x8'. 
A  number  of  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  size  of  the  different  pieces  may  be 
taken  easily  from  the  drawing. 

Tools.    Saws,  square,  rule,  pencil,  drawknife  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  the  floor  boards  to  length.  Cut  down 
the  ends  of  each  with  a  drawknife,  leaving  the  handles 
about  2£"  wide  and  continuing  the  same  size  about  4"  back, 
as  shown  in  the  end  and  top  views  in  the  drawing.  Then 
taper  back  to  the  end  gate  which  is  6"  from  the  end.  Round 
off  the  corners  until  they  are  elliptical  so  that  the  hands 
may  not  be  injured  while  using  the  box. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  strips  to  hold  the  end  gate  to  the 
side  pieces.  These  are  to  hold  the  end  gates  as  well  as  to 
keep  the  side  pieces  in  place.  Place  the  sides  between  the 
standards  of  the  wagon  and  put  in  enough  of  the  2"  x  4" 
pieces  to  make  a  fairly  tight  floor,  sawing  one  piece  at  the 
side  if  necessary.  Make  the  small  extra  side  boards  that 
elevate  the  seat  and  put  in  place.  Put  the  seat  board  in 
place,  mark  the  places  for  strips,  and  nail  them  on  as 
shown  in  the  detail.  The  extra  side  boards  are  not  entirely 
necessary,  but  they  make  riding  more  comfortable. 


PLATE  49 


JAND  Box 


DETAIL  Or  JEA.T 


1  ••? 

•rj 

1 

1 

108 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


HOG  COOP. 

Purpose.  This  coop  is  a  frame  that  fits  over  an  ordinary 
wagon  box.  It  is  made  principally  for  hauling  hogs,  altho 
sheep,  calves,  or  cattle  are  easily  carried  in  the  same  coop. 
Some  men  haul  hogs  in  a  tight  box,  but  this  is  sometimes 
fatal  to  fat  hogs  in  hot  weather  for  they  sometimes  smother 
to  death. 

Material.     Yellow  pine. 
Eleven  pieces  J4"x4"xl6'. 
One  piece  H"x4"xl2'. 
One  piece  34"x8"xl4'. 
Four  wagon  box  rods. 
Four  dozen  fg"x2l/2"  bolts. 
A  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  dimensions  of  pieces  may  be  easily 
found  from  the  drawing. 


Tools.     Saws,  plane,  square,  rule  pencil,  brace, 
f"  bits,  monkey  wrench  and  hammer. 


and 


Directions  and  Assembly.  Notice  that  one  16'  board  will 
make  one  piece  each  of  side  strip  and  end  gate.  The  8' 
board  makes  the  smaller  strips  for  outside  and  inside  cor- 
ners. Accurate  measurements  should  be  taken  from  the 


wagon  box  for  which  you  expect  to  make  this  coop.  The 
strips  on  each  side  of  the  end  gate  of  the  coop  must  cor- 
respond to  those  of  the  wagon  box.  Lay  on  the  floor  of  the 
shop  six  inside  strips,  the  narrow  short  strips  at  the  ends, 
and  the  long  upright  strips  in  the  middle.  Lay  on  these,  at 
the  upper  end,  a  long  side  piece,  placing  the  narrow  strips 
flush  with  the  ends,  and  allowing  a  \"  space  for  the  end 
gate.  Divide  the  other  distances  equally  for  the  middle 
strips.  Put  on  to  these  the  four  outside  pieces  in  the  places 
shown  in  the  drawing.  Drive  a  nail  thru  all  these  to  hold 
them  temporarily.  Slide  in  another  long  strip  leaving  a 
4J"  space,  and  nail  as  before.  Likewise  put  on  the  other 
two  strips.  In  each  of  these  joints  bore  a  VV"  hole,  and 
put  in  a  bolt,  driving  another  nail  to  make  a  strong  joint. 
Carefully  clinch  all  nails.  Make  the  other  side  in  the  same 
manner.  The  end  gates  are  made  in  the  same  manner,  but 
they  are  smaller  and  more  easily  handled.  Lay  down  the 
two  outside  strips  and  place  on  these  the  cross  strips,  then 
the  inside  upright  strips.  Make  sure  that  the  ends  are 
straight,  then  nail  and  bolt  the  joints  as  before.  When  you 
have  completed  the  end  gates  and  are  ready  to  put  the  coop 
together,  notice  the  holes  for  the  rods  in  the  side  view  of 
the  drawing.  The  lower  rod  is  put  in  the  gate  outside  to 
keep  the  animal  from  pushing  it  out,  while  the  top  rod  is 
put  in  on  the  inside  to  balance  the  pressure. 


HOG  COOP 

To  TIT  WAGON  Box  IN  PRECEDING  DRAWING 


PLATE  £0 


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10 '-9- 


no 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


HAY  FRAME. 

Purpose.  The  hay  frame  is  one  article  that  is  nearly 
always  made  at  home  on  the  farm.  There  are  many  types 
of  hay  frames  or  hay  racks :  the  flat  rack  for  a  low  "handy 
wagon,"  the  rack  with  bows  at  the  back  which  curve  up 
over  the  hind  wheels,  and  the  box  rack  used  to  a  great 
extent  in  wheat  growing  countries.  The  box  rack  given 
here  is  selected  from  many  styles  of  the  box  rack.  Rough 
lumber  can  be  used  to  good  advantage  in  its  construction. 

Material. 

(1)  Two  pieces  2"xlO"xl4'  red  elm  or  pine. 

(2)  Three  pieces  2"x6"xl6'. 

(3)  Two  pieces  2"x4"xl4'. 

(4)  One  piece  2"x4"xl2/. 

(5)  Three  pieces  2"x4"x8'. 

(6)  Three  pieces  ^"xl2"x!4'. 

(7)  Six  pieces  %"xlO"x!4'. 

(8)  Four  pieces  ?i"x6"x!6'. 

(9)  Two  pieces  ^"x6"xl2". 

(10)  One  piece  %"x6"x!4'. 

(11)  Twenty-six  bolts  ^"x4^". 

(12)  Twelve  bolts  ^"x3". 

(13)  Eight  bolts  y2"x4". 

(14)  Sixteen  bolts  J/Txl8". 

(15)  Sixteen  pieces  strap  iron  ^"xl54"x454". 

(16)  A  number  of  8d.,  lOd.  and  16d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.  The  bill  may  be  made  out  by  the  pupil. 
In  most  cases  the  bill  of  stock  nearly  corresponds  with  the 
list  of  materials.  In  following  the  directions  given  below, 
and  the  drawing,  the  bill  of  stock  may  be  made  out  as  you 
proceed  with  the  work. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  hammer,  square,  try-square,  T- 
bevel,  rule,  pencil,  gage,  brace,  f"  and  \"  bits,  post  drill 
with  \"  drill  and  chisel. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  Taper  the  four  cross  arms 
as  shown  in  the  end  view  of  the  drawing.  Begin  to  taper 
these  cross  arms  24"  in  from  each  end,  and  finish  ends  to 


about  4"  wide.     Saw  out  a  notch  at  each  end  of  the  cross 
arm  If"  x  If"  to  allow  the  two  pieces  made  from  the  stud 
ding  to  fit  flush  with  the  end  and  top. 

Lay  on  the  floor  the  two  2"  x  6"  pieces  fourteen  feet 
apart,  and  lay  the  2"  x  4"  pieces  at  correct  places.  Place 
on  these  the  two  pieces  2"  x  10"  x  14'  in  the  position  shown 
in  the  top  view  of  the  drawing.  These  pieces  are  3'  2" 
apart  over  the  hind  wheels  and  2'  8"  apart  over  the  front 
wheels.  Place  on  the  four  cross-arms  at  proper  places. 
Mark  and  bore  holes  in  the  lower  cross  pieces.  Drill  the 
holes  in  the  iron  straps  3J"  from  center  to  center.  The  con- 
struction of  these  joints  is  shown  in  detail.  There  are  eight 
of  them  and  they  require  the  most  careful  work  of  the 
whole  problem.  When  these  joints  are  all  made,  nail  on 
the  If"  x  If"  pieces  at  the  end  of  the  cross-arms.  Saw  out 
and  bolt  on  the  front  and  back  ladder  pieces. 

Bolt  and  nail  on  the  corner  uprights.  Brace  the  ladder 
pieces  by  a  board  2"  x  6"  cut  to  the  right  length.  Notch 
these  out  to  fit,  and  nail  on.  Nail  the  crosspieces  onto  both 
ladders,  putting  one  bolt  in  each  end. 

Fit  in  the  floor  of  the  rack,  and  nail.  Likewise  nail  the 
covering  onto  the  cross-arms. 

Put  on  the  side  slanting  pieces,  using  one  bolt  in  each  end 
and  finishing  with  nails.  The  last  piece,  No.  17,  goes  at  the 
top  of  the  ladder. 

Put  on  the  cleats  at  D  and  E.  The  cleats  at  D  prevent 
the  rack  from  sliding  forward  and  backward,  and  those  at  E 
are  to  prevent  the  front  end  slipping  from  side  to  side. 

The  floor  of  the  rack  is  narrow  at  the  front  end  to  allow 
the  wagon  being  turned  in  a  much  smaller  space. 

Hardware  for  the  eight  joints  shown  in  detail  may  be 
bought,  but  they  are  often  more  troublesome  than  the  home 
made  kind  shown  in  the  detail.  This  kind  of  joint  is  often 
made  by  running  a  bolt  down  thru  these  three  pieces  shown 
in  detail,  but  this  is  poor  construction,  since  each  piece  is 
weakened  to  a  great  extent. 


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DETAIL  Or  CON - 

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A-B-C.Erc. 


—A'-O*— 


ttr    ire 


112 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


PIGEON  HOUSE. 

Purpose.  This  house  is  designed  to  serve  a  colony  of 
pigeons,  there  being  fourteen  separate  nesting  boxes.  It 
will  appeal  to  the  boy  or  man  interested  in  pigeons,  and  the 
making  of  this  box  will  add  interest  to  the  pigeons  them- 
selves, as  well  as  to  give  training  in  shopwork  and  con- 
struction. 

The  house  should  be  placed  on  a  platform  well  up  out 
of  the  reach  of  cats  and  other  animals. 

Material. 

(1)  One  piece  ?x"xl2"xlO'  for  front  pieces. 

(2)  One  piece  H"^l2"xl2'  for  side  pieces. 

(3)  One  piece  %"xl2"x!2'  for  middle  and  upper  floors. 

(4)  One.  piece  2i"xl2"xlO'  for  lower  floor  and  lower  cross- 

wise partitions. 

(5)  One  piece  ?4"xl2"xl4'  for  all  middle  partitions,  also  lower 

lengthwise   and   upper   crosswise   partitions   and   sup- 
ports for  perches. 

(6)  One  piece  ^2"xl2"xl6'  for  roof  boards  and  finishing  cas- 

ing for  roof. 

(7)  A  number  of  8d.  common  nails,  shingle  nails,  and  finishing 

nails. 

(8)  One-half  bunch  of  14"  shingles. 

Bill  of  Stock.  You  will  notice  in  the  list  of  materials  that 
you  are  told  into  what  each  piece  is  to  be  made.  By  follow- 
ing the  directions  and  drawing  carefully  no  trouble  will 
be  experienced  in  making  out  the  sizes  of  each  piece. 

Caution.  Most  of  this  house  is  made  from  12"  lumber. 
If  for  any  reason  the  lumber  should  be  less  than  12"  shorten 
the  length  and  width  of  the  house  enough  to  make  it  cor- 
respond to  the  widths  used. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  hammer,  square,  try-square,  T- 
bevel,  gage,  brace,  \"  bit,  extension  bit,  rule,  pencil,  chisel, 
key-hoie  saw. 


Directions.  Saw  four  front  and  back  pieces  from  10" 
board  mentioned  in  No.  1  in  list  of  materials.  In  making 
roof  slant  of  45°  angle,  make  one  sawing  do  for  both  pieces. 
Lay  pieces  forming  fronts  on  to  bench  in  position.  Lay 
out  and  make  openings,  both  ends  and  fronts  being  alike. 

To  make  side  pieces,  lay  off  on  piece  No.  2  in  list  of 
material,  2'  and  mark  across.  Set  bevel  to  edges  of  this 
board  and  draw  lines  on  both  edges.  This  makes  entire 
length  of  this  board  2'J".  Saw  carefully  and  you  can  make 
one  sawing  bevel  two  pieces.  Cut  six  of  these  side  pieces. 

For  floors  and  partitions,  except  top  partition  under  the 
roof,  saw  up  numbers  Nos.  3  to  8  in  list  of  material  to  cor- 
rect dimensions. 

To  make  top  partition  cut  the  piece  12fa"  long,  draw 
diagonal  and  saw,  making  two  triangular  pieces.  Saw  off 
one  point  on  each  triangle,  leaving  the  board  10}?s" 
wide.  These  two  placed  together  form  the  roof  partition. 

Saw  out  roof  boards,  and  bevel  two  pieces  at  45°  angle 
as  shown  at  A  in  drawing. 

Saw  two  pieces  for  roof  casings  to  dimensions  shown  at 
B  in  drawing,  and  bevel  one  edge  at  a  45°  angle. 

Set  T-bevel  at  60°.  Lay  off  and  cut  twenty-four  pieces 
for  supports  for  perches.  Make  perches  from  left  over 
pieces  or  ¥'  dowels. 

Assembly.  The  floors  in  each  case  should  have  the  12" 
board  in  the  middle  and  the  6"  boards  on  each  side  so  as  to 
break  joints  with  the  front  and  back  pieces. 

Nail  middle  piece  of  first  floor  and  lengthwise  partition 
together  at  proper  places.  Nail  on  separately  the  four 
pieces  forming  the  front  and  back.  Put  in  rest  of  first  floor. 
Raise  to  upright  position,  and  put  in  lower  crosswise  par- 
titions. Nail  on  second  floor.  Put  on  six  side  pieces,  nail- 
ing first  to  middle  floor.  Turn  the  house  over  and  nail  to 
first  floor.  Place  and  nail  in  all  second  story  partitions, 
then  third  floor  and  roof  partition. 


PIGEON  HOUJE. 


PLATE  SL 


114 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


Nail  on  the  roof  boards,  putting  the  two  beveled  boards 
on  first.  Miter  piece  B  at  each  end,  taking  exact  measure- 
ments from  roof  boards,  and  nail. 

Work  out  pieces  marked  C  in  drawing  and  nail  on  to 
roof  boards,  the  lower  end  being  mitered  to  fit  piece  B. 
Saw  off  extra  portion  below  piece  B,  and  miter  upper  end  at 
45°  angle. 

Put  on  shingles,  allowing  them  to  extend  over  the  ends 
\"  and  over  eaves  1". 

Put  on  ridge  boards,  first  beveling  them  to  correspond  to 
slope  of  upper  row  of  shingles. 

Fit  all  perches  and  supports  together,  and  put  in  small 
finishing  nail  thru  the  ends  of  each  to  hold  the  dowel  in 
place. 

Nail  the  supports  to  the  sides  of  the  house,  the  upper  edge 
of  the  support  being  in  each  case  1-J"  above  the  lower  edge 
of  the  opening  in  the  house. 

Give  two  good  coats  of  paint. 

BRUSH  AND  CURRY-COMB  CABINET  FOR  BARN. 

Purpose.  This  is  a  convenient  box  to  keep  about  the 
barn  for  the  curry-combs,  brushes,  medicines  and  other 
articles  usually  stuck  in  odd,  out-of-the-way  places.  Articles 
always  kept  in  one  place  can  be  found  quickly. 

Material.    Yellow  pine  or  white  pine. 
One  piece  J4"x8"xll'. 
One  piece  ^"x8"x4'10". 
One  pair  1J^"  butt  hinges. 
One  screen  hook. 
A  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  finishing  nails,  also  some  glue. 

Bill  of  Stock.  In  making  out  the  bill  of  stock  all  pieces 
should  be  made  to  dimensions  shown  in  drawing,  except  the 
two  side  pieces  for  the  panel  door,  which  should  be  made 
2"  longer  as  is  usual  in  making  panel  doors 


Tools.  Saws,  plane  and  plow,  brace,  \"  bit,  try-square, 
rule,  pencil,  gage  and  hammer. 

Directions.  In  making  this  door  follow  the  rules  usually 
given  for  making  panels.  Leave  the  rought  material  some- 
what wider  than  the  dimensions  called  for  in  the  drawing; 
plane  one  joint  edge  on  each  of  the  four  pieces;  lay  out  and 
make  the  mortises  and  tenons ;  plow  out  the  groove  for  the 
panel ;  fit  the  panel,  and  glue  only  the  joints,  leaving  the 
panel  free  to  shrink  and  swell.  After  the  glue  has  set,  saw 
off  extra  lengths,  and  plane  down  to  exact  dimensions. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  sides  to  the  top  and  bottom.  Nail 
in  the  shelf ;  then  nail  on  the  back.  Lastly  put  on  the  front 
casing  and  fit  and  hinge  the  door. 

SCALES  AND  A  CONVENIENT  CASE  FOR  WEIGH- 
ING AND  SAMPLING  MILK. 

Purpose.  The  case  shown  in  the  drawing  is  one  to  be 
used  by  the  farmer  running  a  dairy.  The  shelves  afford  a 
place  for  keeping  bottles  and  material  for  sampling  milk. 
The  scales  are  for  the  purpose  of  weighing  the  milk  from  an 
individual  cow.  The  door  that  is  let  down  forms  a  desk 
on  which  to  write  when  jotting  down  any  data.  The  scales 
hang  on  an  iron  arm  which  can  be  swung  around  in  front 
or  a  little  to  one  side  of  the  case. 

When  not  in  use  the  arm  and  scales  are  swung  around 
into  the  box,  and  the  door  is  closed  until  used  again.  The 
box  should  be  nailed  to  the  side  of  the  dairy  house  at  the 
most  convenient  height  for  the  man  who  is  to  use  it. 

Material.    Yellow  pine  or  basswood. 
One  piece  34"x8"xlO'. 
One  pair  2"  butt  hinges. 
Three  staples. 

One  piece  Norway  iron  Vi"  dia.,  and  2'6"  long. 
One  pair  scales. 
A  number  of  8d.  common  nails  and  8d.  finishing  nails. 


PLATE i3 


BRUJH  AND  CURRY-COMB  CABINET 


AND  A  CONVENIENT  CASE 
FOR.  WEIGHING  AND  SAMPLING  MILK- 


8"  — 

FA.NEL 


8"- 


116 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


Bill  of  Stock.  Make  all  pieces  to  dimensions  shown  in 
the  drawing. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  try-square,  rule,  pencil,  hammer,  and 
forging  tools. 

Directions.  Saw  and  plane  to  dimensions  all  pieces 
shown  in  the  drawing.  This  will  finish  all  but  the  upright 
partition  piece.  This  has  the  upper  end  cut  away  so  as  to 
allow  the  rod  supporting  the  scales  to  swing  freely.  The 
greatest  work  will  be  in  making  the  iron  rod  and  brace  in 
the  forge  shop.  The  door  is  made  of  two  pieces  glued 
together,  or  two  strips  may  be  screwed  crosswise  on  the 
outside. 

Assembly.  Nail  the  top  and  bottom  to  the  sides,  put  in 
the  partition  and  shelves  and  lastly  the  back.  Put  in  the 
iron  rod  and  brace  with  the  staples,  in  the  position  shown 
in  the  drawing.  Fasten  the  door  with  hinges  at  the  bottom, 
and  a  small  hook  and  screw-eye  at  the  top. 

BEE  HIVES. 

Bee  raising  is  becoming  more  and  more  popular,  not  only 
for  the  interest  and  pleasure  which  the  bees  afford,  but  for 
the  profit  derived  from  them.  Many  farm  homes  are  amply 
supplied  with  honey  to  the  extent  that  it  practically  takes 
the  place  of  sugar  for  all  cooking  purposes.  The  village 
and  small  town  afford  most  excellent  places  for  raising  bees, 
and  it  is  altogether  possible  to  keep  them  in  cities. 

The  accompanying  drawing  is  for  a  very  complete  and 
well  equipped  hive,  such  as  a  man  would  wish  to  use 
in  extensive  bee  raising.  The  hive  stand  is  used  when 
the  hives  are  kept  on  the  ground.  The  front  slanting  board 
affords  a  landing  place  for  the  bees,  as  they  fly  home  laden 
with  honey.  The  feeding  board  given  in  detail  is  a  platform 
where  bees  may  feed  if  the  left-over  honey  is  exhausted 
and  there  is  no  feed  to  tide  the  bees  over  until  summer. 


The  hive  proper  is  for  the  breeding  comb,  and  the  place 
where  the  bees  store  food  for  themselves  during  the  winter, 
altho  this  also  is  taken  out  if  so  desired.  The  supers  which 
are  placed  above  the  hive  are  for  additional  honey  after  the 
hive  proper  has  been  filled.  It  is  in  these  supers  that  the 
comb  honey  is  produced  for  market. 

Material. 

One  piece  7/g"xlO"xl2'  pine. 

One  piece  %"x6"xl4'. 

One  piece  H"xl2"xl4". 

One  piece  %"x8"x!7". 

One  piece  f£"xlO"x9'. 

One  piece  !4"x8"xl8". 

One  piece  galvanized  iron  21^"x2'3^"  for  metal  top  cover. 

A  number  of  staples  to  go  in  at  D  in  foundation  comb  frames. 

A  small  quantity  of  tin  strips  J4"  wide  to  use  on  comb  frames 

and  at  C  in  drawing. 
A  number  of  different  sizes  of  nails  and  brads. 

Tools.  Saws,  planes,  chisel,  knife,  rule,  pencil,  try-square, 
tin  shears,  gage,  plow  and  hammer. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 
HIVE. 

Two  pieces  7/6"x9!^"x20"  for  sides. 
Two  pieces  %"x9^"x!3I/$"  for  front  and  back. 
Two  pieces  !/£"x54"x4I/2"  for  adjusts  for  opening. 
Two  pieces  I"xl^"x5"  for  handles. 

SUPER. 

Two  pieces  ^"x55^"x20"  for  sides. 

Two  pieces  %"x5%"xl3I/r  for  front  and  back. 

Two  pieces  y2"x4"xl2lA"  for  support  for  sections. 

TOP  COVER. 

One  piece  ^"xl4"x20"  for  top. 

Two  pieces  7/6"x3"x21M"  for  sides. 

Two  pieces  %"x3"xl4'/2*  for  front  and  back. 


r 


illll     Mil 


•5"- 


14'- 


BEEHIVE 


•T 

V) 


•ZO" 


Illlll I    Illl   -|' PEEP 


-METAL  Top  COVER, 


-FEEDING  BOAIU? 


-— HIVE.5TAND 


118 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


FEEDING  BOARD. 

(1)  Two  pieces  H"x2l/2*x21}4"  for  sides. 

(2)  One  piece  %"x2^"x!4"  for  back. 


One  piece  %"x9'A"x.\2%"  for  front  platform. 
One  piece  J£"xll^"xl2^4"  for  back  platform. 
One  piece  %"xlj£"xl2"  for  division. 
Nine  pieces  ^"x^'xll^"  for  partitions. 


(3) 
(4) 
(5) 
(6) 


HIVE  STAND. 

(1)  Two  pieces  %"x4"x2'2^"   for  sides. 

(2)  One  piece  ^"x4"x!4"  for  back. 

(3)  One  piece  ^"x8!4"xl4"  for  front. 


COMB  FRAMES. 

(1)  Eight  pieces  5 

(2)  Sixteen  pieces  H"xl-fe"x9 

(3)  Eight  pieces  *4"x$4"x\7>/2 

(4)  Eight  pieces  5 

'comb. 


for  upper  part  of  frame. 
for  ends. 

for  lower  part  of  frame. 
for  supports  for  foundation 


SUPPORTS  FOR  SECTIONS  IN  SUPER. 

Seven  pieces  ^"xl%"x\6%"  for  lower  supports. 
Fourteen  pieces  ^"xl^4"xS^"  for  uprights. 

PARTITIONS  BETWEEN  SECTIONS  IN  SUPER. 
Twenty-four  pieces  TV"x%"xl6". 
Twelve  pieces  ^"x%"x5". 
Thirty-six  pieces  -rs"x^"x4^". 

Directions  for  Making  Hive.  Plow  out  the  groove  on  the 
end  pieces  at  the  top  f"  wide  and  5"  deep  for  the  projections 
on  the  upper  ends  of  the  foundation  comb  frame  to  rest  on. 
Make  the  joints  on  the  ends  as  shown  in  the  detail  on  the 
first  drawing.  Nail  the  joints  together  carefully,  making 
them  insect  proof  to  protect  the  bees.  Put  on  the  handles 
as  shown  in  the  drawing. 

Super.  The  joints  for  the  super  are  the  same  as  for  the 
hive  and  they  are  made  in  the  same  way. 

Top.  Make  the  top  loose  enough  so  that  it  will  fit  down 
loosely  over  the  super.  To  do  this  leave  the  dimensions  of 
the  14"  x  20"  board  a  little  full.  After  the  top  has  been 


nailed  together  bend  and  put  on  the  metal  top  cover.  A 
brick  or  some  weight  is  usually  put  on  the  top  to  hold  the 
hive  and  supers  together  in  case  of  a  high  wind. 

Feeding  Board.  Cut  all  pieces  to  dimensions  given  in  the 
bill  of  stock.  Notice  the  construction  of  the  feeding  board 
in  the  detail  sheet.  Nail  piece  No.  5  to  piece  No.  4  first, 
then  No.  3  to  No.  4.  Nail  on  the  sides  and  end,  and  lastly 
the  small  cleats. 

Hive  Stand.  This  may  be  made  of  a  poorer  grade  of 
lumber  than  the  hive  and  super.  Measure  down  4"  on  one 
edge  of  piece  marked  No.  1  in  bill  of  stock,  and  draw  line 
from  opposite  corner.  Saw  to  the  line.  Nail  on  the  back 
piece.  Bevel  both  edges  of  No.  3  so  that  the  upper  end  will 
fit  up  close  to  the  feeding  board  and  the  bottom  will  be 
straight  with  the  lower  edge  of  the  stand. 

Comb  Frame.  Cut  all  pieces  to  dimensions  given  in  the 
bill  of  stock.  The  detail  of  the  drawing  will  show  the  kinds 
of  joints  to  be  made  on  pieces  Nos.  1  and  2  in  bill  of  stock. 
These  pieces  should  have  a  little  glue  placed  in  the  joints 
as  well  as  a  few  small  brads.  Piece  No.  4  in  the  bill  of 
stock  is  the  one  most  likely  to  be  misunderstood.  A  cross 
section  is  shown  and  called  B  in  the  detail  sheet.  The 
small  -fa"  groove  is  made  with  a  very  fine  circular  saw, 
set  to  saw  $"  deep.  The  -fa"  groove  holds  the  foundation 
comb.  Wedge  a  small  strip  of  wood  into  the  £"_  groove, 
thus  holding  the  foundation  comb  firmly.  The  strip  of  tin 
put  over  the  joint  in  each  case  is  to  add  strength  and  to 
keep  the  bees  from  gluing  the  frame  next  to  it  together. 
The  staple  marked  D  in  the  detail  sheet  is  for  the  same 
purpose  as  above,  namely  to  keep  the  frame  out  away  from 
the  edge  of  the  box.  Also  the  piece  of  tin  marked  C  is  to 
raise  up  the  frame  to  keep  it  from  being  glued  down  by  the 
bees.  This  piece  of  tin  runs  the  full  width  of  the  box. 

Supports  for  Sections  in  Super.  These  are  easily  and 
simply  made.  They  consist  of  two  end  pieces  and  a  bottom 


C. 

D 


DETAILS  OF  BEE  HIVE. 


DETAILS  OF 


f 


\ 


A 

MAKE 


ID 

JfU- 


1 


6rcTioi^  THRU  FEEDING  BOAJID 

END  VIEW  or  COMB  FRAME 


10  • 


0 


-17- 


FOUNDATION  COME. 


J 


r:-'i 


TIN 


CKOSS  SECTION  THRU  B 
'.~t  SHOWING  ficwTo  INSERT 

FOUNDATIOK 


C 

TIN 


H 


PLATE  if 


'"> 
1 

''mo 
"1 


120 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


piece   nailed   together,  and   small   steel  pins.     These   pins 
may  be  made  from  wire  nails,  the  heads  being  filed  off. 

Partitions  between  the  Sections  in  Super.  These  par- 
titions call  for  very  thin  pieces  of  wood  and  must  be  handled 
carefully.  None  of  the  pieces  need  to  be  planed  or  smoothed 
down.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that  these  be  placed 
between  the  sections  but  it  leads  the  bees  to  fill  the  boxes 
more  evenly.  A  small  toothed  circular  saw  is  almost  neces- 
sary in  making  these  pieces.  Saw  out  all  pieces  to  dimen- 
sions given  in  bill  of  stock.  Make  the  joints  on  the  end 
pieces  by  running  the  circular  saw  set  about  £"  deep  down 
thru  the  middle  of  the  piece.  Nail  them  together  with  very 
small  brads  and  use  a  brad  for  the  pivot,  cutting  it  off  if 
too  long. 

BEE  HIVE  FOR  THE  AMATEUR. 

Ask  your  grocer  for  a  cracker  box,  or  some  box  of  about 
the  same  size.  In  the  bottom  of  one  end  of  the  box  cut  a 
slot  \"  deep  and  4"  long.  Nail  on  two  small  cleats  length- 
wise about  \\"  up  from  the  bottom,  and  to  these  nail  four 
or  five  crosspieces.  This  platform  is  a  precautionary 
measure  to  prevent  the  comb  from  breaking  and  falling 
down  when  the  box  is  removed  from  the  tree  in  the  fall. 
Buy  a  piece  of  foundation  comb  8"  x  16"  and  cut  into  strips 
2"  x  16".  Nail  in  a  small  cleat  across  each  end  about  \" 
down,  or  the  width  of  the  boards  you  are  to  use  for  the 
first  top.  Lay  in  one  of  these  strips  of  wood,  resting  it  on 
the  cleats.  Now  place  next  to  this  a  strip  of  foundation 
comb,  bending  it  over  the  edge  of  the  wood  a  little.  Melt 
the  turned  over  edge  of  the  foundation  comb  just  enough  to 
make  it  stick  to  the  piece  of  wood.  Finish  out  the  top, 
alternating  the  strips  of  wood  and  the  foundation  comb. 
The  last  strip  of  wood  should  fit  tight,  being  wedged  down 


into  place.  This  first  top  should  be  flush  with  the  top  of  the 
box.  Now  fasten  on  the  regular  top  that  came  with  the 
box,  or  one  similar  to  it.  Nail  a  2"  landing  board  below  the 
opening  in  front. 

Screw  on  at  the  back  a  piece  \"  x  2"  x  24"  allowing  it  to 
stick  up  at  least  a  foot  over  the  back.  This  is  to  nail  onto 
the  tree  when  the  hive  is  set  out  to  catch  wild  bees. 

Select  a  tree  with  a  branch  coming  out  at  a  right  angle  as 
nearly  as  possible.  Nail  the  strip  of  wood  at  the  back  to 
the  tree  trunk  with  a  16d.  nail,  leaving  the  head  of  the  nail 
free  so  it  can  be  easily  drawn  with  a  claw  hammer.  Fui 
up  these  boxes  early  in  the  spring  before  the  bees  begin  to 
swarm.  The  wild  bees  may  be  caught  in  the  trees  near  tin- 
house  or  barns,  in  the  woods  or  fields,  or  by  the  roadside. 
They  may  then  be  brought  to  the  house  if  it  is  desired,  or 
they  may  be  left  wherever  they  are  caught  until  the  honey 
season  is  over.  In  moving  the  swarm  it  is  best  to  go  after 
the  bees  are  quiet  for  the  evening,  and  close  the  slot  opening 
to  keep  them  all  inside.  After  setting  the  box  in  its  new 
place  the  slot  may  be  opened  and  the  bees  will  begin  work 
with  the  new  day.  A  long  shelf  nailed  to  the  barn,  or  in 
any  suitable  place,  furnishes  an  ideal  place  to  keep  several 
hives. 

This  simpler  bee  hive  is  one  of  the  best  problems  that  can 
be  used  for  boys.  They  take  a  very  high  dgree  of  interest 
in  its  construction,  and  it  gives  them  a  very  profitable 
summer  interest.  Of  seven  hives  put  out  in  this  manner, 
the  author  secured  six  good  swarms  of  bees  in  one  season. 
This  was  in  Southern  Minneota. 

Mother  Goose  was  a  very  modest  bird  when  she  said : 

"A  swarm  of  bees  in  May 

Is  worth  a  load  of  hay. 

A  swarm  of  bees  in  June 

Is  worth  a  silver  spoon.'* 


OPENING 
LANDING  BOARJ> 


CTLOJJ  JECTION 


LENGTHWUE  JECTION 


FOUNDATION 


122 


PROBLEMS     IN     FARM     WOODWORK 


CONCRETE  MIXING  BOX. 

Purpose.  The  use  of  concrete  is  becoming  almost  uni- 
versal. Concrete  is  easily  mixed  and  it  does  not  take  an 
expert  tradesman  to  do  a  great  many  simple  kinds  of  work. 
Many  farmers  make  their  own  walks,  cisterns,  vegetable 
cellars,  fence  posts  and  other  things. 

On  the  drawing  are  shown  a  small  mixing  box  and  ? 
form  for  a  small  concrete  post. 

Material.    Yellow  pine. 
One  piece  %"xl2"x!6'. 
One  piece  %"x8"x!2'. 
One  piece  %"x3"x9'. 
One  piece  !J4"x8"x6'. 
Four  laths  or  thin  strips. 
A  number  of  6d.  and  8d.  common  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.     Finished  dimensions. 

(1)  Three  pieces  ?-6"xl2"x5'4"  for  bottom. 

(2)  Two  pieces  %"x8"x5'8}4"  for  sides. 

(3)  Two  pieces  Ij4"x8"x3'  for  ends. 

(4)  Three  pieces  %"x3"x3'  for  cross-braces. 

(5)  Four  laths  2'3". 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  T-bevel,  rule,  pencil,  gage, 
chisel  and  hammer. 

Directions.  Saw  to  dimensions  all  pieces  mentioned  in 
the  bill  of  stock.  Set  the  T-bevel  to  an  angle  of  3"  to  6". 
(See  illustration  Plate  II.)  Plane  to  this  angle  one  edge  of 


each  of  the  end  pieces,  No.  3  in  bill  of  stock.  Set  gage  to 
§"  and  gage  across  each  end,  gaging  from  the  widest  face, 
as  this  will  be  to  the  inside  of  the  mixing  box.  Measure  in 
on  the  inside  face  $",  draw  a  line,  and  saw  down  to  the 
gage  line.  Chisel  out  the  material  for  the  joint.  This  joint 
shows  plainly  in  the  top  view  of  the  drawing.  Shape  the 
side  pieces,  No.  2  in  bill  of  stock,  and  measure  up  6"  from 
one  edge  on  the  end.  Set  the  T-bevel  to  this,  draw  the 
lines,  and  saw.  Saw  off  the  upper  corner  perpendicular  to 
the  edge  just  made  at  the  6"  point  mentioned  above. 

Assembly.  Lay  the  three  bottom  cross-braces  on  the 
floor  and  nail  to  these  the  floor  of  the  mixing  board.  Nail 
the  side  and  end  pieces  together,  and  then  nail  this  frame  to 
the  floor.  Nail  the  laths  to  the  bottom  over  the  cracks 
between  the  boards. 


FORM  FOR  CONCRETE  POST. 
Material. 

One  piece  J4"x8"x8'. 

One  piece  X"xl2"x8'. 

A  number  of  8d.  common  nails  and  several  feet  of  wire. 

The  construction  of  this  form  is  so  simple  that  the  entire 
line  of  procedure  is  left  to  the  student.  After  filling  in  the 
concrete,  stick  the  wires  into  position,  the  loop  end  being 
embedded  in  the  concrete.  The  two  loose  ends  are  for 
fastening  the  wire  as  it  is  stretched  into  place. 


V^ 


CONCRITE  AffiNG  JOX 


—  5'-10" 


JcO 


PLATES? 

FORM  Fon  CONCRETE  POJT 


i 


n  INTO  CONCRETE  ON 
OPEN  JIDE  AFTER. 
CONCRETE  HAS  JEEN  b 
PLACED  IN  FOILM..  ji. 


124 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


CONCRETE  FORM  FOR  SILO  FOUNDATION. 

Purpose.  This  concrete  form  for  a  silo  foundation  was 
designed  and  built  in  the  Manual  Training  Department  at 
Spring  Valley,  Minn.,  and  was  used  by  the  agricultural 
teacher  in  his  work  of  helping  the  farmers  build  their  silos. 
Each  farmer  paid  a  small  fee  for  the  rental  of  this  form  to 
offset  the  cost  of  construction.  A  well  built  form  can  be 
used  for  as  many  as  twenty  or  two  dozen  silo  foundations. 
The  ordinary  carpenter  is  unacquainted  with  this  kind  of 
construction,  since  it  is  not  usually  in  his  line  of  work. 
It  is  a  most  practical  and  useful  article  for  a  shop  problem 
in  any  agricultural  school. 

The  diameters  of  silos  vary  greatly,  but  for  the  ordinary 
farmer  with  a  small  dairy  or  stock  herd,  the  fourteen  foot 
silo  is  coming  to  be  recognized  as  the  standard  size,  the 
height  varying  to  suit  the  farmer.  Brick,  tile,  and  stave 
silos  are  built  with  the  concrete  base  from  twenty  to  twenty- 
four  inches  high  and  twelve  inches  thick. 

In  building  this  form,  the  best  grade  of  lumber  should 
be  used,  especially  for  the  boards  that  are  to  be  bent.  The 
lumber  should  be  as  free  from  knots  as  possible.  Selected 
white  pine  is  especially  adaptable  for  the  boards  to  be  bent. 
The  remainder  of  the  form  should  be  of  good  common 
lumber. 

Material. 

Six  pieces  ^"xlO"xl4'. 
Eight  pieces  ^"xlO"xl2/. 
Two  pieces  2"x6"xl4'. 
Three  pieces  I^"x6"xl4'. 
iece        "x6"x!4'. 


Three  pieces  I%"x6"xl4'. 

Three  pieces  ji"x6"x!4'. 

Nine  pieces  2//x4"xl4'. 

Three  pieces  ^"x4"xI2/. 

One  piece  WxlVxVf. 

One  piece  ^*xlO"xl6'  (to  make  pieces 

An  assortment  of  nails. 


Bill  of  Stock.  The  material  will  be  cut  to  correct  dimen- 
sions as  the  work  proceeds. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  rule,  hammer  and  compass ; 
large  compass  made  of  an  8'  strip  of  wood,  nail  and  pencil ; 
power  circular  saw. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  Before  actual  construction 
begins  the  six  pieces  I"  x  10"  x  14'  and  pieces  I"  x  10"  x 
12'  should  be  sawed  as  shown  in  detail  sheet.  Saw  the 
boards  every  six  inches  to  the  depth  of  f"  with  a  saw  that 
cuts  about  |"  kerf.  If  the  saw  cuts  a  bigger  kerf  the  space 
between  saw  cuts  may  be  lengthened  up  to  eight  inches  but 
this  is  not  desirable.  The  boards  bend  better  and  more 
smoothly  if  cut  6"  apart,  and  they  are  less  likely  to  break  at 
the  joints.  While  sawing  it  is  just  as  well  to  rip  the  2x4's 
into  2x2's  since  it  will  need  to  be  done  later. 

After  sawing  these,  the  six  boards  14'  long  should 
be  taken  to  a  large  tank,  pond  or  stream  where  they 
are  soaked  for  twenty-four  hours  or  longer.  These  are  not 
taken  out  until  they  are  ready  to  be  used.  Weight  or  tie 
the  boards  entirely  underneath  the  surface  so  that  the  sun 
will  not  affect  them. 

You  are  now  ready  to  begin  the  construction  of  the  "half 
wheels,"  as  we  will  call  them  for  conveience.  Draw  a 
straight  line  about  fifteen  feet  long  on  the  floor  in  some 
large  open  space.  Using  the  center  of  this  line  and  a  6V 
radius  draw  a  semi-circle.  Lay  off  a  point  in  the  circum- 
ference on  each  side  of  the  semi-circle  3"  from  the  diameter 
as  shown  in  the  detail.  Put  the  2x6  on  these  points  to  the 
inside.  Allowing  f"  on  each  end  for  the  bending  strips, 
mark  and  saw  this  2x6  marked  as  Dj  to  the  required  angle 
and  length.  Square  end  of  \\"  piece  and  butt  up  against 
D,  at  center  and  mark  off,  being  sure  to  allow  J"  for  bend- 
ing strip.  Saw  and  nail  to  D,.  Bevel  the  edges  of  one  end 
of  another  1}"  piece  to  45°  angles  and  mark  and  saw  D8  and 


CONCRETE  Fom  IDR.  JILO  FOUNDATION 


1 

o 

cvl 


126 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


D4.  Nail  these  in.  In  like  manner  put  in  DB,  D6,  D7  and  D8. 
Next  put  on  DB,  D10  and  D^.  Now  you  are  ready  for  the 
2x2's  which  have  been  sawed  to  20"  in  length.  Nail  these 
Dlt,  etc.,  on  so  that  they  will  project  an  equal  distance  from 
the  center  of  the  spokes. 

Make  the  other  "half  wheel"  in  like  manner. 

Get  your  material  that  has  been  soaking. 

You  are  now  ready  to  put  on  the  rim  of  the  "half  wheel." 
Take  two  pieces  of  6x6  or  a  pile  of  smaller  pieces  as  shown 
at  D,,,  and  elevate  the  spokes  as  shown  in  detail  D.  It 
requires  two  men  at  least  to  do  this  work,  more  are  better. 
Nail  on  the  first  strip  with  its  end  three  inches  or  more 
(if  you  can  spare  it)  below  the  lower  side  of  the  2x6,  or 
first  spoke  of  the  wheel  at  D16.  One  pupil  should  be  nailing 
and  the  other  holding  the  end  at  D15.  In  the  same  manner 
nail  a  strip,  beginning  at  the  opposite  side.  With  a  third 
board  splice  out  the  space  left  open.  If  for  some  reason  the 
boards  do  not  join  exactly  over  a  2x2,  put  in  an  extra  one 
or  a  wide  board  about  £"  x  6"  x  20".  When  this  is  com- 
pleted put  in  an  extra  2x2  between  the  spokes  where  they 
are  most  needed  as  D17.  One  is  needed  in  each  space.  All 
this  work  should  be  done  slowly  and  much  common  sense 
and  patience  must  be  exercised.  The  other  half  of  the 
wheel  is  made  in  the  same  way. 

You  are  now  ready  to  complete  the  connections  between 
the  two  half  wheels.  These  are  shown  in  details  A!  and  A,. 
It  is  necessary  to  make  these  in  this  way  in  order  to  allow 
the  inner  forms  to  be  taken  from  the  wall  when  the  concrete 
has  hardened.  This  lessens  the  chance  of  ruining  the  forms, 
for  if  they  have  to  be  pried  out,  it  is  almost  sure  to  damage 
the  forms.  Cut  a  piece  of  J"  strip  20"  long  just  wide 


enough  so  that  strip  A4  will  come  flush  with  the  end  of  the 
rounded  strip.  Nail  in  this  piece  at  A8  to  the  rounded  strip ; 
then  strip  A4  should  be  nailed  to  A3.  Force  in  rounded 
strip  until  it  conforms  to  the  6|'  circle  and  nail  at  A8.  The 
end  A2  should  be  finished  in  the  same  way  only  \\"  should 
be  allowed  for  strip  B  shown  in  detail  B.  This  strip  B 
is  not  nailed  to  the  form  but  is  held  in  place  by  a  prop  when 
the  form  is  set  up.  When  taking  out  the  forms  this  piece 
is  first  taken  out,  thus  allowing  enough  pla'y  so  that  the 
forms  may  be  lifted  out  easily. 

The  outer  rim  of  the  wheel  is  made  in  four  sections.  It 
is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  soak  the  boards  to  be  used, 
yet  it  renders  them  more  pliable  if  soaked  the  first  time  they 
are  used. 

Cut  twenty  or  more  pieces  one  foot  long  and  ten  inches 
wide  to  be  used  between  the  rims  of  the  wheel  to  keep  it 
exactly  one  foot  wide.  Place  the  sections  around  the  inner 
wheel.  Use  two  sets  of  rods  and  the  extension  pieces  that 
come  with  the  silo  and  begin  tightening.  This  will  draw 
the  outer  form  to  a  circular  shape.  As  you  near  the  size 
you  wish  put  in  the  one  foot  pieces  spoken  of  above  and 
tighten  until  the  outer  and  inner  rims  are  just  one  foot  apart. 
The  one  foot  pieces  may  be  removed  after  you  have  partly 
filled  the  forms. 

When  placing  the  forms  in  position  a  great  deal  of  care 
should  be  taken  to  have  the  top  of  the  form  perfectly  level. 

An  ordinary  hay  frame  is  the  most  convenient  means  of 
transporting  these  forms. 

When  not  in  use  keep  the  forms  under  cover  or  at  least 
in  the  shade  of  a  tree  to  prevent  too  much  action  from  the 
sun. 


DETAILS 


PLATE 59 


DETAILS  OF  JiioFoiiM.  CONSTRUCTION 


AETOOD  OF  JAWING  BOARD  j  To  AAKE  THE/A.BEND 


P13 


128 


PROBLEMS    IN    FARM    WOODWORK 


MOUSE  PROOF  CAGE  FOR  AGRICULTURAL 
EXHIBITS. 

Purpose.  In  schools  where  agriculture  is  taught  it  is 
very  difficult  to  keep  wheat,  oats,  seeds  in  sheaf,  and  weed 
samples  from  being  damaged  by  mice.  This  cage  will  give 
the  necessary  protection  for  the  samples.  Being  screened 
on  every  side  it  allows  free  circulation  of  air  both  above  and 
below  the  samples.  It  may  be  placed  in  such  a  way  as  to 
allow  pupils  to  walk  around  it,  viewing  the  samples  from 
every  side.  It  is  high  enough  for  a  man  to  stand  in,  and 
wide  enough  to  afford  a  path  thru  the  middle  after  samples 
are  hung  on  each  side.  The  dimensions  given  in  the  draw- 
ing may  be  changed  to  suit  the  individual  needs  of  the 
school  or  home. 

Material. 

Eight  pieces   I^"x3!4"xl2'. 

Three  pieces  lH"x3^"xlO'. 

Four  pieces  %"xlO"xl4'  stiiplap. 

One  piece  of  galvanized  screening  3'6"x37'. 

One  piece  of  galvanized  screening  3'x48'. 

One  pair  butt  hinges. 

One  lock  or  catch  of  some  kind. 

A  number  of  tin  tacks  and  an  assortment  of  nails. 

Bill  of  Stock.    Finished  dimensions. 

Four  pieces  134"x3!^"xl2'  for  platform  and  upper  frame. 

Two  pieces  lj4"x3Ji*x37V4"  for  ends  of  platform. 

Two  pieces  l^"x3^"x2'H"  f°r  braces  between  upper  corners. 

Thirteen  pieces  %"xlO"x3'6"  shiplap  for  floor. 

Six  pieces  Ij4"x354"x5'10^"  for  corners  and  door  frame. 

Eight  pieces  lH"xl%"x2'll"  for  screen  braces. 

Ten  pieces  l^"xl24"x2'llA"  for  screen  braces. 

One  piece  l%"xl%"xll'8%"  for  screen  brace. 

Two  pieces  l^'xl^'x^Si^"  for  screen  braces. 


One  piece  IJ^'xl^'xll'SV^"  f°r  screen  brace. 
Two  pieces  ^"x2"x23"  for  door. 
One  piece  ^"xl^"x23"  for  door. 
Two  pieces  %"xl}4"x3'l"  for  door. 
One  piece  %"x3"x24"  for  threshold. 

Tools.  Saws,  plane,  square,  rule,  pencil,  brace,  §"  bit, 
knife,  and  hammer. 

Directions  and  Assembly.  Saw  all  pieces  to  dimensions 
given  in  the  bill  of  stock.  The  bottom  platform  should  be 
made  first,  the  shiplap  being  put  on  crosswise  to  give 
strength.  Twelve  feet  of  the  42"  screen  is  then  laid  and 
tacked  over  the  platform  to  make  the  floor  mouse  proof. 
The  main  part  of  the  frame  is  made  of  studding.  The  braces 
and  inner  parts  used  to  support  the  screen  are  studding 
ripped  into  two  parts.  It  is  best  to  have  these  ripped  with 
a  power  saw.  In  putting  up  the  frame,  first  toe-nail  the 
corner  uprights,  then  nail  on  these  the  lengthwise  pieces. 
Toe-nail  in  the  cross-braces  at  the  ends,  and  then  the  two 
pieces  for  the  door  frame.  Nail  in  all  the  If"  x  1J"  braces 
for  the  screen. 

After  the  frame  has  been  completed,  begin  at  either  the 
left  or  right  end  and  put  on  the  42"  screen  over  the  end. 
top,  and  opposite  end  in  one  piece.  Next  put  on  the  36" 
screen  horizontally,  and  nail  the  screen  across  as  it  will  be 
when  finished.  Do  not  nail  bottom  of  screen  on  middle 
section  until  the  lower  screen  is  stretched.  Both  layers  of 
screen  may  be  nailed  at  once  to  the  middle  section  making 
a  neater  and  better  job.  (If  the  frame  is  to  be  painted  or 
stained  this  should  be  done  before  the  screen  is  put  on.) 
Make  an  ordinary  screen  door  to  dimensions  given  in  the 
drawing,  and  put  on  screen  as  in  the  rest  of  the  problem. 
Hinge  on  the  door  and  put  on  a  lock  or  catch  as  desired. 


PLATE  £0 


PR.OOFCAGE  FOLAGRICULTULALEXHISITJ 


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BOOKS    ON     WOODWORKING 


TEXTBOOKS 

ESSENTIALS  OF  WOODWORKING 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith.  A  textbook  written  especially  for  grammar 
and  high  school  students.  The  standard  textbook  on  elementary 
woodworking.  A  clear  and  comprehensive  treatment  of  wood- 
working tools,  materials,  and  processes,  to  supplement,  but  not 
to  take  the  place  of  the  instructions  given  by  the  teacher.  The 
book  does  not  contain  a  course  of  models;  it  may  be  used  with 
any  course.  It  is  illustrated  with  photographs  and  numerous 
pen  drawings.  Price,  75  cents. 

BEGINNING  WOODWORK,  At  Home  and  In  School 

By  Clinton  S.  Van  Deusen.  A  valuable  textbook  for  rural 
schools,  by  one  who  has  made  a  special  study  of  the  manual  train- 
ing problems  in  the  country  school.  A  full  and  clear  description 
in  detail  of  the  fundamental  processes  of  elementary  benchwork 
in  wood.  This  description  is  given  through  directions  for  making 
a  few  simple,  useful  articles,  suitable  either  for  school  or  home 
problems.  The  book  contains  more  than  one  hundred  original 
sketches  and  ten  working  drawings.  Price,  $1.00. 

WORKSHOP  NOTE-BOOK — WOODWORKING 

By  George  G.  Greene.  A  small-size  textbook  and  note-book 
combined.  It  furnishes  a  few  general  and  extremely  important 
directions  about  tools  and  processes;  and  provides  space  for  ad- 
ditional notes  and  working  drawings  of  exercises  and  articles 
which  the  pupil  is  to  construct.  It  is  essentially  a  collection  of 
helps,  ideas,  hints,  suggestions,  questions,  facts,  illustrations, 
etc.,  which  have  been  prepared  by  a  practical  teacher  to  meet 
a  real  need  in  his  own  shop.  The  note-book  is  full  of  sug- 
gestions; shows  a  keen  insight  into  subject-matter  and  teaching 
methods  and  is  an  effective  teaching  tool.  Price,  19  cents. 

WOOD  PATTERN-MAKING 

By  Horace  T.  Purfield.  A  clear,  concise  treatise  on  the  funda- 
mental principles  of  pattern-making.  It  presents  the  best 
methods  of  construction  and  those  most  easily  understood  by 
the  student.  It  is  not  arranged  about  a  course  oT  problems  but 
may  be  used  with  any  course.  A  practical  text  for  high  school, 
trade  school,  technical  school  and  engineering  college  students. 


Written  by  an  experienced  pattern-maker  and  teacher  of  pattern- 
making  and  kindred  subjects.     Price,  $1.50. 

BOOHS  OF  PROBLEMS 

PROJECTS  FOR  BEGINNING  WOODWORK  AND  MECHANICAL 
DRAWING 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith.  A  work  book  for  the  use  of  students  in 
grammar  grade  classes.  It  consists  of  working  drawings  and 
working  directions.  The  projects  are  such  as  have  proven  of 
exceptional  service  where  woodworking  and  mechanical  drawing 
are  taught  in  a  thoro,  systematic  manner  in  the  seventh  and 
eighth  grades.  The  aim  has  been  to  provide  successful  rather 
than  unique  problems.  The  50  projects  in  the  book  have  been 
selected  and  organized  with  the  constant  aim  of  securing  the 
highest  educational  results.  The  book  is  especially  suited  for 
use  in  connection  with  "Essentials  of  Woodworking"  by  the  same 
author.  Price,  $1.00. 

FURNITURE  MAKING— ADVANCED   PROJECTS 
IN  WOODWORK 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith.  This  book  is  similar  to  "Projects  for  Begin- 
ning Woodwork  and  Mechanical  Drawing,"  but  is  suited  to  high 
school  needs.  It  consists  of  fifty  plates  of  problems  and  accom- 
panying notes.  It  is  essentially  a  collec*ion  of  problems  in 
furniture  making  selected  and  designed  with  reference  to  school 
use.  On  the  plate  with  each  working  drawing  is  a  good  per- 
spective sketch  of  the  completed  object.  In  draftsmanship  and 
refinement  of  design  these  problems  are  of  superior  quality. 
It  is  in  every  respect  an  excellent  collection.  Price,  95  cents. 

PROBLEMS  IN  WOOD-TURNING 

By  Fred  D.  Crawshaw.  A  textbook  on  the  science  and  art  of 
wood-turning.  Contains  25  full-page  plates  of  working  drawings 
covering  spindle,  faceplate,  and  chuck  turning.  It  gives  the 
mathematical  basis  for  the  cuts  used  in  turning.  A  helpful  dis- 
cussion of  the  principles  of  design  as  applied  to  objects  turned 
in  wood.  It  is  a  clear,  practical  and  suggestive  book  on  wood- 
turning,  and  a  valuable  textbook  for  students'  use.  Price,  50 
cents. 


Published  by   THE   MANUAL   ARTS   PRESS,  Peoria,  Illinois 


BOOKS    ON     WOODWORKING 


BOOKS  OF  PROBLEMS  (Continued) 

PROBLEMS  IN  FURNITURE  MAKING 

By  Fred  D.  Crawshaw.  The  revised  and  enlarged  edition  of 
this  well-known  book  contains  43  full-page  working  drawings  of 
articles  of  furniture.  Every  piece  shown  is  suitable  for  con- 
struction in  high  school  classes,  and  is  appropriate  and  service- 
able in  the  home.  In  addition  to  the  working  drawings,  there 
is  a  perspective  sketch  of  each  article  completed.  There  are 
36  pages  of  text  giving  notes  on  the  construction  of  each  project, 
chapters  on  the  "Design,"  and  "Construction"  of  furniture,  and 
one  on  "Finishes."  The  last  chapter  describes  15  methods  of 
wood  finishing,  all  adapted  for  use  on  furniture.  Price,  $1.00. 

FURNITURE  DESIGN  FOR  SCHOOLS  AND  SHOPS 

By  Fred  D.  Crawshaw.  A  manual  on  furniture  design.  A  book 
that  will  stimulate  and  encourage  designing  and  initiation  on  the 
part  of  the  student.  It  contains  a  collection  of  plates  showing 
perspective  drawings  of  typical  designs,  representing  particular 
types  of  furniture.  Each  perspective  is  accompanied  by  sug- 
gestions for  rearrangement  and  the  modeling  of  parts.  The  text 
discusses  and  illustrates  principles  of  design  as  applied  to  furni- 
ture. A  practical  and  helpful  book  that  should  be  in  the  hands 
of  every  teacher  of  cabinet  making  and  designing.  Price.  $1.25. 

MANUAL  TRAINING  TOYS  FOR  THE  BOYS'  WORKSHOP 

By  H.  W.  Moore.  A  popular  boys'  book  that  is  truly  educa- 
tional. The  book  contains  111  pages,  35  of  which  are  full-page 
plates  of  working  drawings  illustrating  42  projects.  All  the 
projects  are  overflowing  with  "boy"  interest,  are  well  adapted  to 
the  upper  grades  of  the  elementary  school  and  are  new  in  the 
manual  training  shop.  The  text  treats  of  tools  and  tool  processes 
and  gives  instructions  for  making  each  project.  Price,  $1.10. 

REFERENCE  BOOKS 

HANDWORK  IN  WOOD 

By  William  Noyes.  A  handbook  for  teachers  and  a  textbook 
for  normal  school  and  college  students.  The  best  reference  book 
available  for  teachers  of  woodworking.  A  comprehensive  and 
scholarly  treatise,  covering  logging,  sawmilling,  seasoning  and 


measuring,  hand  tools,  wood  fastenings,  equipment  and  care  of 
the  shop,  the  common  joints,  types  of  wood  structures,  principles 
of  joinery,  and  wood  finishing.  304  illustrations — excellent  pen 
drawings  and  many  photographs.  Price,  $2.25. 

WOOD  AND  FOREST 

By  William  Noyes.  A  companion  volume  to  "Handwork  in 
Wood,"  by  the  same  author.  Especially  adapted  as  a  reference 
book  for  teachers  of  woodworking.  Not  too  difficult  for  use  as 
a  textbook  for  normal  school  and  college  students.  Treats  of 
wood,  distribution  of  American  forests,  life  of  the  forest,  enemies 
of  the  forest,  destruction,  conservation  and  uses  of  the  forest, 
with  a  key  to  the  common  woods  by  Filibert  Roth.  Describes 
67  principal  species  of  wood  with  maps  of  the  habitat,  leaf  draw- 
ings, life  size  photographs  and  microphotographs  of  sections. 
Contains  a  general  bibliography  of  woods.  Price,  $3.50. 

CORRELATED  COURSES  IN  WOODWORK  AND  MECHANICAL 
DRAWING 

By  Ira  S.  Griffith.  This  book  meets  the  everyday  need  of  the 
teacher  of  woodworking  and  mechanical  drawing  for  reliable  in- 
formation concerning  organization  of  courses,  subject-matter, 
and  methods  of  teaching.  It  covers  classification  and  arrange- 
ment of  tool  operations,  stock  bills,  cost  of  material,  records,  shop 
conduct,  the  lesson,  maintenance,  equipment  and  lesson  outlines 
for  grammar  and  high  schools.  It  is  based  on  sound  pedagogy, 
thoro  technical  knowledge  and  successful  teaching  experience, 
and  is  the  most  complete  and  thoro  treatment  of  the  subject  of 
teaching  woodworking  ever  published.  Price,  $2.00. 


BOOKS  ON  THE  MANUAL  ARTS 

A  bibliography  listing  and  describing  over  four  hundred  books, 
including  the  standard  and  the  best  of  the  recent  publications 
in  this  field.  It  is  completely  indexed  by  subject,  author,  and 
title.  A  valuable  aid  in  selecting  textbooks,  teachers'  handoooks. 
and  reference  books  for  personal  and  school  libraries.  Mailed 
free  on  request. 


Published  by   THE    MANUAL   ARTS   PRESS,  Peoria,  Illinois 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFOENIA  LIBRARY, 
BERKELEY 

THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 

Books  not  returned  on  time  are  subject  to  a  fine  of 
50c  per  volume  after  the  third  day  overdue,  increasing 
to  $1.00  per  volume  after  the  sixth  day.  Books  not  in 
demand  may  be  renewed  if  application  is  made  before 
expiration  of  loan  period. 


JUL-  271927 


17  192T; 


.    1930 
27Feb54Y»- 


50m-8,'26 


Y.C  938^7 


369i 


